Rapid inside shoulder wear after tire puncture

Y

y_p_w

So I found a screw in my tire about 2 inches from the inside sidewall
of the left rear tire. It seemed a bit strange but I didn't
particularly think anything was wrong until I noticed that the tire
was a bit flat. So I inflated it, but the next morning it was down
again to about 13 PSI - where I then noticed the screw. The tires are
a full set of Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS in stock size - P205/55R16.

I figure that I was driving on this for a week or more. I took it to
two different places to see if it could be repaired - at least until I
was prepared to get another set of tires. Both places refused to do
it because of the inside shoulder wear. I figure it was because it
was riding flat for a while coupled with the negative camber. One of
the tire places tried to sell me on new tires, stating that there was
inside wear on all the tires. The other place simply recommended 4
new tires for any Subaru (which I do understand). I did look at the
inside shoulders, and on a second look the tread is actually in pretty
good condition with maybe a little bit of tread cracking. There might
have been a slightly higher wear on the insides. Definitely better
condition than when I had (asymmetric with the outside edge specified)
Pirelli PZero Nero M+S - those had extreme wear on the inside
shoulders. They Bridgestones have plenty of tread (maybe 5/32"-6/32"
all around) left - fine if I'm not driving on snow. If I could, I'd
just buy another tire and have it shaved.

So far I've been riding on the compact spare. I'm hearing this
"whooshing" sound coming from the rear. My first thought is that it's
the LSD. I'm hoping that I'm not destroying the LSD or the center
diff. I've been mostly taking it on local routes to avoid freeway
driving.

I wouldn't go nuts if I needed a new set. It's almost been 3 years
and over 26K miles - so I've gotten a good run out of these tires.
I've gotten some recommendations that tires should be changed well
before reaching the wear bars for better ride and wet weather
performance.
 
So I found a screw in my tire about 2 inches from the inside sidewall
of the left rear tire.  It seemed a bit strange but I didn't
particularly think anything was wrong until I noticed that the tire
was a bit flat.  So I inflated it, but the next morning it was down
again to about 13 PSI - where I then noticed the screw.  The tires are
a full set of Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS in stock size - P205/55R16.

I figure that I was driving on this for a week or more.  I took it to
two different places to see if it could be repaired - at least until I
was prepared to get another set of tires.  Both places refused to do
it because of the inside shoulder wear.  I figure it was because it
was riding flat for a while coupled with the negative camber.  One of
the tire places tried to sell me on new tires, stating that there was
inside wear on all the tires.  The other place simply recommended 4
new tires for any Subaru (which I do understand).  I did look at the
inside shoulders, and on a second look the tread is actually in pretty
good condition with maybe a little bit of tread cracking.  There might
have been a slightly higher wear on the insides.  Definitely better
condition than when I had (asymmetric with the outside edge specified)
Pirelli PZero Nero M+S - those had extreme wear on the inside
shoulders.  They Bridgestones have plenty of tread (maybe 5/32"-6/32"
all around) left - fine if I'm not driving on snow.  If I could, I'd
just buy another tire and have it shaved.

So far I've been riding on the compact spare.  I'm hearing this
"whooshing" sound coming from the rear.  My first thought is that it's
the LSD.  I'm hoping that I'm not destroying the LSD or the center
diff.  I've been mostly taking it on local routes to avoid freeway
driving.

I wouldn't go nuts if I needed a new set.  It's almost been 3 years
and over 26K miles - so I've gotten a good run out of these tires.
I've gotten some recommendations that tires should be changed well
before reaching the wear bars for better ride and wet weather
performance.

I may not understand all your concerns, but if you have an auto, you
should find a spot for a spare fuse in the box underhood to disable
the AWD clutchpack. But, yeah, you may very well be stressing the
drivetrain with 'torque bind'.

get 4 tires on there that are the same size/model/wear as soon as you
can.

Carl
 
I may not understand all your concerns, but if you have an auto, you
should find a spot for a spare fuse in the box underhood to disable
the AWD clutchpack. But, yeah, you may very well be stressing the
drivetrain with 'torque bind'.

My concern was that riding it too long on the compact spare was
affecting the center diff or the rear limited slip diff.

It's a 5-sp. I don't recall whether or not the auto version of the
2004 WRX has a FWD fuse.
get 4 tires on there that are the same size/model/wear as soon as you
can.

I finally took it someplace that was willing to patch the tire. They
looked at it really hard too, since all the grooves weren't anywhere
near the wear bars, but it was just that inside edge was heavily worn
(not quite bald). This shop apparently can get their warehouse
distributor to shave down a replacement tire. I had 7/32" on the
front and 6/32" on the rears, so they could probably shave it close to
that. It'll probably be less than 1/3 the total cost of a new set.
I'll probably do that as soon as I can.
 
Hi y_p_w!

So I found a screw in my tire about 2 inches from the inside sidewall
of the left rear tire. It seemed a bit strange but I didn't
particularly think anything was wrong until I noticed that the tire
was a bit flat. So I inflated it, but the next morning it was down
again to about 13 PSI - where I then noticed the screw. The tires are
a full set of Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS in stock size - P205/55R16.

I figure that I was driving on this for a week or more. I took it to
two different places to see if it could be repaired - at least until I
was prepared to get another set of tires. Both places refused to do
it because of the inside shoulder wear. I figure it was because it
was riding flat for a while coupled with the negative camber. One of
the tire places tried to sell me on new tires, stating that there was
inside wear on all the tires. The other place simply recommended 4
new tires for any Subaru (which I do understand). I did look at the
inside shoulders, and on a second look the tread is actually in pretty
good condition with maybe a little bit of tread cracking. There might
have been a slightly higher wear on the insides. Definitely better
condition than when I had (asymmetric with the outside edge specified)
Pirelli PZero Nero M+S - those had extreme wear on the inside
shoulders. They Bridgestones have plenty of tread (maybe 5/32"-6/32"
all around) left - fine if I'm not driving on snow. If I could, I'd
just buy another tire and have it shaved.

So far I've been riding on the compact spare. I'm hearing this
"whooshing" sound coming from the rear. My first thought is that it's
the LSD. I'm hoping that I'm not destroying the LSD or the center
diff. I've been mostly taking it on local routes to avoid freeway
driving.

I wouldn't go nuts if I needed a new set. It's almost been 3 years
and over 26K miles - so I've gotten a good run out of these tires.
I've gotten some recommendations that tires should be changed well
before reaching the wear bars for better ride and wet weather
performance.

Continued driving on the compact spare _will_ cause accelerated wear
(at least) to the LSD and/or center diff (another LSD, as it turns
out).

Nothing beats a fresh set of tires, but if you don't feel like parting
with $$$, I'd suggest getting a used tire (or a pair of 'em) in the
correct size with approximately the same wear, or use a cloth "sewing"
tape to measure actual circumference and try for as good of a match to
your existing rubber as possible.
In this part of the world (CO, USA), used tire + mount&balance =
$25-$30 or so. Try craigslist or the yellow pages.

FWIW, Tire Rack will shave tires for you for a modest extra charge.
($15?)

Hope this is helpful.

ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101
 
Hi y_p_w!

Well howdy!
Continued driving on the compact spare _will_ cause accelerated wear
(at least) to the LSD and/or center diff (another LSD, as it turns
out).

Like I said, I heard this whooshing sound. It was strange too. It
didn't start immediately. It took maybe a half second before it
started up. I figure it had something to do with the fluid doing its
thing. I looked up the cost of a new diff case. Under $200 without
the LSD. Under $700 for the unit with the LSD. I don't really do
much stuff where I really need an LSD save the occasional trip to
snowy areas. I'm wondering if I could just function fine if the fluid
has degraded to more or less open diff functionality.
Nothing beats a fresh set of tires, but if you don't feel like parting
with $$$, I'd suggest getting a used tire (or a pair of 'em) in the
correct size with approximately the same wear, or use a cloth "sewing"
tape to measure actual circumference and try for as good of a match to
your existing rubber as possible.
In this part of the world (CO, USA), used tire + mount&balance =
$25-$30 or so. Try craigslist or the yellow pages.

The tire shop said that they had experience with Subarus where one
tire couldn't be repaired and had some shaved before.
 FWIW, Tire Rack will shave tires for you for a modest extra charge.
($15?)

They say $25-35 depending on the tire for street tire shaving. I
would think you would probably need to talk to someone about it. I
was quoted $35 by a local tire shop. However - they earned a bunch of
goodwill from me for repairing a tire that nobody else would do and no
giving me a load of BS that my other tires had premature wear.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=18

I've seen that they list $15 to shave competition tires to a standard
depth. I'm guessing that they don't really shave all that much with
race tires that have little tread to begin with, and time on the tire
shaver costs money.
 
Well howdy!





Like I said, I heard this whooshing sound.  It was strange too.  It
didn't start immediately.  It took maybe a half second before it
started up.  I figure it had something to do with the fluid doing its
thing.  I looked up the cost of a new diff case.  Under $200 without
the LSD.  Under $700 for the unit with the LSD.  I don't really do
much stuff where I really need an LSD save the occasional trip to
snowy areas.  I'm wondering if I could just function fine if the fluid
has degraded to more or less open diff functionality.


The tire shop said that they had experience with Subarus where one
tire couldn't be repaired and had some shaved before.


They say $25-35 depending on the tire for street tire shaving.  I
would think you would probably need to talk to someone about it.  I
was quoted $35 by a local tire shop.  However - they earned a bunch of
goodwill from me for repairing a tire that nobody else would do and no
giving me a load of BS that my other tires had premature wear.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=18

I've seen that they list $15 to shave competition tires to a standard
depth.  I'm guessing that they don't really shave all that much with
race tires that have little tread to begin with, and time on the tire
shaver costs money.

There is definitely a 'law of diminishing returns' going on with tire
shaving. You're paying someone MORE money to create a 'used' tire to
keep from buying 3 more fresh tires. But sometimes you just need to
save the $$$.
 
Hi again, y_p_w!

On Aug 26, 3:50 pm, S <(e-mail address removed)> wrote:
Like I said, I heard this whooshing sound. It was strange too. It
didn't start immediately. It took maybe a half second before it
started up. I figure it had something to do with the fluid doing its
thing. I looked up the cost of a new diff case. Under $200 without
the LSD. Under $700 for the unit with the LSD. I don't really do
much stuff where I really need an LSD save the occasional trip to
snowy areas. I'm wondering if I could just function fine if the fluid
has degraded to more or less open diff functionality.

I've never had a Subaru rear diff apart, but the center diff (at least
the one on the early Forrys) is a viscous coupled thingie that fails
by slipping less and less to the point where you experience torque
bind in anything resembling a tight turn.

I put a junkyard tranny into my wifes car ('02 Forry, 5spd) earlier
this year, after replacing _both_ half-shafts (and one of 'em twice
'cause I just couldn't believe it was the120Kmile tranny at fault)
trying to eliminate the torque bind/clunk-clunk-clunk issue.
Replacement tranny cured it.

I pulled the original apart, removed the center diff (which couldn't
even be turned by hand it was so gummed up), soaked it in solvent for
a couple days, and re-assembled. Not difficult at all other than
getting the rear case to separate, which was kind of a b____ . . . I'm
betting that the tranny will work just fine now, and plan on putting
it into _my_ '99 Forester to test this theory sometime before winter
sets in. Need to put in a better clutch pressure plate anyway as the
el-cheapo ebay clutch I installed last year has issues. "Poor man buys
twice" they say.

The Rex kinda demands a performance tire, to keep up the image if
nothing else, but FWIW, the Ms. and I have both been very pleased with
the inexpensive Hankook all seasons we've had on our cars for the past
couple years. Sorta tough to really compare, but subjectively, I like
them considerably better than the funky OEM Bridgestones that came on
the '02 WRX I used to have. Not that that is saying much, alas, those
Bridgestones were poopoo. Had a set of Pirelli ice tires (Sotto Zero?)
on it one winter. They worked well, but wore very quickly. We live in
snow country, and run studded tires on the Forrys in the winter
months. Can you say "invincible"? Betcha! My 4Runner doesn't even
leave the driveway when there's ice -n- snow. Unless it's REAL deep
(more'n 18 inches or so), and I go to the effort to chain it up.
I've seen that they list $15 to shave competition tires to a standard
depth. I'm guessing that they don't really shave all that much with
race tires that have little tread to begin with, and time on the tire
shaver costs money.

Yea, that's where I remember seeing it; competition rubber. I guess it
makes sense that a street tire would take longer/cost more-er :)

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101
 
Hi again, y_p_w!
The Rex kinda demands a performance tire, to keep up the image if
nothing else, but FWIW, the Ms. and I have both been very pleased with
the inexpensive Hankook all seasons we've had on our cars for the past
couple years. Sorta tough to really compare, but subjectively, I like
them considerably better than the funky OEM Bridgestones that came on
the '02 WRX I used to have. Not that that is saying much, alas, those
Bridgestones were poopoo. Had a set of Pirelli ice tires (Sotto Zero?)
on it one winter. They worked well, but wore very quickly. We live in
snow country, and run studded tires on the Forrys in the winter
months. Can you say "invincible"? Betcha! My 4Runner doesn't even
leave the driveway when there's ice -n- snow. Unless it's REAL deep
(more'n 18 inches or so), and I go to the effort to chain it up.

The RE92 is notorious. Although it has a 160 treadwear rating, it's
also known to last a long time. It's likely ubiquitous because it's
got low rolling resistance (for EPA mileage testing) and manufacturers
get it really cheap.

I'm thinking of getting some new chains just in case. The Security
Chain Super Z6 seems interesting although it's pricey. I tried
installing some ladder type cable chains in the garage, and they were
an absolute pain getting them tight. I like the idea of a chain that
only needs to be fastened and then all the slack comes out with a
rubber chain tightener.
Yea, that's where I remember seeing it; competition rubber. I guess it
makes sense that a street tire would take longer/cost more-er  :)

Most of the competition tires seemed to be 6/32" starting tread depth,
and I think the standard shaving was down to 4/32". Most people
shaving down passenget tires probably want to trim maybe 4/32".

I found a manufacturer for the equipment. They call them "tire
truers":

http://www.amermac.com/truers.html
 

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