Subaru Legacy problem fixed...

A

Al A.

Hi all,
In the off chance that anybody cares, here is what happened with the
Subaru cold start problem that I posted about here a few days back.

After having the repair place attempt to read the fault code with
their high tech snap-on scanner and getting nothing and changing the
coolant temp sensor, the problem persisted. Still not starting cold, rad
fans running, and constant "check engine" light. After pleading here for
help, and getting a few good links to Subaru code extracting procedures,
I braved the cold yesterday and crawled under the dash to locate the
test connectors. According to the procedure, there are 2 wires that you
hook together, then turn on the key to get the computer to flash the
codes to you. I found and connected them, turned on the key and waited.
There was lots of odd relay clicking sounds, for a few seconds, check
engine light stayed on, no codes flashed to me, and then the radiator
fans shut off! Then the clicking stopped. Feeling bold that something
had changed, I turned the key. Engine cranked for a few seconds, fired
and purred!! That after a day and a half of sitting out in below
freezing weather. Check engine light went out, fans stayed off and the
idle dropped as it warmed up. Engine warmed up, rad fans cycled as they
should. Back to normal, YEAH!

Feeling a bit reserved, I did not deem it offically fixed until this
morning, after a series of cold starts last night and this morning.
Every one perfect.

Not sure excatly what happened, but am blaming the temp sensor, and
crediting a test-mode-reset of the computer as the final step. That last
part is likely BS, but I am not above making stuff up to convince my
daughter that I am brilliant (even in the face of evidance to the contrary).

Carl and Michael, thanks again for your responses and ideas.
Much appreciated!

AL A.
 
Al said:
Hi all,
In the off chance that anybody cares, here is what happened with the
Subaru cold start problem that I posted about here a few days back.

After having the repair place attempt to read the fault code with their
high tech snap-on scanner and getting nothing and changing the coolant
temp sensor, the problem persisted. Still not starting cold, rad fans
running, and constant "check engine" light. After pleading here for
help, and getting a few good links to Subaru code extracting procedures,
I braved the cold yesterday and crawled under the dash to locate the
test connectors. According to the procedure, there are 2 wires that you
hook together, then turn on the key to get the computer to flash the
codes to you. I found and connected them, turned on the key and waited.
There was lots of odd relay clicking sounds, for a few seconds, check
engine light stayed on, no codes flashed to me, and then the radiator
fans shut off! Then the clicking stopped. Feeling bold that something
had changed, I turned the key. Engine cranked for a few seconds, fired
and purred!! That after a day and a half of sitting out in below
freezing weather. Check engine light went out, fans stayed off and the
idle dropped as it warmed up. Engine warmed up, rad fans cycled as they
should. Back to normal, YEAH!

Feeling a bit reserved, I did not deem it offically fixed until this
morning, after a series of cold starts last night and this morning.
Every one perfect.

Not sure excatly what happened, but am blaming the temp sensor, and
crediting a test-mode-reset of the computer as the final step. That last
part is likely BS, but I am not above making stuff up to convince my
daughter that I am brilliant (even in the face of evidance to the
contrary).

Carl and Michael, thanks again for your responses and ideas.
Much appreciated!

AL A.
Seems its POSSIBLE your ECU tried to compensate for one or more marginal
sensors and was never cleared after the sensors were replaced. I dunno.
glad its fixed and hope it stays that way!

Carl
1 Lucky Texan
 
Al A. said:
Hi all,
In the off chance that anybody cares, here is what happened with the
Subaru cold start problem that I posted about here a few days back.

After having the repair place attempt to read the fault code with their
high tech snap-on scanner and getting nothing and changing the coolant
temp sensor, the problem persisted. Still not starting cold, rad fans
running, and constant "check engine" light. After pleading here for help,
and getting a few good links to Subaru code extracting procedures,
I braved the cold yesterday and crawled under the dash to locate the test
connectors. According to the procedure, there are 2 wires that you hook
together, then turn on the key to get the computer to flash the codes to
you. I found and connected them, turned on the key and waited. There was
lots of odd relay clicking sounds, for a few seconds, check engine light
stayed on, no codes flashed to me, and then the radiator fans shut off!
Then the clicking stopped. Feeling bold that something had changed, I
turned the key. Engine cranked for a few seconds, fired and purred!! That
after a day and a half of sitting out in below freezing weather. Check
engine light went out, fans stayed off and the idle dropped as it warmed
up. Engine warmed up, rad fans cycled as they should. Back to normal,
YEAH!

Feeling a bit reserved, I did not deem it offically fixed until this
morning, after a series of cold starts last night and this morning. Every
one perfect.

Not sure excatly what happened, but am blaming the temp sensor, and
crediting a test-mode-reset of the computer as the final step. That last
part is likely BS, but I am not above making stuff up to convince my
daughter that I am brilliant (even in the face of evidance to the
contrary).
I don't have a better explanation, so that's our story and we're sticking to
it!
Carl and Michael, thanks again for your responses and ideas.
Much appreciated!

AL A.

Glad it worked out, and thanks for the feedback. Next time we can claim to
be nearer to geniuses, too.

Mike
 
Michael said:
I don't have a better explanation, so that's our story and we're sticking to
it!




Glad it worked out, and thanks for the feedback. Next time we can claim to
be nearer to geniuses, too.

Mike


It always amazes me what a powerful resource usenet can be, in spite
of the sometimes low singal-to-noise ratio. Has only rarely let me down.
The amount of collective knowledge and experience is mind boggling if
you stop and think about it.

And don't worry guys, I'll back you up on the genuis claim!

-AL A.
 
Al said:
Hi all,
In the off chance that anybody cares, here is what happened with the
Subaru cold start problem that I posted about here a few days back.

After having the repair place attempt to read the fault code with
their high tech snap-on scanner and getting nothing and changing the
coolant temp sensor, the problem persisted. Still not starting cold, rad
fans running, and constant "check engine" light. After pleading here for
help, and getting a few good links to Subaru code extracting procedures,
I braved the cold yesterday and crawled under the dash to locate the
test connectors. According to the procedure, there are 2 wires that you
hook together, then turn on the key to get the computer to flash the
codes to you. I found and connected them, turned on the key and waited.
There was lots of odd relay clicking sounds, for a few seconds, check
engine light stayed on, no codes flashed to me, and then the radiator
fans shut off! Then the clicking stopped. Feeling bold that something
had changed, I turned the key. Engine cranked for a few seconds, fired
and purred!! That after a day and a half of sitting out in below
freezing weather. Check engine light went out, fans stayed off and the
idle dropped as it warmed up. Engine warmed up, rad fans cycled as they
should. Back to normal, YEAH!

Feeling a bit reserved, I did not deem it offically fixed until this
morning, after a series of cold starts last night and this morning.
Every one perfect.

Not sure excatly what happened, but am blaming the temp sensor, and
crediting a test-mode-reset of the computer as the final step. That last
part is likely BS, but I am not above making stuff up to convince my
daughter that I am brilliant (even in the face of evidance to the contrary).

Carl and Michael, thanks again for your responses and ideas.
Much appreciated!

AL A.

I did not notice your original post, but if you have a bad temp sensor
the computer does to adjust for it.
As you suspected (not BS), If you replace it, the computer doesn't know
about it so you basically have to reset the computer and that's what
those two connectors do (or leave the power off).

Glad you got it fixed.

Remco
 
Remco said:
I did not notice your original post, but if you have a bad temp sensor
the computer does to adjust for it.
As you suspected (not BS), If you replace it, the computer doesn't know
about it so you basically have to reset the computer and that's what
those two connectors do (or leave the power off).

Glad you got it fixed.

Remco

WOW! So I really AM a genius! Can't wait to tell my daughter. Seriously,
thanks for the info. It is nice to know that it was not one of those
"voodoo" fixes, I actually did something right. Even if it was sort of
by mistake...

I appreciate the follow up.

All the best,
AL A.
 
Al said:
WOW! So I really AM a genius! Can't wait to tell my daughter. Seriously,
thanks for the info. It is nice to know that it was not one of those
"voodoo" fixes, I actually did something right. Even if it was sort of
by mistake...

It is nice to have a daughter that thinks you are a genius. I remember
mine thinking of me as a genius - and remember becoming a total goober
around the day she turned 11 :)
If that hasn't happened to you yet, brace yourself!! :)

Remco
 
Hi Al, All!

Hi all,
In the off chance that anybody cares, here is what happened with the
Subaru cold start problem that I posted about here a few days back.


This is kinda late, but I'll chime in here anyway.

There _is_ another possible source for your problem, one that you may
want to investigate if the issue returns, or if you ever experience
similar problems on another vehicle.
What sometimes will happen, is that when the wiring harness connectors
are assembled, one of the mating pins will not be inserted all of the
way into the plastic connector block. These pins typically have some
sort of spring/retainer that locks them into the block, but if they
are not fully inserted, it will not engage. Then when the connectors
are mated, the bad pin is free to slide back away from it's mate.
Sometimes this is evident right away, and it is fixed before the car
leaves the factory, sometimes it waits for years before causing
problems, sometimes it plagues the car/car owner with annoying
intermittent problems forever.

If something like this were happening with your car, you may well have
fixed it (at least temporarily) while you were wiggling the harness
around messing with those diagnostic connectors.

Sometimes you can find an offending connector/wiring pin by
systematically flexing the wiring where it enters the connector while
the engine is running (it'll stall), More often you will need to
disconnect, and carefully inspect all of the connectors. Look for a
pin that is sitting at a different height from the rest, or try
pulling the wires one at a time to see if you can move one of the
pins.

Don't ask me how I know this sad story, but it's true nevertheless.
Tell 'em you heard it on alt.autos.subaru . . . ;-)

ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101
 

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