Rear wheel bearing: Wide range in labor charges in D.C. metro area

[mailbox]

FYI, here's my recent experience with
the infamous rear wheel bearing.
We have two 2001 Foresters, both
bought used. My wife's is automatic,
mine's manual. I've had to have
the right rear wheel bearing replaced
on both by now, at 70K & 90K miles.
For mine, it's the second time. The
original owner had to have it done
at 17K miles.

I used two different shops in the
D.C. area. The costs:
Mechanic 1: Parts, $119, Labor $150
Mechanic 2: Parts, $121, Labor $265.50

Mechanic 1 runs a casual shop, doesn't
talk much and doesn't give the hours
or his labor rate on the work order.
Mechanic 2 charges $88.50 per hour,
toted 3 hours and was articulate
about why so much labor is required
for that job. (And he makes it
sound to my ears to be definitely
not a DIY, contrary to some threads
in this newsgroup.)

Mechanic 1, in Suitland, is near
where I work now, so I'm "auditioning"
him for the role of permanent mechanic.
Mechanic 2, in Rockville, is a Saab
specialist whom I used for my Isuzu
Trooper for seven years and whose
quality of work I trust completely.

Next up: The infamous CV joint boots...

 

[bugalugs]

FYI, here's my recent experience with
the infamous rear wheel bearing.
We have two 2001 Foresters, both
bought used. My wife's is automatic,
mine's manual. I've had to have
the right rear wheel bearing replaced
on both by now, at 70K & 90K miles.
For mine, it's the second time. The
original owner had to have it done
at 17K miles.

I used two different shops in the
D.C. area. The costs:
Mechanic 1: Parts, $119, Labor $150
Mechanic 2: Parts, $121, Labor $265.50

Mechanic 1 runs a casual shop, doesn't
talk much and doesn't give the hours
or his labor rate on the work order.
Mechanic 2 charges $88.50 per hour,
toted 3 hours and was articulate
about why so much labor is required
for that job. (And he makes it
sound to my ears to be definitely
not a DIY, contrary to some threads
in this newsgroup.)

Mechanic 1, in Suitland, is near
where I work now, so I'm "auditioning"
him for the role of permanent mechanic.
Mechanic 2, in Rockville, is a Saab
specialist whom I used for my Isuzu
Trooper for seven years and whose
quality of work I trust completely.

Next up: The infamous CV joint boots...

Mechanic 2 took a long siesta between the time he clocked on and clocked
off on that job. Alternatively, if a mechanic took 3 hours to do that
job I'd be questioning his ability and competency.

 

[Edward Hayes]

Subaru has had a new procedure and tool for changing the rear wheel
bearings for several years now. The shop time Subaru calls for is 0.8
hour for one and 1.4 hours for both rear wheel bearings. This is using
the tool. If your dealer is so cheap as to not have purchased this
equipment then YOU must pay for the addition time. Considering some
owners on other Subaru newsgroups have done the replacement themselves
in less than 2 hours. Why then should any competent mechanic not be
able to do it in 1.5 hours considering a good shop will have a press
for removing the old bearing from the housing. Greed is the operative
word I think. JMO Ed

 

[mailbox]

Mechanic 2 took a long siesta between the time he clocked on and clocked
off on that job. Alternatively, if a mechanic took 3 hours to do that
job I'd be questioning his ability and competency.

Yes, I'm beginning to think mechanic 2 has been overcharging me in
recent years. As nice as he is, he could still be charging what the
traffic will bear. On the other hand, mechanic 1 charged $150 labor,
which certainly represents more time than the .8 hr official time for
the job.

 

[Dmitriy]

Subaru has had a new procedure and tool for changing the rear wheel
bearings for several years now. The shop time Subaru calls for is 0.8
hour for one and 1.4 hours for both rear wheel bearings. This is using
the tool. If your dealer is so cheap as to not have purchased this
equipment then YOU must pay for the addition time. Considering some
owners on other Subaru newsgroups have done the replacement themselves
in less than 2 hours. Why then should any competent mechanic not be
able to do it in 1.5 hours considering a good shop will have a press
for removing the old bearing from the housing. Greed is the operative
word I think. JMO Ed

DC area has salt in the winter, right? On a 2001 Forester, chances are
that the lateral link bolt is seized into the bushings. This
effectively turns the 0.8 hour job into a 3 hour job, so I wouldn't be
so quick as to say someone is ripping you off.

 

[Edward Hayes]

From my garage experience years ago (I spun wrenches), I found that
the time allotted for almost all jobs is very reasonable. This assumes
that the dealer has purchased the proper tools and all shop tools are
in good working order. The flat rate book time doesn't include 45
minute coffee & smoke breaks. As other have said excessive rust, bent
suspension parts etc will cause time over runs. There is a price for
doing business and if one job in 100 is a problem so be it.
Overcharging for almost every jobs is one reason people distrust some
dealers.

 

[Dmitriy]

From my garage experience years ago (I spun wrenches), I found that
the time allotted for almost all jobs is very reasonable. This assumes
that the dealer has purchased the proper tools and all shop tools are
in good working order. The flat rate book time doesn't include 45
minute coffee & smoke breaks. As other have said excessive rust, bent
suspension parts etc will cause time over runs. There is a price for
doing business and if one job in 100 is a problem so be it.
Overcharging for almost every jobs is one reason people distrust some
dealers.

I definitely agree with you, and that's why I try to do my own work.
Many places overcharge for the simplest things... like changing the
brake pads for example.

But...
The thing with the seized lateral link bolts is that it's a problem on
*all* Subarus that are more than 5 years old and have seen snow/salt.
I've seen many people have this problem, and there are many-a thread
about it on nasioc.

My own experience: I know a couple guys that work for a local Subie
dealer... I asked them how much it would be to change the wheel
bearing, expecting something like $200-250 with the 0.8hr book labor in
mind... the response I got was around $500... because of the lateral
link bolt issue.
I though that was too much and went ahead and did it myself... sure
enough, it took me 10 hours! For one side! I had to beat on the lateral
bolt with a sledge hammer while turning it and melting the bushings
with a torch....

I would also be careful about being cheap on this... the hub/spindle
need to be inspected for roundness, heat damage, or 'lips'... if there
is ANY damage... they should be replaced. All the seals need to be
replaced carefully, and make sure they use the newer roller-type
bearing... Otherwise you may be doing it again in 6 months.