10W-30W Oil OK In Winter in Midwest?

[Jim]

I'm using high mileage oil because it has slowed the leakage of
engine. When I switched from 10W-30 to 5W-30 for the upcoming winter,
the leakeage increased noticeably. For future winters would I likely
encounter any starting problems with 10W-30 oil at say -10 to -15 F
which is usually our coldest winter temps? I have an unheated garage
although it's no doubt a few degrees warmer in there.

Before the oil leakage became a problem I was running 5W-30 year round
per the manual I know all the cars I had before were fine with a
10W-30 in the winter.

TIA
Jim

 

[Nige]

I'm using high mileage oil because it has slowed the leakage of
engine. When I switched from 10W-30 to 5W-30 for the upcoming winter,
the leakeage increased noticeably. For future winters would I likely
encounter any starting problems with 10W-30 oil at say -10 to -15 F
which is usually our coldest winter temps? I have an unheated garage
although it's no doubt a few degrees warmer in there.

Before the oil leakage became a problem I was running 5W-30 year round
per the manual I know all the cars I had before were fine with a
10W-30 in the winter.

TIA
Jim

What car?

--
Subaru WRX (The Bitch)

Range Rover Classic (Monty)

__

 

[Gilles Gour]

I'm using high mileage oil because it has slowed the leakage of
engine. When I switched from 10W-30 to 5W-30 for the upcoming winter,
the leakeage increased noticeably. For future winters would I likely
encounter any starting problems with 10W-30 oil at say -10 to -15 F
which is usually our coldest winter temps? I have an unheated garage
although it's no doubt a few degrees warmer in there.

Before the oil leakage became a problem I was running 5W-30 year round
per the manual I know all the cars I had before were fine with a
10W-30 in the winter.

TIA
Jim

-15 F is -26 C. I think that's a little too cold for 10-30. My car can
start at -30 C with 10-30 but I really dont like the sound it makes
until it reaches operation temp. The problem is not that your car will
not start, the problem is your engine will not have optimum lubrication
for a few minutes each time you start with the temp below -10 F.
No problem though if you dont keep your car for a long time.

 

[EQ Shaman]

I'm using high mileage oil because it has slowed the leakage of
engine. When I switched from 10W-30 to 5W-30 for the upcoming winter,
the leakeage increased noticeably. For future winters would I likely
encounter any starting problems with 10W-30 oil at say -10 to -15 F
which is usually our coldest winter temps? I have an unheated garage
although it's no doubt a few degrees warmer in there.

Before the oil leakage became a problem I was running 5W-30 year round
per the manual I know all the cars I had before were fine with a
10W-30 in the winter.

TIA
Jim

FWIW I run 10W-30 year round in my wrx. Do you have a block heater? That
will certainly help.

 

[Rick Courtright]

start at -30 C with 10-30 but I really dont like the sound it makes
until it reaches operation temp. The problem is not that your car will
not start, the problem is your engine will not have optimum lubrication

Gilles,

Is that with or without a block or sump heater? I'm in SoCal, so we
don't know what COLD is, but friends from the colder climes have told me
the difference between a heated and unheated engine in the morning's
pretty evident.

Rick

 

[Jim]

No block or other heater of any kind. The cold start wear issue, if
it's real, is important. Of course with global warming the car might
never see temps that cold again.

I plan to drive this car into the ground, ie until it's reliability
and/or maintenance costs dictate a replacement.

And in answer to Gilles Cour, it's a 2.2L engine in a '97 Legacy
Brighton Wagon.

Jim

 

[hippo]

Jim (frozen fingered and far removed from the 75 degree day I was enjoying

No block or other heater of any kind. The cold start wear issue, if
it's real, is important. Of course with global warming the car might
never see temps that cold again.

I plan to drive this car into the ground, ie until it's reliability
and/or maintenance costs dictate a replacement.

And in answer to Gilles Cour, it's a 2.2L engine in a '97 Legacy
Brighton Wagon.

10W30 is only recommended down to about -20C. Use 5W30 or you may run the
engine into the ground faster than you meant to. Possibly ditto if you
don't fix the leak. Cheers

 

[Jim]

As long as the oil volume never even drops one quart below full,
is there a risk to the engine innards from oil leaks?

 

[Rick Courtright]

As long as the oil volume never even drops one quart below full,
is there a risk to the engine innards from oil leaks?

I should think as long as the leak's EXTERNAL, the answer is NO. I've
run tens, even 100s, of 1000s of miles on "leakers" and just kept 'em
topped up religiously. It's messy and a waste of oil, true, but internal
damage hasn't shown itself.

OTOH, an INTERNAL leak, like from a head gasket, is a different story.
Not good, even if one keeps things topped up.

Rick

 

[John Rethorst]

For an '01 Outback (2.5 liter 4-cyl) in a climate where it rarely gets below 25
F, what's the advantage of the recommended 5W30 over 10W30?

 

[Jim]

Well there's no antifreeze in the oil nor vice versa, I've never had
to add a drop of antifreeze between biannual flushes/refills.

Jim

 

[hippo]

For an '01 Outback (2.5 liter 4-cyl) in a climate where it rarely gets below 25
F, what's the advantage of the recommended 5W30 over 10W30?

Reduced friction and less cumulative engine wear on startup and through
warmup cycle. Becomes more important the more cold/short trips you do on
average, even at warmer temps. Maybe a v.minor fuel consumption benefit
too. Cheers

 

[Rick Courtright]

Well there's no antifreeze in the oil nor vice versa, I've never had
to add a drop of antifreeze between biannual flushes/refills.

Sounds good to me! For external leaks, I keep an eye on how fast the oil
goes thru and plan repair accordingly. For example, my engine was using
a quart in 1200-1400 miles (it's also got over a third of a million hard
miles on it before anybody starts in on 'excessive' consumption!) before
developing a slight leak. The range went to a quart in 1000-1100 miles.
Not worth worrying about. OTOH, when a cam seal let go and I can
actually watch oil pumping out (a quart in 200-300 miles!) then it's
time for help immediately, even though I still keep it topped up until I
can take the time to fix it.

Rick

 

[John Rethorst]

Reduced friction and less cumulative engine wear on startup and through
warmup cycle. Becomes more important the more cold/short trips you do on
average, even at warmer temps. Maybe a v.minor fuel consumption benefit
too. Cheers

Thanks -