Outer (CV) joint Boot replacement

[Jeff and Connie]

My left outer front half shaft boot just let go. Grease everywhere! Last
month I replaced the inner boot on the same shaft. I was able to do that job
with out pulling the shaft from the hub.

The manual shows a puller being needed to remove the axle. Is this true?
Any help on the procedure would be greatly appreciated. the Chilton manual
flat sucks.

 

[Ed Fortmiller]

My left outer front half shaft boot just let go. Grease everywhere! Last
month I replaced the inner boot on the same shaft. I was able to do that job
with out pulling the shaft from the hub.

In the future it is probably wise to replace both inner and outer at the
same time.

The manual shows a puller being needed to remove the axle. Is this true?
Any help on the procedure would be greatly appreciated. the Chilton manual
flat sucks.

Not sure what year vehicle you have. I take the axle in and out on my '82
without the puller. It is easier to push out than to pull back in. To get it
back in I have assembled a few washers and spacers that I use along with the
existing nut to pull it back in.

I have change the outer boots without pulling the axle but that is not fun.

Something else I learned is that the genuine Subaru boots seem to be of a
higher quality rubber and last longer than the NAPA, etc boots. At least
that was my experience a few years ago.

--
Ed Fortmiller | (e-mail address removed) | Hudson MA
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[Ed Rachner]

Good advice from the previous poster. More available at
http://server2.ezboard.com/bultimatesubarumessageboards

 

[Jeff and Connie]

I still need to know how to get the Axle out of the hub? Special tools?
The inner boot is no issue as that can be done while the axle is still
attached at the wheel end.

Jeff

 

[Ed Fortmiller]

I still need to know how to get the Axle out of the hub? Special tools?
The inner boot is no issue as that can be done while the axle is still
attached at the wheel end.

On my '82 I loosen the nut to the end of the shaft and tap the axle loose
and then take the nut off and push/tap it the rest of the way. Better to use
a brass hammer.

--
Ed Fortmiller | (e-mail address removed) | Hudson MA
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[Ed Fortmiller]

"(e-mail address removed)"

I'm not so sure about this advice.....I've replaced dozens of boots on
many makes and models of (mostly asian) cars. The inner boots only
have to contend with a small arc of up and down movement of the wheel
whereas the outers have to handle a much larger degree of movement
from steering angles. Also, the inner joints are usually located
where they are somewhat shielded from road debris, while the outer
ones are right in the line of fire from all sorts of junk. This is
only a guess, but I think that I have replaced 20 outer boots for
every inner boot.

It is such a pain to change them and since you have to take the inner boot
off to do the outer it is well worth it to change both at the same time. But
you are right that the inners usually go first.

--
Ed Fortmiller | (e-mail address removed) | Hudson MA
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[Ed Fortmiller]

Personally, I feel most of the time, the minimal $ savings changing the boot
isn't worth the extra PITA vs. just replacing the half-shaft with a lifetime
warrented replacement.

Beware of aftermarket axles. My brother works in a Scoobie shop and on
occassion they have put in after market axles trying to save the customer
some $$$s and many times they had out of balance problems with them and had
to redo the job.

On my '82 I was having a vibration in the front end which I could not get
rid of. Finally discovered it was an out of balance axle and when I pulled
it out it turned out to be an aftermarket unit that someone had put in
before I bought the car. I replaced it with a genuine Subaru axle and the
vibration went away.

--
Ed Fortmiller | (e-mail address removed) | Hudson MA
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* To avoid getting a lot of SPAM junk mail, I have altered my REPLY-TO
* address. PLEASE remove the leading "RUBBISH" from my REPLY address.
* Any Email sent to the address without removing "RUBBISH" will
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[someone]

Beware of aftermarket axles. My brother works in a Scoobie shop and on
occassion they have put in after market axles trying to save the customer
some $$$s and many times they had out of balance problems with them and had
to redo the job.

I've replaced several in my own cars, and many in customers vehicles, and
NEVER had a problem.

 

[Bill Putney]

I'm not so sure about this advice.....I've replaced dozens of boots on
many makes and models of (mostly asian) cars. The inner boots only
have to contend with a small arc of up and down movement of the wheel
whereas the outers have to handle a much larger degree of movement
from steering angles. Also, the inner joints are usually located
where they are somewhat shielded from road debris, while the outer
ones are right in the line of fire from all sorts of junk. This is
only a guess, but I think that I have replaced 20 outer boots for
every inner boot...

That's true, but the OP had just changed the *inner*, so in *that* case,
it probably would have been a good idea to replace the outer, or replace
the half shaft (except you risk getting a crappy aftermarket one when
your original one may be in great shape).

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

[Bill Putney]

Ed Fortmiller wrote:

...But you are right that the inners usually go first.

You meant to say "outers" right? 8^)

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

[Bill Putney]

I've replaced several in my own cars, and many in customers vehicles, and
NEVER had a problem.

I've seen *LOTS* of discussion on another Subaru forum about this, and
apparently it is not uncommon to get bad (meaning worn out joints and
improperly rebuilt) remans. Some rebuilders are better about this than
others. It seems to be consistently felt that NAPA does a better job of
screening suppliers of things like this than most chains stores - IOW,
most people have good experience with NAPA remans, and also that the
dealer is usually another good source.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

[S]

Hi Jeff, Connie, All!

I still need to know how to get the Axle out of the hub?

If all you want to do is replace the boot, you do not need to remove
the axle. The procedure somewhat depends on model and year.
Generically, remove the roll pin holding the axle to the stub shaft on
the tranny. Separate the hub from the lower ball joint by removing the
pinch bolt, spreading the socket a bit, and prying with a large
pry-bar. Separate the tie rod end from the hub by loosening the nut
and giving a sharp rap with a hammer. Pull the hub away from the
tranny to separate the axle from the stub shaft. Remove the clamps
from the inner boot, and slide it back from the joint. Using a small
screwdriver, remove the retaining ring from the inside of the outer
housing of the joint, (you'll see what I'm talking about when you get
that far) and slide the shell off of the bearing "spider". Remove the
snap ring holding the spider to the axle shaft, and remove the spider.
You can now replace the outer boot. Clean everything, and pack in as
much fresh grease as you have patience for. Reassembly is the reverse.
Should you want to pull the axle, before you do any of the above,
relieve the nut staking, and remove the axle nut. On older Soobies
there is a split conical washer to provide additional challenges.
After you separate the axle from the tranny, you will be able to slide
the axle inwards and out of the hub and bearings. Maybe. In all
likelihood, you will need to use a large gear puller. Newer cars have
the shaft splines arranged differently, which allows you to place the
puller jaws on the brake rotor and push without loading the bearings.
Older cars will require that you remove the brake caliper and rotor,
and put the jaws on the hub. This results in side loading the bearings
when you attempt to push. Gentle pressure is acceptable here, but
resist the temptation to exert significant force or hammer on the axle
end unless you want to replace the bearings as well. If gentle
persuasion fails, resign yourself to replacing the bearings.
Disconnect the hub from the bottom of the strut, and toss the whole
assembly up on your workbench to make life with the puller a little
easier. If the hub/axle spline area has significant rust/corrosion you
will probably save yourself a good deal of effort and frustration by
making a trip to your friendly neighborhood junkyard for a complete
assembly; I have seen them absolutely refuse to come apart due to
corrosion, and have mangled pullers, knuckles, temper, and any chances
of passing thru the Pearly Gates while trying ;-)
Once this far, it is probably easier, and definitely cleaner to
reassemble the bearings/hub/axle on the bench, and reinstall it as an
assembly. Hope this is helpful, feel free to contact me directly with
specific questions.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[someone]

Hi Jeff, Connie, All!



If all you want to do is replace the boot, you do not need to remove
the axle. The procedure somewhat depends on model and year.
Generically, remove the roll pin holding the axle to the stub shaft on
the tranny. Separate the hub from the lower ball joint by removing the
pinch bolt, spreading the socket a bit, and prying with a large
pry-bar.

I usually just take the ball joint stud nut loose and seperate ball joint
from control arm instead of taking it loose at the spindle, but either
works, i guess.

Separate the tie rod end from the hub by loosening the > nut
and giving a sharp rap with a hammer. Pull the hub away from the
tranny to separate the axle from the stub shaft. Remove the clamps
from the inner boot, and slide it back from the joint. Using a small
screwdriver, remove the retaining ring from the inside of the outer
housing of the joint, (you'll see what I'm talking about when you get
that far) and slide the shell off of the bearing "spider". Remove the
snap ring holding the spider to the axle shaft, and remove the spider.
You can now replace the outer boot. Clean everything, and pack in as
much fresh grease as you have patience for. Reassembly is the reverse.

While this is OK, it certainly makes cleaning the joints and repacking them
properly tougher than just removing the axle from the vehicle

Should you want to pull the axle, before you do any of the above,
relieve the nut staking, and remove the axle nut. On older Soobies
there is a split conical washer to provide additional challenges.

Not generally much of a challenge, after removing the axle nut, usually a
quick rap on the axle pops the conical washer loose, then pull it out with a
magnet.

After you separate the axle from the tranny, you will be able to slide
the axle inwards and out of the hub and bearings. Maybe. In all
likelihood, you will need to use a large gear puller.

I've done many axles, but I've NEVER used a gear puller. Put the axle nut
back on flush with the end of the axle and smack a few times with a hammer,
loosens 'em right up. Take the nut back off and either pull or gently tap
the axle out of the hub.


Newer cars have

the shaft splines arranged differently, which allows you to place the
puller jaws on the brake rotor and push without loading the bearings.
Older cars will require that you remove the brake caliper and rotor,
and put the jaws on the hub. This results in side loading the bearings
when you attempt to push. Gentle pressure is acceptable here, but
resist the temptation to exert significant force or hammer on the axle
end unless you want to replace the bearings as well. If gentle
persuasion fails, resign yourself to replacing the bearings.

I've never had to, and I don't recall any of the tech I've worked with
needing to replace wheel bearings from changing an axle on a Subaru or any
other vehicle, after using a hammer to persuade the axle out of the hub.
I've done, and seen quite a few changed over the years working in a
Subaru/GM garage, as well as a couple independant shops and even a 'chain
shop'