Rear brake line leaked out, can't see where

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2006 WRX has a leak in middle of back area .. very rusty, don't know where exactly. How can I locate and repair the leak ? Can I route a new line or section ? Any prior experiences can help me get started on this. Thanks, Ron
 
If there's rust, it is probably time for new lines. If you're in there...I'd add stainless lines at each of the wheels. You'll notice an improvement in braking feel and force.

Pics can help us help you.
 
I've since found a few videos.. suggesting it's a common failure. Because the left rear line is virtually inaccessible (over fuel tank), they made a line to run under the rear seat. This may be my choice as well since, at my age (74) .. major work is not an option. Also, the rust is bad .. (Still Usable, But All Rusty Underneath)

First video led to another and then a 3rd.
 
As you may already know, source of leak in those cases was at the disconnect, so 4 lines are in "rust zone", so their alternate method literally works around prob area. I am interested in using SS but have no experience in flaring either. I'll need fittings for joining pipes and more to reconnect near wheels. Car has been sitting for a year, 150 miles away so I have to try and bring everything I'll need to get her going, beyond ramps, jack stands, and floor jack. What size line and fittings, what tools to bend/flare, where to get ? Any chance they make flexible SS lines of various lengths with proper fittings pre-attached ?
 
They sell kits for the stainless lines. You remove the old and swap in the new. Flush/bleed is easy after.
 
As you may already know, source of leak in those cases was at the disconnect, so 4 lines are in "rust zone", so their alternate method literally works around prob area. I am interested in using SS but have no experience in flaring either. I'll need fittings for joining pipes and more to reconnect near wheels. Car has been sitting for a year, 150 miles away so I have to try and bring everything I'll need to get her going, beyond ramps, jack stands, and floor jack. What size line and fittings, what tools to bend/flare, where to get ? Any chance they make flexible SS lines of various lengths with proper fittings pre-attached ?
2006 WRX has a leak in middle of back area .. very rusty, don't know where exactly. How can I locate and repair the leak ? Can I route a new line or section ? Any prior experiences can help me get started on this. Thanks, Ron
99% of the time the lines break off where it goes through the floor under the back seat, its not too bad to get to once the seat's out. ive had to fix 3 of my subies in the past in that spot. flaring is intimidating but you can always cut it back and start over until you get it. solidarity from the rust belt lol ✊
 
Never work on a vehicle at a remote location .... You will eventually spend more that way than by transporting it to your favorite Work Site ... !!!
 
99% of the time the lines break off where it goes through the floor under the back seat, its not too bad to get to once the seat's out. ive had to fix 3 of my subies in the past in that spot. flaring is intimidating but you can always cut it back and start over until you get it. solidarity from the rust belt lol ✊
Did you run the new line under back seat like they did in the videos ? I'd think that some extra protection under the seat like running inside a fuel hose so its less likely to get worn thru. Think they make pre-fab flexible lines to specified lengths ? I'd still have to double flare lines going up rt side. I think dropping the tank to run that 1 line above is way too much work. Any tips on tubing type, size or fittings ? Appreciate thoughts & advice.
 
Did you run the new line under back seat like they did in the videos ? I'd think that some extra protection under the seat like running inside a fuel hose so its less likely to get worn thru. Think they make pre-fab flexible lines to specified lengths ? I'd still have to double flare lines going up rt side. I think dropping the tank to run that 1 line above is way too much work. Any tips on tubing type, size or fittings ? Appreciate thoughts & advice.
i definitely wouldnt drop the tank haha that would be a headache. i just spliced them right above and below the floor, but i DID have to replace a gas line one time after i melted it welding (caught on fire, 0/10 experience don't recommend) and ran it under the seat that way. that was last winter on my daily, i havent had any problems with it. idk whereabouts you are but canadian tire sells pre-made pieces of different lengths with the flares and fittings, im sure other auto stores would have similar stuff. just might have to make a little loop under the seat if theres any extra line. i dont remember the sizes but if you take the old stuff in and eyeball it and just make sure you get the right thread pitch it should be fine
 
i definitely wouldnt drop the tank haha that would be a headache. i just spliced them right above and below the floor, but i DID have to replace a gas line one time after i melted it welding (caught on fire, 0/10 experience don't recommend) and ran it under the seat that way. that was last winter on my daily, i havent had any problems with it. idk whereabouts you are but canadian tire sells pre-made pieces of different lengths with the flares and fittings, im sure other auto stores would have similar stuff. just might have to make a little loop under the seat if theres any extra line. i dont remember the sizes but if you take the old stuff in and eyeball it and just make sure you get the right thread pitch it should be fine
Comment : when it comes to Brake-Line-Tubes , .... there is no such thing as "... a little loop..." !
If you can not find the proper length : for short extras, just take a wider , mild swing along the way and be ready to install additional rubberized hold-downs ; for longer "extras" , make sure that you are REALLY-LONG , and install the mild loop that you referred to !
Most Brake-Line rust-outs happen at the Fittings, due to microscopic fluid leaks : the Fluid is extremely Hydro-Scopic , and attracts humidity from even the driest of air ; the second most likely is at hold-downs, where road-salt hides, and also attracts humidity and causes the rust-out ; the third most likely is Stress-Corrosion-Cracking , resulting from either manufacturing or installation excess bending of the tubes. Try to eliminate all three of these, as you install your new lines.

Most Brake Lines are installed at the Factory for Ease-Of-Assembly ... : THIS IS NEVER THE SAME AS EASE OF REPAIR !

Be prepared to route your Repair Tubes along different paths, for YOUR convenience ! This can save vast amounts of TIME , and cause fewer pilgrimages to the Local Church .... !!!!
 

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