Subaru Headlights

[racin_ran]

Both my fiance and I have subaru's and the headlights are so dim even when
you have them on high beam that you can't see anything. We've replaced bulbs
but the problem is the headlight lens itself. Does anyone know how or what to
clean the headlights with so we can actually see to drive at night?

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

Both my fiance and I have subaru's and the headlights are so dim even when
you have them on high beam that you can't see anything. We've replaced bulbs
but the problem is the headlight lens itself. Does anyone know how or what to
clean the headlights with so we can actually see to drive at night?

You can get kits to clean/polish off the yellow, pitted surface of the
lens if that's the problem. I suppose poor/rusted ground connections are
a possibility as well.

Carl

 

[L. Ross Raszewski]

You can get kits to clean/polish off the yellow, pitted surface of the
lens if that's the problem. I suppose poor/rusted ground connections are
a possibility as well.

Carl

I noticed that the older subarus seem to have comparatively dim
headlights toi begin with, and they are *very* prone to wear on the
lenses. A little rubbing compound and a dremmel tool with a buffing
attachment will do wonders, but you might not be entirely satisfied
without getting some kind of non-stock replacement.

 

[Rick Courtright]

Does anyone know how or what to
clean the headlights with so we can actually see to drive at night?

Hi,

Do you have the older style glass or the newer plastic lenses?

If glass, although it's rare, the inside--both lens and reflector--can
become "hazed" because of an imperfect seal between the lamp housing and
the bulb. (If you've ever replaced a headlamp unit w/ one from a junk
yard, they often pull the bulbs and those I've gotten have been pretty
gunky from sitting around) It's an involved process, but you can take
the lamp housing out of the car, remove the bulb, pour a quarter cup or
so of window cleaner in there, swish it all about and let sit for a
while, then rinse and let dry. It may take a couple of DAYS to dry
depending on weather and how macho your hair dryer is! Then put it all
back together, w/ attention to the cleanliness of the connections. A bit
of dielectric grease on the connections helps reduce corrosion and
voltage loss.

If plastic, Meguiar's makes a product called PlastX (sp?) that's just
for that oxidized haze that builds up on the outside of the lenses.
Although I've done it in the past, I hesitate to recommend power tools,
even a Dremel, unless you can be super careful--it's easy to overdo it
and damage the surface of the lens. The PlastX product works well w/
simple "wax on, wax off" hand application, though it may take a couple
of sessions to get all the way thru the oxidation. And, once a lens has
oxidized like that, it's an uphill battle keeping it from doing so
again, so redoing the PlastX treatment every couple of months may be
required. Again, a check of the integrity of the electrical connections
is advisable.

You may also benefit from going to a "brighter" bulb such as the
Sylvania Xtra-vision (other mfrs have something similar.) The "blue"
bulbs popular with the "kewl krowd" don't add anything special in the
visibility department in my experience, and while bulbs like the
"Silverstar" are QUITE bright, reports here have indicated you'll
probably trade brightness for drastically shortened life expectancy, and
they're pretty pricey as well.

Rick C

 

[fish6525]

use a wet paper towell and some tooth paste. It will do wonders
polishing the plastic lens.

 

[Bonehenge (B A R R Y)]

If plastic, Meguiar's makes a product called PlastX (sp?) that's just
for that oxidized haze that builds up on the outside of the lenses.

"Flitz" is a very fine polishing compound sold in all kinds of stores,
automotive, outdoor, hardware, gun shops, hobby shops... Flitz has
worked well for me on headlight lenses, airplane windows, electronic
displays, jewelery, chrome plated items, minor paint defects, even
high-gloss woodworking finishes.

<http://www.flitz.com/index.html>

You want the stuff in a tube. Put a little on a rag, and RUB a small
section until it's shiny and clear.

Although I've done it in the past, I hesitate to recommend power tools,
even a Dremel, unless you can be super careful--it's easy to overdo it
and damage the surface of the lens.

I agree.

Regardless of the product used, PlastX, Flitz, whatever... The simple
goal is to abrade away a microscopically thin outer layer, exposing
fresh, smooth plastic, using the very fine abrasive in the product.

 

[Vanguard]

Both my fiance and I have subaru's and the headlights are so dim even
when
you have them on high beam that you can't see anything. We've replaced
bulbs
but the problem is the headlight lens itself. Does anyone know how or
what to
clean the headlights with so we can actually see to drive at night?

http://www.crystalviewchemicals.com/myheadlight/index.html

I first found this kit at Advance Auto Parts. You could find the same
materials yourself provided you found the right ones.

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

http://www.crystalviewchemicals.com/myheadlight/index.html

I first found this kit at Advance Auto Parts. You could find the same
materials yourself provided you found the right ones.

Hmmm...I wonder if this stuff works on a pitted windshield?

Is it just a polish, or is it a polish/filler?

 

[Vanguard]

Hmmm...I wonder if this stuff works on a pitted windshield?

Is it just a polish, or is it a polish/filler?

The lens on the headlight is Lexan (plastic). Your windshield is made
of glass. The headlight kit uses a super-fine grit to rub off the
yellowed and dull top layer of the plastic lens, and the coating then
restores their clarity of the plastic lens. In effect, you are sanding
off the top layer (that is yellow and dull) to make a smooth top layer
which then gets coated (with a plastic-based coating).

Pitted windshields require an epoxy to fill the pit. For very, very
small pits or scrapes from metallic bladed snow scrapers, use glass wax
(not a permenant solution, however).

 

[Bonehenge (B A R R Y)]

The lens on the headlight is Lexan (plastic). Your windshield is made
of glass.

His windshield is probably plastic coated glass.

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

The lens on the headlight is Lexan (plastic). Your windshield is made of
glass. The headlight kit uses a super-fine grit to rub off the yellowed
and dull top layer of the plastic lens, and the coating then restores
their clarity of the plastic lens. In effect, you are sanding off the top
layer (that is yellow and dull) to make a smooth top layer which then gets
coated (with a plastic-based coating).

Yeah, that's what I thought...

I had a '92 Grand Voyager that had *HORRIBLE* wear on the headlights, and
I hit it with 3M MicroFinish ( a paint buffing compound) and a heavy coat
of wax, and it cleared it up considerably.

Pitted windshields require an epoxy to fill the pit. For very, very
small pits or scrapes from metallic bladed snow scrapers, use glass wax
(not a permenant solution, however).

Thanks. Better than a new windshield!

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

His windshield is probably plastic coated glass.

That's the top of my head, BH!

 

[Rick Courtright]

Pitted windshields require an epoxy to fill the pit. For very, very
small pits or scrapes from metallic bladed snow scrapers, use glass wax
(not a permenant solution, however).

Hi,

Are we talking about the same thing? I'm thinking of a glass cleaner
product that's been around forever that's called "Glass Wax." (In a pink
can.) Wipe it on, it hazes over white, wipe off. It leaves tiny white
specks in my windshields. Is there another product you're thinking of?

Rick

 

[Vanguard]

Hi,

Are we talking about the same thing? I'm thinking of a glass cleaner
product that's been around forever that's called "Glass Wax." (In a
pink
can.) Wipe it on, it hazes over white, wipe off. It leaves tiny white
specks in my windshields. Is there another product you're thinking of?

Rick

It's been eons since I used glass wax but don't remember it being pink.
The haze left behind was faint, not like buffing off the haze from car
wax. However, the amount of fill-in for glass wax is about the same as
if you took your car to the car wash and got it waxed.