Self flush auto trans? (89 GL coupe)

  • Thread starter Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B
  • Start date
H

Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

OK, my tranny's really starting to bum me out. I checked the level again,
added a *LITTLE*, and again it's puking from the breather hose.

All of this started last week when I added some trans fluid to what
appeared to be a tranny low on fluid.

I thought I had replaced the screen, but now I'm not sure. I can't
remember. I know I had this problem last year when I filled it to between
Low and Full on the dipstick, and IIRC I dropped the pan and replaced the
filter, but I just can't remember.

Good news is, filter is $7.99 at AutoZone. Bad news is, they can't get
one!

I'm afraid I mixed different types of trans fluid. I use Castrol, and I
usually use 'Domestic" since it is Dexron/Mercon, which I believe is
recommended, but I can't remember!! I may have used the "Foreign" version,
but when I filled the tranny I used "Domestic" which is wht I use in the
Supra.

The trans is in good shape except for the puking that began after the last
fill, so I am thinking about flushing, something I am not really in favor
of, but I want to get the 'mix' completely out of the trans.

I called a place listed in the phone book. I don't know them personally
but I know of them and they are good guys. He described a procdure to me
that I have been thinking about, wondering if it would work, and that is
using the pump in the transmission as a pump to flush the fluid. His
answer confirmed that I'm not so dumb afterall, and is something like
this:

<NOTE: This is for a Chrysler 3-speed auto in an '85 Caravan>

_____________________________________________

First, drain the fluid from the pan, just like you would using Mr.
Macfairlane's procedure. Once you've replaced the filter, the pan gasket,
and reinstalled the pan, you're ready for the next step.

Fill the transmission to the proper level using the proper type of
transmission fluid. Then disconnect the return transmission line (the line
in which transmission fluid flows from the transmission cooler back to the
transmission), located near the bottom of the radiator. There's two
transmission lines connected in this location, and the bottom line is
usually the return line. Once the line has been disconnected, attach a
clear piece of tubing to the transmission cooler, the same diameter as the
transmission line, approximately 5-6 feet long, using the transmission
line clamp to secure it.

Place the unattached end of the clear tube in a plastic, one gallon milk
container and place it where it can be seen (like not under the car).

For the next portion of the procedure, make sure that the parking brake is
set prior to continuing. Start the engine. The transmission needs to be
put into "Drive" so the torque converter fluid is changed as well. Some
transmissions will only circulate fluid through the torque converter only
in drive. This especially applies to the electronically controlled
transmissions. [Craig Sherman noted that Drive is needed for most
transmissions, based on technical manuals]

After approximately 4 to 5 quarts (obviously, if it's more than 4 quarts,
you'll have to turn of the engine, and fetch another milk jug) of fluid
have been pumped out, you should notice a change in the color of the
fluid. It should go from a brownish red color, to a bright pinkish red
color. When this happens, all of the old fluid has been replaced with new
fluid.

Be careful not to overfill the tranny during this procedure.

When completed, reconnect the transmission return line to the transmission
cooler. Check the fluid level as you normally would, and add fluid as
required.

____________________________________________________________________


The guy I spoke to said to just fill the tranny's filler neck like you
would when filling the transmission. When it starts to run clear red, stop
filling and let it run until it starts to splutter and then stop and fill
to normal level, drive the car until it reaches operating temperature and
then check again and fill if required.

Makes sense to me! What I was wondering is, what if you take one gallon
jug empty to fill with the old fluid, and another full gallon (or more) to
draw in fresh tranny fluid?

Any ideas?

BTW, I am NOT a fan of flushing, but I want to see if it resolves the
problem...
 
OK, my tranny's really starting to bum me out. I checked the level
again, added a *LITTLE*, and again it's puking from the breather hose.



It's foaming. That's what makes it spill out the breather.

Foaming fluid is old fluid: the anti-foam agents have deteriorated.

The best home remedy?
1) Drain & fill.
2) Drive.
3) Drain & fill again.
4) Repeat from #2 at least twice more.
5) Dump old jalopy and buy new car with tranny that's been better cared
for.

But then again, maybe Subies have some quirks Toyotas haven't got...
 
5) Dump old jalopy and buy new car with tranny that's been better cared
for.

(the tranny's the best thing on the car...it didn't act up until I added
ATF last week...)

That's why I'm wondering if mixing different types of ATF is causing the
problem...

As an aside...I threw in some Sea Foam. I know a guy who was a Suby tech
for 15 years...he works on Jags and some pretty expensive exotics now, and
he tipped me off to the Sea Foam...
 
(the tranny's the best thing on the car...it didn't act up until I
added ATF last week...)

That's why I'm wondering if mixing different types of ATF is causing
the problem...



Coincidence?

Maybe the slushbox was already on the verge of foaming and all it took was
just...a leeetle bit more.


As an aside...I threw in some Sea Foam. I know a guy who was a Suby
tech for 15 years...he works on Jags and some pretty expensive exotics
now, and he tipped me off to the Sea Foam...


And I've heard rumblings that SeaFoam is made of snake-oil.

Well, actually, it consists of camp stove fuel, rubbing alcohol and a light
lubricating oil similar to that which is already present in ATF.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/pdf/MSDS_SFTT_US.pdf
(Gotta wonder what their margin is...)

There is simply no substitute for regular fluid changes, those being done
in the total absence of snake-oil additives.
 
Coincidence?

Maybe the slushbox was already on the verge of foaming and all it took was
just...a leeetle bit more.

What makes it foam?
And I've heard rumblings that SeaFoam is made of snake-oil.

Well, actually, it consists of camp stove fuel, rubbing alcohol and a light
lubricating oil similar to that which is already present in ATF.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/pdf/MSDS_SFTT_US.pdf
(Gotta wonder what their margin is...)

A LOT!!!! Last one was $7.99, this one was $9.99!
There is simply no substitute for regular fluid changes, those being done
in the total absence of snake-oil additives.

The transmission started working better almost right off the bat.

Other than this little problem the trans was working GREAT before, and the
trans fluid is the correct color and smell.
 
Hachiroku ???? said:
OK, my tranny's really starting to bum me out. I checked the level again,
added a *LITTLE*, and again it's puking from the breather hose.

All of this started last week when I added some trans fluid to what
appeared to be a tranny low on fluid.

I thought I had replaced the screen, but now I'm not sure. I can't
remember. I know I had this problem last year when I filled it to between
Low and Full on the dipstick, and IIRC I dropped the pan and replaced the
filter, but I just can't remember.

Good news is, filter is $7.99 at AutoZone. Bad news is, they can't get
one!

I'm afraid I mixed different types of trans fluid. I use Castrol, and I
usually use 'Domestic" since it is Dexron/Mercon, which I believe is
recommended, but I can't remember!! I may have used the "Foreign" version,
but when I filled the tranny I used "Domestic" which is wht I use in the
Supra.

The trans is in good shape except for the puking that began after the last
fill, so I am thinking about flushing, something I am not really in favor
of, but I want to get the 'mix' completely out of the trans.

I called a place listed in the phone book. I don't know them personally
but I know of them and they are good guys. He described a procdure to me
that I have been thinking about, wondering if it would work, and that is
using the pump in the transmission as a pump to flush the fluid. His
answer confirmed that I'm not so dumb afterall, and is something like
this:

<NOTE: This is for a Chrysler 3-speed auto in an '85 Caravan>

_____________________________________________

First, drain the fluid from the pan, just like you would using Mr.
Macfairlane's procedure. Once you've replaced the filter, the pan gasket,
and reinstalled the pan, you're ready for the next step.

Fill the transmission to the proper level using the proper type of
transmission fluid. Then disconnect the return transmission line (the line
in which transmission fluid flows from the transmission cooler back to the
transmission), located near the bottom of the radiator. There's two
transmission lines connected in this location, and the bottom line is
usually the return line. Once the line has been disconnected, attach a
clear piece of tubing to the transmission cooler, the same diameter as the
transmission line, approximately 5-6 feet long, using the transmission
line clamp to secure it.

Place the unattached end of the clear tube in a plastic, one gallon milk
container and place it where it can be seen (like not under the car).

For the next portion of the procedure, make sure that the parking brake is
set prior to continuing. Start the engine. The transmission needs to be
put into "Drive" so the torque converter fluid is changed as well. Some
transmissions will only circulate fluid through the torque converter only
in drive. This especially applies to the electronically controlled
transmissions. [Craig Sherman noted that Drive is needed for most
transmissions, based on technical manuals]

After approximately 4 to 5 quarts (obviously, if it's more than 4 quarts,
you'll have to turn of the engine, and fetch another milk jug) of fluid
have been pumped out, you should notice a change in the color of the
fluid. It should go from a brownish red color, to a bright pinkish red
color. When this happens, all of the old fluid has been replaced with new
fluid.

Be careful not to overfill the tranny during this procedure.

When completed, reconnect the transmission return line to the transmission
cooler. Check the fluid level as you normally would, and add fluid as
required.

____________________________________________________________________


The guy I spoke to said to just fill the tranny's filler neck like you
would when filling the transmission. When it starts to run clear red, stop
filling and let it run until it starts to splutter and then stop and fill
to normal level, drive the car until it reaches operating temperature and
then check again and fill if required.

Makes sense to me! What I was wondering is, what if you take one gallon
jug empty to fill with the old fluid, and another full gallon (or more) to
draw in fresh tranny fluid?

Any ideas?

BTW, I am NOT a fan of flushing, but I want to see if it resolves the
problem...

Sticking another hose in clean ATF to draw it into the transmission probably
won't work because the transmission pushes the fluid through the radiator.

When you messed with the filter, you did get it back in exactly the right
position with no gaps between the filter and valve body, right?
 
Sticking another hose in clean ATF to draw it into the transmission probably
won't work because the transmission pushes the fluid through the radiator.

When you messed with the filter, you did get it back in exactly the right
position with no gaps between the filter and valve body, right?
-

Always! I can't remember what I did, but that was back in January. The car
ran great until last week when I added fluid.

We're supposed to get tomorrow what you got today. No getting under the
car for a few days...
 
Hachiroku ???? said:
Always! I can't remember what I did, but that was back in January. The car
ran great until last week when I added fluid.

We're supposed to get tomorrow what you got today. No getting under the
car for a few days...
It just started snowing in the last half hour. The weather guessers are
saying between 2 and 12 inches - nothing like narrowing down the forecast!
 
What makes it foam?



The anti-foaming additives wear out. That's one reason you need to
replace all the fluid at regular intervals.

I do a drain-and-fill several times a year on our Tercel, with a gallon
out of the two in there coming out each time. This way I keep all the
fluid mostly fresh most of the time, with the proportion of old fluid
staying low compared to the volume of new.


A LOT!!!! Last one was $7.99, this one was $9.99!


The transmission started working better almost right off the bat.

Other than this little problem the trans was working GREAT before, and
the trans fluid is the correct color and smell.



Then maybe SeaFoam contains magic snake oil that really works.
 
It just started snowing in the last half hour. The weather guessers are
saying between 2 and 12 inches - nothing like narrowing down the forecast!

WOW! It started snowing here about 2 hours after there. Must be a BIG
storm!

They said it was a fast moving storm. It's 3PM EST now and we're getting
clobbered...
 
The weather forecasters can't get it right when they tell us what will
happen in two days yet the environut global warming theorists expect us to
believe THEY can tell us what the weather will be like in FIFTY years if we
don't chage our ways. I wish they could just explain how global warming
led to it snowing in New Orleans and in the desert in and around Los Vegas
recently LOL
..
 
Hachiroku ???? said:
WOW! It started snowing here about 2 hours after there. Must be a BIG
storm!

They said it was a fast moving storm. It's 3PM EST now and we're getting
clobbered...

I finally broke out the snow blower. I didn't do any of the stuff I tell
everyone else to do so the oil is over a year old, the fuel was in the tank
since last spring, and it fired right up. Now all I gotta do is tighten the
auger drive belt so it quits squealing.
 
I finally broke out the snow blower. I didn't do any of the stuff I tell
everyone else to do so the oil is over a year old, the fuel was in the tank
since last spring, and it fired right up. Now all I gotta do is tighten the
auger drive belt so it quits squealing.

We had 2" here the other day. I used the 'little boy' (30? year old Airens
5HP in VG condition). Changed the oil before I put it in the garage. Put
fresh gas in it when it ran out Wednesday!

Tomorrow 'fat man' comes out. 30+ year old AMF 'Polar Bear' with a new
Techumseh Snow King, 1 year old. Changed the oil before storing it.
Started last week and runs good (it better!) Motor was $250 on eBay, brand
new.

We ended up with 4" here. They were estimating 8-12 at first, them moved
it down one county, and revised us to 4-10.
 
Mike said:
The weather forecasters can't get it right when they tell us what will
happen in two days yet the environut global warming theorists expect us to
believe THEY can tell us what the weather will be like in FIFTY years if we
don't chage our ways. I wish they could just explain how global warming
led to it snowing in New Orleans and in the desert in and around Los Vegas
recently LOL

You should know how to better think logically and detect fallacies in
logic, especially your own. LOL.
 

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