AJay said:
I plan on using Prestone. Since the block is aluminum can I use the
regular Prestone or should I use the Prestone Prime?
Any tips on how to avoid air pockets?
Hi,
Regular everyday Prestone, mixed 50-50 with DISTILLED water, has kept
all MY cars happy for the last million miles or so. You can buy the
pre-mix if you like to pay too much for water. I believe they use
"de-ionized" water in the mix: it's probably "good enough" if perhaps
quite as "clean" as distilled. Although Prestone claims their "new"
formula mixes w/ anything out there, I still think it's probably a good
idea NOT to mix it w/ Dex-cool type products (that WAS a recipe for
trouble earlier on in development of the "extended life" coolants.)
Unless someone's played w/ what they put in your Forester, that part
should be a non-issue.
Air pockets? Ooh, boy. Check to see if your model has an air bleed valve
(probably on or near the radiator near where the upper hose comes in?
Mine doesn't have one, so let's rely on someone to point us in the right
direction here.) That will help.
What I've found helpful w/ my "no air bleed" Subie (learned on a Toyota
w/ one of their engines that was also famous for air pockets) is to fill
the system as far as possible thru the point where the thermostat's
mounted (t-stat is out at this time.) Then install the t-stat (OEM,
BTW!) and continue filling "normally" thru the radiator until there's 2
to 3 inches of space left. With the front of the car higher than the
rear (jacked up or on blocks if required), I turn the engine on w/ the
radiator cap off. I have the heater on "full" at this time, too: some
heaters "shut off" the coolant flow when off (Toyota style), others are
constant flow (Subie style) but it helps either way IME--you want to
make sure the heater core gets filled, which you'll know by heat coming
out.
Run the car at idle until the t-stat opens and the temp's running
"normal." I'll then run it up to a faster idle (around 2000 rpm or so)
and run it a minute or so before dropping it back down. This helps get
coolant circulated thru the heating system in case you've got "cold"
coming out of the heater. Somewhere in here, you'll probably experience
a big "burp" w/ coolant spilling out of the radiator. (That's common: be
prepared to hose down the driveway so the neighborhood dogs and cats
aren't tempted to taste it!) The temp gauge may also rise above normal,
then take a big drop. Don't let it get to the red if it looks like it's
headed that way. Shut the engine down and let it cool, w/ the rad cap
still off. As it cools, the level of coolant in the radiator will
probably drop considerably. Refill to the 2-3 inch "low" level and
repeat the warm up drill. Shut it off and let it cool again (here it's
helpful to let it sit overnight if you have the luxury of time.) When
it's completely cool, refill the radiator to within about a half inch of
the opening, install the cap, and make sure the overflow tank is filled
to "full." Watch carefully the next couple of days of driving and refill
the overflow tank as required (it should need SOME topping off, as you
didn't fill the radiator completely!)
There MAY still be a little air in the system that will take some miles
to work its way out, but this drill has cut WAY back on my "runs erratic
temps after a coolant change" (translation: air pockets) problems.
Good luck,
Rick