Tire wear

[bd]

Hi,

I have 2 different opinions about condition of tires on my 2001 Forester:

1. Dealer says that I still have 7/32th left (they measured ~3 months ago).
2. Tire shop says that I only have 4/32th left (they measured now) - and
advises to replace the tires now.

The tires are Goodyear Assurance Comforthread (with expected lifetime of
80,000 miles). Were installed in 2006, have 43,000 miles on them.
I tried measuring thread wear myself (using penny and quarter coins - as per
TireRack's description) - the tread wear seems non-uniform: threads that are
closer to the center of tires have > 4/32th left but threads closer to sides
of tires have about 4/32th.

I'll be driving in snow and ice - should I replace the tires now?

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Boris

 

[Asbjørn]

Hi,

I have 2 different opinions about condition of tires on my 2001 Forester:

1. Dealer says that I still have 7/32th left (they measured ~3 months
ago).
2. Tire shop says that I only have 4/32th left (they measured now) - and
advises to replace the tires now.

The tires are Goodyear Assurance Comforthread (with expected lifetime of
80,000 miles). Were installed in 2006, have 43,000 miles on them.
I tried measuring thread wear myself (using penny and quarter coins - as
per TireRack's description) - the tread wear seems non-uniform: threads
that are closer to the center of tires have > 4/32th left but threads
closer to sides of tires have about 4/32th.

I'll be driving in snow and ice - should I replace the tires now?

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Boris

For Norwegian conditions snow (and rain), Yes.
AU

 

[Frank]

Hi,

I have 2 different opinions about condition of tires on my 2001 Forester:

1. Dealer says that I still have 7/32th left (they measured ~3 months ago).
2. Tire shop says that I only have 4/32th left (they measured now) - and
advises to replace the tires now.

The tires are Goodyear Assurance Comforthread (with expected lifetime of
80,000 miles). Were installed in 2006, have 43,000 miles on them.
I tried measuring thread wear myself (using penny and quarter coins - as
per TireRack's description) - the tread wear seems non-uniform: threads
that are closer to the center of tires have > 4/32th left but threads
closer to sides of tires have about 4/32th.

I'll be driving in snow and ice - should I replace the tires now?

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Boris

With winter driving coming up, I'd replace them. Not sure whether it is
worth trying to cash in warranty as while you might have only gotten
expected mileage, they may prorate based on tread wear.

I've never seen uniform wear on my Forester's tires. Bought new ones
last year and will stick to rotation schedule, maintain inflation and
check alignment every other rotation.

 

[basia]

Hi,

I have 2 different opinions about condition of tires on my 2001 Forester:

1. Dealer says that I still have 7/32th left (they measured ~3 months ago).
2. Tire shop says that I only have 4/32th left (they measured now) - and
advises to replace the tires now.

The tires are Goodyear Assurance Comforthread (with expected lifetime of
80,000 miles). Were installed in 2006, have 43,000 miles on them.
I tried measuring thread wear myself (using penny and quarter coins - as per
TireRack's description) - the tread wear seems non-uniform: threads that are
closer to the center of tires have > 4/32th left but threads closer to sides
of tires have about 4/32th.

I'll be driving in snow and ice - should I replace the tires now?

Yes replace them, ...but if you want to save a bit money,
I think you could probably wait. Until you see snow and ice
actually on the road (you never know what kind of winter will
be coming, maybe very mild?), and since relatively good thread
is still there.

If you have some exceptional deal/coupon/rebate etc., on
specific tires that you want then don't wait. Same if it is a
hassle in your location to have new tires purchased and installed.

That's my 3 cents, Boris.

Basia

 

[basia]

Yes replace them, ...but if you want to save a bit money,
I think you could probably wait.  Until you see snow and ice
actually on the road (you never know what kind of winter will
 be coming, maybe very mild?), and since relatively good thread
is still there.

If you have some exceptional deal/coupon/rebate etc., on
specific tires that you want then don't wait.  Same if it is a
hassle in your location to have new tires purchased and installed.

In other words, Boris, there are no shortages of tires in
America )) and purchasing and installing new ones takes
only about an hour, on average, so very little need to plan
much ahead. One can afford to behave 100% adaptively,
as current conditions dictate.

That is my take on it!

By the way, last week I replaced my Michelin Pilot Exalto's
on Impreza L 2000 Coupe with Michelin Primacy MXV4.
I got only 37,000 miles out of the excellent Exalto's, and had
about 3/32 thread left (similarly to you somewhat more thread
left in the middle of tire). The Primacy's are almost as good
as the Exalto's, but quieter. Both get my recommendation.

My driving is mostly high speed, highway, frequently over
mountainous passes I-80 (Donners, Reno to San Francisco),
often encountering wet, or slush conditions.

Basia

 

[Cameo]

I tried measuring thread wear myself (using penny and quarter coins -
as per TireRack's description) - the tread wear seems non-uniform:
threads that are closer to the center of tires have > 4/32th left but
threads closer to sides of tires have about 4/32th.

That kind of wear is usually indicative of driving with underinflated
tires, or bad wheel alignment. Does this ring any bell?

 

[basia]

That kind of wear is usually indicative of driving with underinflated
tires, or bad wheel alignment. Does this ring any bell?

In my case, for somewhat more wear on the sides I blame high
speed aggressive cornering. For shorter tire life in general I
blame my driving fast on uphills.

The reason I buy good performance tires, is to have enogh grip
so I can go through sharp mountainous highway turns without
slowing down much :-O I almost always negotiate uphills as fast
as I can, which frequently if not always means strongly accelerating
uphill - its a terrible habit for fuel efficiency, and tire wear, but
fantastic for saving time, and avoiding economizing on speeding
ticket fines. Have yet to see a highway cop position himself on
any incline. I travel over the Sierras, Reno-SF-Reno regularly.

Basia

 

[Cameo]

In my case, for somewhat more wear on the sides I blame high
speed aggressive cornering. For shorter tire life in general I
blame my driving fast on uphills.

Barb, you must be a wild one! If you keep it up like that, you might end
up in a ravine somewhere. I would hate to see your name in the
obituaries.

 

[basia]

Barb, you must be a wild one! If you keep it up like that, you might end
up in a ravine somewhere. I would hate to see your name in the
obituaries.

It's not as bad as it sounds.

I do it very methodically, and as responsibly as I can.
That means taking excellent care of car mechanicals,
and pushing it only when the traffic and weather conditions
permit. I also know the road very well.

Puts some added stress on the car, especially the
accelerating uphill part, ...but I think it can be a safer
driving style than what 99% of people do which is speed
up on down hills where safe braking distance can quickly
become problematic.

Basia

 

[bd]

Thanks a lot for all replies/advice. I had the tires replaced today - tire
shop gave me $50 discount per tire (they said that my old tires didn't meet
manufacturer's claim of life-expectancy) - so all four of them cost me $405
(including labor, taxes, everything).
I was hesitant at first because the car is 10 years old - but even if I buy
a new car soon, it will be easier to sell the old one having new tires.
Most likely, I won't buy another Subaru - my 2001 Forester has 5.5" ground
clearance but the new Forester model has it at ~9" - this is more suitable
for Australian outback than for Bay Area driving (I want a car with good
handling that can drive around obstacles in case of an emergency and isn't
prone to rollover).

Boris

 

[Cameo]

Thanks a lot for all replies/advice. I had the tires replaced today -
tire shop gave me $50 discount per tire (they said that my old tires
didn't meet manufacturer's claim of life-expectancy) - so all four of
them cost me $405 (including labor, taxes, everything).
I was hesitant at first because the car is 10 years old - but even if
I buy a new car soon, it will be easier to sell the old one having new
tires.
Most likely, I won't buy another Subaru - my 2001 Forester has 5.5"
ground clearance but the new Forester model has it at ~9" - this is
more suitable for Australian outback than for Bay Area driving (I want
a car with good handling that can drive around obstacles in case of an
emergency and isn't prone to rollover).

So why not buy a Legacy or Impreza?

 

[bd]

"Cameo" wrote in message

Thanks a lot for all replies/advice. I had the tires replaced today - tire
shop gave me $50 discount per tire (they said that my old tires didn't
meet manufacturer's claim of life-expectancy) - so all four of them cost
me $405 (including labor, taxes, everything).
I was hesitant at first because the car is 10 years old - but even if I
buy a new car soon, it will be easier to sell the old one having new
tires.
Most likely, I won't buy another Subaru - my 2001 Forester has 5.5" ground
clearance but the new Forester model has it at ~9" - this is more suitable
for Australian outback than for Bay Area driving (I want a car with good
handling that can drive around obstacles in case of an emergency and isn't
prone to rollover).

So why not buy a Legacy or Impreza?

If there was Legacy wagon in US, I would have bought it. Impreza is a bit
too small for me.

Boris

 

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In other words, Boris, there are no shortages of tires in
America )) and purchasing and installing new ones takes
only about an hour, on average, so very little need to plan

That is if you know where the tire model that you want is sold.
which bring us to

much ahead.  One can afford to behave 100% adaptively,
as current conditions dictate.

which means you have to get what the tire dealer offers you
which limits you to what they have in stock which in turn
typically means you'd get
1. not what you wanted
2. pay more (on average)

that's my experience in the bang per buck tire department