starting problem starting

W

wayne

My '97 legacy wagon has been running OK for years but recently I've
noticed whenever I turn the ignition it just clicks and nothing happens.
I do it again and it starts. This has been happening more often and I
fear that something is about to go wrong and I won't be able to start the
car, late at night in the boonies. Is this an indication of an upcoming
battery problem? Starter problem? Something else?

Thanks,
Wayne
2.2L engine
 
I would start by checking all the battery and engine ground connections.
(in other words, all the thicker wires)

I would follow with a voltage measuremente while cranking. Anything
less than 9V indicates a battery ready to go.

You can also check the voltage in the thinner wire at the starter, the
one that comes from the ignition switch.

If the voltage readings are ok, then you can think about the starter
problem, but I would not think this as the cause of the problem.

Good luck!
 
wayne said:
My '97 legacy wagon has been running OK for years but recently I've
noticed whenever I turn the ignition it just clicks and nothing happens.
I do it again and it starts. This has been happening more often and I
fear that something is about to go wrong and I won't be able to start the
car, late at night in the boonies. Is this an indication of an upcoming
battery problem? Starter problem? Something else?

Start with getting your battery load tested.

I've had contacts on an ignition switch go out on me on a Honda civic
years ago that gave similar symptoms, but that was a total fluke I
think.
 
I would start by checking all the battery and engine ground connections.
(in other words, all the thicker wires)

I would follow with a voltage measuremente while cranking. Anything
less than 9V indicates a battery ready to go.

You can also check the voltage in the thinner wire at the starter, the
one that comes from the ignition switch.

If the voltage readings are ok, then you can think about the starter
problem, but I would not think this as the cause of the problem.

Good luck!

Thank you very much. I'll start with the battery.

Wayne
 
Start with getting your battery load tested.

I've had contacts on an ignition switch go out on me on a Honda civic
years ago that gave similar symptoms, but that was a total fluke I
think.

Thanks. I'll check the connections.

Wayne
 
My '97 legacy wagon has been running OK for years but recently I've
noticed whenever I turn the ignition it just clicks and nothing happens.
I do it again and it starts. This has been happening more often and I
fear that something is about to go wrong and I won't be able to start the
car, late at night in the boonies. Is this an indication of an upcoming
battery problem? Starter problem? Something else?

Thanks,
Wayne
2.2L engine

This problem is usually caused by the contacts in the starter motor
solenoid being dirty/worn. Change the contacts: an hours easy work.
 
This is a common problem not just with Subys but with any car using a Nippon
Denso starter. The contacts in the solenoid are very soft copper. They make
great contact, electrically, but they are soft enough that after a while the
impact of the moving contact demolishes the stationary contacts. I have
fixed these for both of our Subys and also for Toyotas and some Chrysler
Corp. cars. They seem to last about 80000-120000 miles and then the contacts
get beaten down with a recess that keeps the moving contact from reliably
meeting the stationary ones. Fortunately the moving contact, much more
complicated, (a) seems to be made of harder copper and (b) also rotates
somewhat in operation so the wear is spread around on it.
You can find replacement contacts on ebay some times, and at other places.
If you still have access to an old-style repair place specializing in
starters and alternators, they might have the part, but those shops seem to
be disappearing. I have never wanted to wait around for mail order when a
starter failed for this simple reason, so I have always improvised new
contacts out of whatever copper was handy. I have used pennies, pieces cut
from copper pipe and flattened, etc. These days I have a milling machine so
the last time I had to do it I just milled a recess in the otherwise good
contacts and soldered in pieces of copper (from pipe, as I recall) to build
the surface back up to where the moving contact will hit them.
So any place that repairs starters should be able to fix it, or if you like
to tinker you can do it yourself.
Bob Wilson
 
Robert said:
This is a common problem not just with Subys but with any car using a Nippon
Denso starter. The contacts in the solenoid are very soft copper. They make
great contact, electrically, but they are soft enough that after a while the
impact of the moving contact demolishes the stationary contacts. I have
fixed these for both of our Subys and also for Toyotas and some Chrysler
Corp. cars. They seem to last about 80000-120000 miles and then the contacts
get beaten down with a recess that keeps the moving contact from reliably
meeting the stationary ones. Fortunately the moving contact, much more
complicated, (a) seems to be made of harder copper and (b) also rotates
somewhat in operation so the wear is spread around on it.
You can find replacement contacts on ebay some times, and at other places.
If you still have access to an old-style repair place specializing in
starters and alternators, they might have the part, but those shops seem to
be disappearing. I have never wanted to wait around for mail order when a
starter failed for this simple reason, so I have always improvised new
contacts out of whatever copper was handy. I have used pennies, pieces cut
from copper pipe and flattened, etc. These days I have a milling machine so
the last time I had to do it I just milled a recess in the otherwise good
contacts and soldered in pieces of copper (from pipe, as I recall) to build
the surface back up to where the moving contact will hit them.
So any place that repairs starters should be able to fix it, or if you like
to tinker you can do it yourself.
Bob Wilson

If you use pennies, after 1980 or so they are zinc with copper cladding.
Use only those before 1980. (they still are not 'pure' copper)

Carl
 

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