Rebuilding EA-82 at home

[Rick Courtright]

Hi,

Returning from the annual 1300 mile T-day trip, the old Subie did just
fine. Almost all the way. It normally uses about a quart of oil/1200
miles (it's got 342k kinda tough miles before anyone thinks that's
excessive!) and has for at least 130k miles, so I'm used to checking
religiously at every gas stop, and I keep it topped off all the time,
"just in case." Last stop was about 200 miles from home. Checking again
at home, oil had gone from full to over a quart low! Whaaaat??? I can't
find anything obviously wrong externally other than a sluggish PCV valve
and more blowby from the filler neck (cap off) than usual. I replaced it
last night, but haven't driven enough to know if that helped. Plugs
weren't fouled, but they had some miles so I replaced them, too. Someone
was kind enough to steal my compression tester in a recent
break-in--just discovered that--so I haven't done a compression check
yet.

If the engine's truly sick, is rebuilding it a shade tree job? I've done
a handful of engines in the past, but first glance thru the book makes
this one seem a little weird regarding getting into the case/block. Any
special tools or suggestions? I tried the Ultimate Subaru Message Board,
but they've moved and my browser is grumpy about getting to the new
site, so looking up stuff there has been slow!

Thanks,

Rick

 

[Gilles Gour]

Hi,

Returning from the annual 1300 mile T-day trip, the old Subie did just
fine. Almost all the way. It normally uses about a quart of oil/1200
miles (it's got 342k kinda tough miles before anyone thinks that's
excessive!) and has for at least 130k miles, so I'm used to checking
religiously at every gas stop, and I keep it topped off all the time,
"just in case." Last stop was about 200 miles from home. Checking again
at home, oil had gone from full to over a quart low! Whaaaat??? I can't
find anything obviously wrong externally other than a sluggish PCV valve
and more blowby from the filler neck (cap off) than usual. I replaced it
last night, but haven't driven enough to know if that helped. Plugs
weren't fouled, but they had some miles so I replaced them, too. Someone
was kind enough to steal my compression tester in a recent
break-in--just discovered that--so I haven't done a compression check
yet.

If the engine's truly sick, is rebuilding it a shade tree job? I've done
a handful of engines in the past, but first glance thru the book makes
this one seem a little weird regarding getting into the case/block. Any
special tools or suggestions? I tried the Ultimate Subaru Message Board,
but they've moved and my browser is grumpy about getting to the new
site, so looking up stuff there has been slow!

Thanks,

Rick

If it can help:
http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=2

 

[ed]

Piston pins are different to remove than other engines, and case needs to be
split befor removing con rods and crank, otherwise not much different from
other engines. Make sure you use a good sealer on the crankcase halves (I
used the Permatex gray silicone sealer, still holding 4 years later). Get
everything measured at a machine shop, rebore, grind crank as needed, valve
job, check heads for cracks/flatness, replace all seals obviously, water
pump etc. Replace the rubber coated washers on the cranckcase bolts to
ensure you don't get coolant going into c/case, this is too far into the
engine to try to save a few dolllars by using the old ones. Use Lucas engine
additive or other to coat bearing/bore surfaces when assembling, or use
engine oil. Before start up, turn engine over w/o plugs (groung the plug
leads) until oil light goes out, this ensures oil is in all the passages. At
start up, let engine idle for a few minutes to ensure oil is circulated
everywhere, check for leaks.
On a Legacy 2.2 I did, the only special tools I needed were 12 point 12 and
14 mm sockets, and 14 mm allen key (can use a bolt with a 14mm head with a
nut welded in place at the threaded end as a 14mm allen key).

Ed B.

 

[Rick Courtright]

Piston pins are different to remove than other engines, and case needs to be
split befor removing con rods and crank, otherwise not much different from

Hi,

I used to know my way around air-cooled VW engines a bit--so other than
the weird piston pin thing, the case and its innards should be pretty
similar? And are piston pins likely to be a bugger to remove? Pix in the
book show a homemade tool to get them out, but aren't that good, and I'm
just thinking with a third of a million miles, there's gotta be a goodly
buildup of crud in there. I'm thinking out loud here, but if pins are
stuck, what about just splitting the case, pulling the halves off the
pistons and working on stuff "out in the open?" Or is it likely one of
the machined sealing faces would be damaged going that route?

Thanks!

Rick

 

[S]

Hi Rick!

it's got 342k kinda tough miles

That's a lot, even for a Soobie! You're probably gonna find that most
everything inside the motor is at or beyond it's wear limit.
Unless you just like to tinker (maybe even then), you will probably be
time and money ahead to simply find a low-miles used engine at a
salvage yard ($300-400) and swap 'em out. Then if you're so inclined,
you can pull the original apart for a potential rebuild at your
leisure. For probably not a whole lot more you could likely find an
entire car in running condition; something to keep in mind when you go
shopping.
An engine swap can be accomplished in a days work or less with no
special tools required except for a hoist of some sort to lift the
motor. Actually, a couple stout bodies will serve, as the engine only
weighs 150-200lb.
Feel free to contact me directly if you'd like procedural nfo on this
endeavor.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[Rob Munach]

Hi Rick!




That's a lot, even for a Soobie! You're probably gonna find that most
everything inside the motor is at or beyond it's wear limit.
Unless you just like to tinker (maybe even then), you will probably be
time and money ahead to simply find a low-miles used engine at a
salvage yard ($300-400) and swap 'em out. Then if you're so inclined,
you can pull the original apart for a potential rebuild at your
leisure. For probably not a whole lot more you could likely find an
entire car in running condition; something to keep in mind when you go
shopping.
An engine swap can be accomplished in a days work or less with no
special tools required except for a hoist of some sort to lift the
motor. Actually, a couple stout bodies will serve, as the engine only
weighs 150-200lb.
Feel free to contact me directly if you'd like procedural nfo on this
endeavor.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

I agree. Even if the parts aren't dimensionally worn out, some may be
close to the end of their fatigue life. Unless you are gonna magniflux
everything, you might as well by a used motor.

 

[Rick Courtright]

I agree. Even if the parts aren't dimensionally worn out, some may be
close to the end of their fatigue life. Unless you are gonna magniflux
everything, you might as well by a used motor.

Hi,

I'm starting to lean toward the idea of first, just swapping out an
engine as you and Steve suggested, then, maybe leisurely rebuilding the
old one. I got a hold of CCR up in Denver and they'll sell me one of
their rebuilds for $1275 plus shipping and core if I want to keep the
old engine. I haven't priced out parts yet, but I'm guessing I might be
approaching that price by the time I get thru replacing everything
that's worn. Any thoughts or experiences there vs just taking my chances
with a junkyard engine?

Also, since this engine doesn't seem to be very highly stressed in the
area of hp/unit of displacement, do you suppose fatigue is likely to be
a serious concern?

Thanks!

Rick

 

[Jim Stewart]

Rob Munach wrote:




Hi,

I'm starting to lean toward the idea of first, just swapping out an
engine as you and Steve suggested, then, maybe leisurely rebuilding the
old one. I got a hold of CCR up in Denver and they'll sell me one of
their rebuilds for $1275 plus shipping and core if I want to keep the
old engine. I haven't priced out parts yet, but I'm guessing I might be
approaching that price by the time I get thru replacing everything
that's worn. Any thoughts or experiences there vs just taking my chances
with a junkyard engine?

I'd look for a car with low miles and a totaled body and take
it's engine.

 

[Rick Courtright]

If it can help:
http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=2

Thanks, Gilles!

The link got me in, then it locked up on me. Gotta try a different
browser...

Rick

 

[Gilles Gour]

HI ED.
I'm a relatively good DIYer and shade tree mechanic but have never
rebuilt a motor.
Could you give me an idea of what it implies and of publications
available if any that could put me on the right track.

By the way, since you seem to know 2.2L engines very well maybe you
could tell me if this sounds normal to you.
Everything's allrigh with the 2.2 L engine (96 Legacy) except this.
When idling (and when idling only) I hear somethink sounding like a
clunk or thump (nothing resemblic the tic or clac of valves) with a
frequency of about 1/4 the rpm (700rpm) (3 times a second approx.) When
I put my hand on the top of the engine I feel something like if someone
was hitting the top of the engine from inside with a rubber mallet.
No other symptoms. And all of this disapears above 1,000 rpm.
If I had a bad crank bearing, would'nt the imbalance be felt side to
side and not up and down due to the boxer configuration? And would'nt
the sound be worst above idle rpm?
Thanks in advance.
Gilles (Montreal)

 

[Ned Pike]

In

HI ED.
I'm a relatively good DIYer and shade tree mechanic but have never
rebuilt a motor.
Could you give me an idea of what it implies and of publications
available if any that could put me on the right track.

By the way, since you seem to know 2.2L engines very well maybe you
could tell me if this sounds normal to you.
Everything's allrigh with the 2.2 L engine (96 Legacy) except this.
When idling (and when idling only) I hear somethink sounding like a
clunk or thump (nothing resemblic the tic or clac of valves) with a
frequency of about 1/4 the rpm (700rpm) (3 times a second approx.)
When I put my hand on the top of the engine I feel something like if
someone was hitting the top of the engine from inside with a rubber
mallet.
No other symptoms. And all of this disapears above 1,000 rpm.
If I had a bad crank bearing, would'nt the imbalance be felt side to
side and not up and down due to the boxer configuration? And would'nt
the sound be worst above idle rpm?
Thanks in advance.
Gilles (Montreal)

ed wrote:

That would be the archetypal definition of 2.2L piston slap, in 1 cylinder
only.

 

[Gilles Gour]

In


That would be the archetypal definition of 2.2L piston slap, in 1 cylinder
only.

Thanks for the reply. But why would piston slap produce this vertical
force going up through the engine and that I described as something like
a rubber mallet hitting the top of the engine from inside?