To replace transfer clutch or not...

[cdmsubaru]

When starting my 1996 Subaru Legacy Wagon L, the "AT Oil Temp" light
flashes 10 to 15 times and then stops. The dealer says the car needs a new
transfer clutch ($1400) because my viscous coupling is binding. Shouldn't I
have other symptoms if something this serious (and expensive) needs
replacing? The car runs greats, has had all recommended maintenance, and
has 124,000 miles. Should I fix now or wait and watch?

 

[Edward Hayes]

I would get a second opinion. Usually a binding transfer clutch will cause
wheel binding in slow turns or other such symptoms. An AT has a variable
transfer clutch pack and a manual trans has a viscous center differential.

 

[cdmsubaru]

Thanks for the advice. Regarding your last sentence: "An AT has a variable
transfer clutch pack and a manual trans. has a viscous center
differential." So this means an automatic transmission would have the
transfer clutch but it wouldn't also have viscous coupling. My original
statement that the transfer clutch is causing the viscous coupling to bind
probably didn't make sense.

 

[Danny Russell]

Thanks for the advice. Regarding your last sentence: "An AT has a variable
transfer clutch pack and a manual trans. has a viscous center
differential." So this means an automatic transmission would have the
transfer clutch but it wouldn't also have viscous coupling. My original
statement that the transfer clutch is causing the viscous coupling to bind
probably didn't make sense.

This may not help a whole lot, but there's a "duty C solenoid" which is known to go bad. It
controls the hydraulic pressure which in turn uncouples the clutch. -Danny

 

[ceraboy]

When starting my 1996 Subaru Legacy Wagon L, the "AT Oil Temp" light
flashes 10 to 15 times and then stops. The dealer says the car needs
a new transfer clutch ($1400) because my viscous coupling is binding.
Shouldn't I have other symptoms if something this serious (and
expensive) needs replacing? The car runs greats, has had all
recommended maintenance, and has 124,000 miles. Should I fix now or
wait and watch?

The manual transmission has a viscous coupled center differntial giving
50/50 power to the front and back wheels (capable of 80/20 or 20/80
depending on tire slippage). The automatic transmission uses a wet
transfer clutch which supplies 90% power to front wheels and 10% to the
back under normal conditions (this can change from 90/10 or 10/90 given
certain conditions). Over time the transfer clutch will wear out and
fail to engage when front wheel slippage is detected (rendering your
AWD vehicle a mere front wheel drive), but binding doesnt sound right.
If the transfer clutch is going typically the rear wheels will be slow
to engage when the tranny is cold, but may work fine when warm. Many
times the dealer techs are parts replacers, and not to good with
troubleshooting. There is a sensor on the tranny that controls and
monitors the transfer clutch, which could be the problem. You should
start by changing the fluid/filter and see if that helps.

 

[ashtons]

So did you replace it? I'm faced with the same thing in my 97 Outback.
They told me it was probably the solenoid, to the tune of $250 to replace
that. This morning I brought it in to do the work, and when they got it
taken apart they said the whole transfer clutch needs to be replaced. I
haven't heard the estimate yet, but it ain't gonna be pretty.

Is this a must-fix?

 

[ceraboy]

So did you replace it? I'm faced with the same thing in my 97
Outback. They told me it was probably the solenoid, to the tune of
$250 to replace that. This morning I brought it in to do the work,
and when they got it taken apart they said the whole transfer clutch
needs to be replaced. I haven't heard the estimate yet, but it ain't
gonna be pretty.

Is this a must-fix?

You could permanently disable the transfer clutch and hence the all
wheel drive, but then again why have a subie if its not all wheel drive.