Update on dead 95 Legacy

[Louise the ferretlady]

Hello all!
I posted a while agon about a 95 Legacy L Wagon that just quit.
I got a lot of good advice here, and we checked every sensor, gadget
and thingies possible. Today we finally checked the engine
compression. 80 psi. Book says should be 156-184. Not good. Took the
side covers off the front cover on the engine. Timing belt completely
busted. Shredded. (Sight) Here comes my next question!
How do I know my engine is not ruined now?
Thanks for any input.

Louise the ferretlady

 

[johninKY]

It's not being the 95 version. Told you it was the timing belt. Glad yo
finally got around to checking

 

[Dominic Richens]

I posted a while agon about a 95 Legacy L Wagon that just quit.
I got a lot of good advice here, and we checked every sensor, gadget
and thingies possible. Today we finally checked the engine
compression. 80 psi. Book says should be 156-184. Not good. Took the
side covers off the front cover on the engine. Timing belt completely
busted. Shredded. (Sight) Here comes my next question!
How do I know my engine is not ruined now?
Thanks for any input.

According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine, all EJXX engines
upto and including the 1996 models were non-interference engines, so it
looks like your engine is fine - you should be able to pop in a new 40$
timing belt and be off.

The fact that you were actually able to do a compression test confirms
this - on an interference engine the engine would be completely jammed up.

Louise the ferretlady

Dominic the beejock

 

[Louise the ferretlady]

Thank you for reassuring me on the fate of my engine!
A damaged motor would have spelled the end of the line for this
Subaru.
Now, because the belt broke, I have ne reference point to align the
various pulleys at the front.
And the reason the belt broke is one of the pulleys bearing lost it's
cover and seazed up tight, shearing a bunch of teeth off the belt and
then it broke. All the little bearings inside are differrent colors
now. Must have been some kind of heat!
I called Subaru. and they want a bunch of money for the 4 pulleys, but
we're thinking we could just punch the bearings out and replace them.
Input, anyone?

 

[Louise the ferretlady]

By the way, the new timing belt cost me 92$. Still not so bad
considering we're doing the repair ourselves.

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

Thank you for reassuring me on the fate of my engine!
A damaged motor would have spelled the end of the line for this
Subaru.
Now, because the belt broke, I have ne reference point to align the
various pulleys at the front.
And the reason the belt broke is one of the pulleys bearing lost it's
cover and seazed up tight, shearing a bunch of teeth off the belt and
then it broke. All the little bearings inside are differrent colors
now. Must have been some kind of heat!
I called Subaru. and they want a bunch of money for the 4 pulleys, but
we're thinking we could just punch the bearings out and replace them.
Input, anyone?

You could price the items you need at an online dealer. The one I have
used is www.subarugenuineparts.com Try sending an email to Jamie through
the website as parts other than accessories can be hard to locate at the
website. BTW - Jamie races and has her own website (www.subiegal.com)

good luck

Carl

 

[johninKY]

Don't know if this link will work. If it doesn't be advised everyone doin
the timing belt the first time just about always use the wrong timing mar
on the crankshaft pulley. The mark that seems obvious is not the one t
use.

(The link didn't paste.

 

[Bob Noble]

Most bearings can be punched out and replaced fairly easily.
There are usually numbers stamped on the bearings that can be used to cross
reference by bearing stores, or they can just measure them and give you one
that fits.
I usually pop the little side seal on sealed ones and put a bit more lube in
there then what usually comes with them.
The seal just snaps back in with a little pressure.

Bob Noble
http://www.sonic.net/bnoble

 

[Rick Courtright]

Now, because the belt broke, I have ne reference point to align the
various pulleys at the front.
And the reason the belt broke is one of the pulleys bearing lost it's
cover and seazed up tight, shearing a bunch of teeth off the belt and

Hi,

This is a good time to buy a repair manual if you don't have
one--Chilton's and Haynes should both have one for your car. I find
Chilton's better for the tech info, Haynes better for the pictures. As
mentioned, many people use the wrong timing mark, and nothing works when
the job's done. Rather disappointing!

Hope you bought the OEM belt(s) (sounds like it, from the price.) I'm
not the only person who's experienced poor life w/ aftermarket belts (if
using aftermarket belts, it's not bad practice to cut your change
interval by 8-10k miles.) On the pulleys, you can pay dealer price, or
get aftermarket pulleys for probably half the price. Adding a bit of
grease to the bearings is a good idea--I've even "limped" some along
quite a while as it were using that trick. How often to change the
pulleys is debateable: some say you should do it at every t-belt change,
others say you should check 'em for smooth operation (no noise, gritty
feeling, etc.) at each change and replace only when they feel suspect. I
think that's up to you--my experience is they should be good for at
least two belt change intervals if the car's just driven on pavement.
Dirty environments will shorten the life, of course.

I've never changed just the bearings, but if you've got the equipment
and a bearing supply house close, that's a possibility. Just be sure to
inspect the pulley for other wear before replacing only the bearing.
Excessive wear or roughness on the contact face may affect belt life.

While you're in there that far, be sure to replace all the oil seals on
the front of the engine (cam seals, crank seal, front seal and rear
o-rings on the oil pump) and consider replacing the water pump, too.
Doing all this will cost some money now, but could save a lot of work
later.

Good luck!

Rick

 

[johninKY]

http://www.endwrench.com/images/pdfs...eOverWin01.pdf

 

[Louise the ferretlady]

http://www.endwrench.com/images/pdfs...eOverWin01.pdf

The link doesn't work and the site requires a paid subscription...

 

[Louise the ferretlady]

Hi,

This is a good time to buy a repair manual if you don't have
one--Chilton's and Haynes should both have one for your car. I find
Chilton's better for the tech info, Haynes better for the pictures. As
mentioned, many people use the wrong timing mark, and nothing works when
the job's done. Rather disappointing!

(snip)
I have the Haynes manual. We changed two of the bearings in the
pulleys, another is quite fine, but I think I'll have to buy at least
one entire one, as the bearing is not available in the right size and
there is a noise when you spin it. Please keep the input coming, it's
helping! We'll be extra careful with the mark on the crankshaft pulley.

 

[Uncle Ben]

The link doesn't work and the site requires a paid subscription...

Try

http://www.endwrench.com

You'll have to look around a bit for what you want.
No paid subscription is needed. That's just a speculation from the
error system.

Uncle Ben

 

[Louise the ferretlady]

Try

http://www.endwrench.com

You'll have to look around a  bit for what you want.
No paid subscription is needed.  That's just a speculation from the
error system.

Uncle Ben

Found it! And with nice illustrations too. Should be fairly easy now.
Thank you!

Louise the ferretlady

 

[Louise the ferretlady]

Yay!
It works! It works!
Started on the first keystroke and purring like a kitten.
I have my Subaru back!
Thank you to all who sent advice. We could not have done it without
you!

Louise the ferretlady