Gasoline for Turbo engine

So do all you USA lot hate how Aussies have easy access to 96/98 octane at
any major service station? 91/93 is our cheap stuff, available everywhere!

Bullshit like this makes me cringe. Not all Aussies are this ignorant,
only those who write on newsgroups, it seems.
 
When my wife got an US WRX we tried using 89oct to save money. The car
learnt, she drove it easy, and we didn't have any problems. Yes you
could tell it was a little down on power. But after doing this for a
while and doing the math, it wasn't any cheaper because the car got
worse MPG using the lower octane. We have found the higher the octane
the higher the MPG. 92 = around 25mpg, 94 got her up in 27ish range.
89 she was down in the 23's on average.

She uses 92 now because it's our local gas station and her car has been
modded & reflash with a 91 octane program. She's in the 25mpg range for
daily driving and making around 270hp. :)
 
k. ote. said:
That's what octane booster is for--the Gumball people use religiously to
drive their cars through the rural south.

Octane booster is a joke. Period. Toluene/Xylene are about the only
products I would ever recommend to increase octane rating. The guy was
worried about the cost of fuel, not the availability, you do realize that
"octane boosters" only raise the octane (at most) .5 to .7 octane (thats
what they mean by 5 to 7 points increase..".5"=5 points, ".7"=7points)
.....it will take an awful lot of bottles to increase 87 octane to 91 or
greater.
 
Many mid-grade fuels in the
Midwest contain ethanol which keeps the octane rating close to that of
premium, although there is a fuel economy penalty.


not to mention the heat penalty, ethanol burns hotter and doesn't have as
much energy being produced when it burn as regular petro does.
 
Ragnar said:
Manual recommends 91, not 93. You're paying extra for no real benefit.

I would recommend staying with the recommended fuel for your WRX. 91
octane where I live is 10 cents more than 87 octane per gallon. For a
15 gallon tank thats all of $1.50 per tank. Don't buy the 20 ounce Coke
inside the gas station and you're even.



That would be nice, but my choices are 87, 89, and 93 where I live. I
suppose I could mix the 89 and 93 in 50-50 ratio.
 
It will knock like a bugger and you can do real damage to the car.
Detonation is a big issue in turbocharged engines. The boost pressure
comes up with RPM. At 75 MPH, I would bet you have significant boost
pressure.

I am curious though. If you can't afford the extra couple of dollars
for the correct fuel, why would you by a turbocharged car?


Heh, it's not about whether I CAN afford it... it's just about whether I
can save some $$$ on a long trip where the extra boost will hardly make any
difference to my driving experience.

I'm starting to think the answer is no, unless I can find a way to
temporarily (and reversibly) disconnect the Turbo.
 
Nobody has asked you the requisite questions, to which your answers
to your questions can only be guessed at.

1) Where are you located? I couldn't figure that out since your
email address is not valid, and you used a web service to post.

2) Which car do you own?

1) Wisconsin, USA. Will be travelling to other regions of the USA.
2) Baja Turbo
A knock sensor is supposed to detect the **onset** of knock, before
any damage occurs, and retards the timing (ignites each spark
earlier). Toyota sells their V6s as fine with regular, but better with
premium. Others sell them as "please use premium", but "it won't kill
the engine" if you use regular.

The Subaru manual implies the last. I wonder if that's just legal CYA.
When you say cruise control at 75, it sounds like you mean 75 MPH
(i.e. United States), so I'm thinking you're in the US. When
cruising, premium fuel isn't going to do squat.

My point exactly. That's the whole purpose behind the question. I'll be
cruising at 75mph for long distances, so why waste the money if I don't
have to?
However - if the knock sensor malfunctions, you might damage the
engine.

Hmm... how often does this happen?
 
(e-mail address removed) (Vince C) wrote in 3271.bay.webtv.net:
When my wife got an US WRX we tried using 89oct to save money. The car
learnt, she drove it easy, and we didn't have any problems. Yes you
could tell it was a little down on power. But after doing this for a
while and doing the math, it wasn't any cheaper because the car got
worse MPG using the lower octane. We have found the higher the octane
the higher the MPG. 92 = around 25mpg, 94 got her up in 27ish range.
89 she was down in the 23's on average.

Was this mostly city driving?
 
Tom said:
That would be nice, but my choices are 87, 89, and 93 where I live. I
suppose I could mix the 89 and 93 in 50-50 ratio.

Sorry - that's what threw me for a loop. I've never heard of 93
octane (R+M)/2 as a commonly-available "premium" unleaded. Where
I live it's typically 87, 89, and 91 (used to be 92). If I bought
a WRX STi (the only Subaru car at this time that NEEDS 93+ octane
unleaded) I wouldn't know where to find the correct fuel.

As stated, your actual requirement is for 91 octane (R+M)/2 unleaded
gasoline. More likely than not, a 50/50 mix of 93 and 89 octane
should blend to something reasonably close to 91 octane, but there
could be some strange effects where you might not hit your target.
 
Tom said:
1) Wisconsin, USA. Will be travelling to other regions of the USA.

Then you've probably got other problems (like cold weather) to deal
with. If you're travelling, then you're not likely to find that 93
octane that's readily available.
2) Baja Turbo

91 (R+M)/2 octane requirement.
The Subaru manual implies the last. I wonder if that's just legal CYA.

I think they're reliable enough that some manufacturers (like Toyota)
are willing to risk that they won't fail during the warranty period.
However, oxygen sensors fail. Plug wires fail. If it were my car, I
wouldn't risk it.
My point exactly. That's the whole purpose behind the question. I'll be
cruising at 75mph for long distances, so why waste the money if I don't
have to?

75 cruising on flat land in 5th gear would probably mean a fairly
light boost if at all. It won't knock. Going up hills will increase
the likelihood, especially if you downshift. If you inadvertantly
punch it, who knows what might happen? The big worry shouldn't be what
happens most of the time, but what's your worst case scenario?
Hmm... how often does this happen?

Like I said - I wouldn't personally risk it. At the very least, use
a mid-grade (89). A single bad case of detonation could trash your
engine and might not be covered under warranty. With the Toyota
knock sensor, perhaps they use a less agressive system?

One thing to consider. My observations is that regardless of overall
fuel price at the pump, the price difference between grades is
typically 10 cents, although a few retailers differ. With higher
overall prices premium is only marginally more expensive now.

One more thing to consider. Octane requirements at high altitude
are typically reduced because of the thin air; pump octane is lower.
If you're travelling through Denver or Salt Lake City, the fuel sold
there may not be adequate once you get closer to sea level.
 
My point exactly. That's the whole purpose behind the question. I'll be
cruising at 75mph for long distances, so why waste the money if I don't
have to?

Well, my experience with my turbo Audi A4 is that my mileage drops if
I don't use premium fuel, and I noticed this significantly when doing
my 2x and 3x weekly 140-mile commutes from Rochester to Buffalo in
Western New York. Premium fuel in a turbo engine matters even at
cruising speeds. Sometimes to save $$ I would do a 50/50 mix of 89
and 93 (can't always find 91 where I am), and that would be ok, but
it's a pain in the butt to do.
 
Why not just use what the Subaru engineers require and enjoy the drive
instead of always wondering if I'm going to do my engine harm. Use
good gas of the correct octane and recoup the $ by a, driving 70
instead of 75 b. skip buying a 6 pack of beer or soda, c skip that
pack of smokes or Twinkies. You have lot of choices besides being
cheap to your 28,000 dollar vehicle. Eddie
 
Tom said:
Heh, it's not about whether I CAN afford it... it's just about whether I
can save some $$$ on a long trip where the extra boost will hardly make any
difference to my driving experience.

I'm starting to think the answer is no, unless I can find a way to
temporarily (and reversibly) disconnect the Turbo.

You could install a manual BOV that you can set the boost pressure. If you
set the boost pressure at 1 or 2 PSI, you won't have to worry about
detonation and you can use regular. However, my guess is that the cost of
the BOV will exceed any savings you could hope to get by using regular, and
because the engine is designed to be turbocharged, it has a lower
compression ratio than a comparably-sized N/A engine; which means it will
likely be gutless at any speed.
 
You could install a manual BOV that you can set the boost pressure. If you
set the boost pressure at 1 or 2 PSI, you won't have to worry about
detonation and you can use regular.

You might dial your boost controller to "show" 1
or 2 PSI, but it won't mean anything, since the
wastegate spring pressure alone averages 7-8 PSI.

If you go below the mfr specs, you'll have to
worry about detonation. "Pay now or pay later,"
there's smarter ways to save money.
 
Bullshit like this makes me cringe. Not all Aussies are this ignorant,
only those who write on newsgroups, it seems.

The only thing worse than someone ignorant, is a know-it-all who won't share
their 'knowledge'.

BTW it was a light hearted comment, get over it and switch to decaf.

Feel free to enlighten all us ignorant low-lifes if you can see it in your
heart to type something worthy of reading........
 
The said:
The only thing worse than someone ignorant, is a know-it-all who
won't share their 'knowledge'.

BTW it was a light hearted comment, get over it and switch to decaf.

I'm not angry. My "bullshit" comment was the all-purpose BS meter
response.
Feel free to enlighten all us ignorant low-lifes if you can see it
in your heart to type something worthy of reading........

I've posted it several times in this thread, but one more time won't
hurt. I'm guessing part of his frustration is that the explanation
has already been given.

Pump octane in Australia: RON, or Research Octane Number.

Pump octane in the US/Canada: (R+M)/2, also known as AKI (anti-
Knock Index), which is the average of the RON and MON (Motor
Octane Number).

In general, a US 87 (R+M)/2 octane "regular unleaded" fuel should
be equivalent to 91 RON octane. A US 91 (R+M)/2 octane "premium
unleaded" fuel should be equivalent to 96 RON octane.

<http://www.shell.ca/code/motoring/encyclopedia/gasolines/octane.html>

"Technically there are three different "octane numbers" associated
with every gasoline. The Research Octane Number, or RON, is measured
under fairly easy test conditions. The Motor Octane Number, or MON,
is a tougher test measured at higher engine speed and temperature.

The value that relates most closely to actual driving conditions
is the average of these two values: Road Octane Number = (RON + MON)/2.
This Road Octane value is the one referred to in Shell stations:
Shell Bronze gasoline has an octane rating of 87, Shell Silver is 89
and Shell Optimax Gold is 91.

Occasionally, less scrupulous Canadian gasoline outlets will use
the confusion of these different octane measurements to exaggerate
their octane rating claims, by advertising their fuel's Research
Octane Number - which will be higher than the Road Octane Number.
It is also a common practice in many European countries to advertise
the Research Octane Number on their pumps, so you may see
unexpectedly high octane values when travelling abroad. In Canada,
motorists should always be sure that the octane number a vendor
advertises is its Road Octane value, not its RON."
 
Occasionally, less scrupulous Canadian gasoline outlets will use
the confusion of these different octane measurements to exaggerate
their octane rating claims, by advertising their fuel's Research
Octane Number - which will be higher than the Road Octane Number.
It is also a common practice in many European countries to advertise
the Research Octane Number on their pumps, so you may see
unexpectedly high octane values when travelling abroad. In Canada,
motorists should always be sure that the octane number a vendor
advertises is its Road Octane value, not its RON."
I would love for you to show us evidence of that! In Canada, only the AKI
may be published unless it is clearly marked as an RON octane number. It is
OK not to put any octane numbers on the pump, but in all of my travels all
across Canada, I have only ever seen an AKI number indicated on the pump for
octane; they are 87, 89, 91, and 94.
 
JD said:
I would love for you to show us evidence of that! In Canada, only
the AKI may be published unless it is clearly marked as an RON
octane number. It is OK not to put any octane numbers on the pump,
but in all of my travels all across Canada, I have only ever seen
an AKI number indicated on the pump for octane; they are 87, 89, 91,
and 94.

Hey - I only pasted it from the Shell Canada website. That being
said, they did couch it by saying that less scrupulous outlets
advertise those exaggerated claims, but never said they do so at
the pump. They specifically mentioned that RON is commonly
advertised at European pumps (which seems to be the norm).
 
The only thing worse than someone ignorant, is a know-it-all who won't share
their 'knowledge'.

BTW it was a light hearted comment, get over it and switch to decaf.

It was a frivolous untruth that was supposed to be funny but missed
because of the ignorance on which it was based. You can bluff and
bluster all you like but that's the truth.

D
 
y_p_w said:
Hey - I only pasted it from the Shell Canada website. That being
said, they did couch it by saying that less scrupulous outlets
advertise those exaggerated claims, but never said they do so at
the pump. They specifically mentioned that RON is commonly
advertised at European pumps (which seems to be the norm).
It is the norm in Europe. However, any 'unscrupulous outlet' that did that
in Canada and did not specifically note that it was RON and not AKI would
find themselves in trouble with both the distributor and the BBB. So, I
don't believe it at all and, having driven across Canada six times, I have
never seen anything on the pump except AKI.
 

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