Opinions on roof top bike racks

S

SuperPoo

I am looking for a roof-top bike rack for my 2002 WRX wagon and would like
some opinions. Is the Subaru rack any good, which after-market racks are
good, how many bikes can the rack hold-- any info that would be helpful in
making a buying decision. Thanks.

Steve
 
SuperPoo said:
I am looking for a roof-top bike rack for my 2002 WRX wagon and would like
some opinions. Is the Subaru rack any good, which after-market racks are
good, how many bikes can the rack hold-- any info that would be helpful in
making a buying decision. Thanks.

Steve

If I'm not mistaken, the Subaru rack is made by Yakima, and would have round
bars. While I've heard that they make a good quality system, I also heard
that due to the round bars, accessories tend to rotate on the bars. I went
with the Thule rack because it has square bars. The prices were very similar
where I live, so it basically came down to round or square. To be fair,
though, I have heard that the round bars are a little stronger. As far as
how many bikes, that is mostly limited by bar length, and that by the width
of you car. I only carry one on mine, but I should be able to get four
fairly easily.

I think it makes a difference whether or not you have the factory rack. My
Thule mounts right to the factory rack.

Tonyrama
'95 Outback
 
SuperPoo said:
I am looking for a roof-top bike rack for my 2002 WRX wagon and would like
some opinions. Is the Subaru rack any good, which after-market racks are
good, how many bikes can the rack hold-- any info that would be helpful in
making a buying decision. Thanks.

Steve
Thule vs. Yakima...they really are all about the same. The bike shop I used
to work at sold Thule opposed to Yakima. The reason was availability. We
were about 20 minutes from Thule USA in Connecticut. I highly recommend
getting one that goes "into" the factory rack as opposed to "onto" the rack
or clamping to the roofline. The factory (onto) bike carriers limit you to
what you can do. It's much too easy to steal the clamped on ones.

I have the Thule "tracker" going onto my OEM rack after the Thule "Aero
Foot" setup got PRYED off the roof leaving $400 in damages. I installed the
OEM rack on my 97 Impreza wagon, it is held on by a total of eight
1/4-20(ish) machine screws, two each fore and aft on each side. The OEM
rack says it's rated for 150lbs.

With the tracker setup, I have two fork mount bike carriers and a narrowed
luggage basket (Thule581). On a 6 week road trip I carried two bikes,
firewood, and two dry bags full of clothes and such with no problem save for
MUCH decreased gas mileage. An added plus, you can remove and refit really
easy for the car wash, long trips, what have you.

Shamus
 
snip
I highly recommend
getting one that goes "into" the factory rack as opposed to "onto" the rack
or clamping to the roofline. The factory (onto) bike carriers limit you to
what you can do. It's much too easy to steal the clamped on ones.

I have the Thule "tracker" going onto my OEM rack after the Thule "Aero
Foot" setup got PRYED off the roof leaving $400 in damages.
snip

For the one that got pryed off was that mounted to the factory bars or the
roof edge, if you don't mind me asking?

TIA
F. Plant
 
SuperPoo said:
I am looking for a roof-top bike rack for my 2002 WRX wagon and would like
some opinions. Is the Subaru rack any good, which after-market racks are
good, how many bikes can the rack hold-- any info that would be helpful in
making a buying decision. Thanks.

Steve

I have a 2003 WRX wagon and use a Yakima Boa (fork) mount. Up to 4 bikes can
be carried with the 48" crossbars. If you mount the bikes to far to the rear
of the roof you won't be able to fully open the rear hatch because the spoiler
hits the bikes. So the best rack setup is a rear crossbar that attaches to the
factory roof rails with the "Lowrider" mounts. And a front crossbar that
attaches to the door frame with "Q clips". This setup will work perfectly and
allows the rear hatch to open even with 4 bikes on top. The fork mount is a
lot more stable than carrying the bikes with both wheels attached.
 
tonyrama said:
If I'm not mistaken, the Subaru rack is made by Yakima, and would have round
bars. While I've heard that they make a good quality system, I also heard
that due to the round bars, accessories tend to rotate on the bars.

I know this line of thinking floats around, but I have the Yakima racks
on my Foresters and have never had a problem with that unless I didn't snug
the clamps down well enough. They can be torqued pretty hard with no
apparent loss of function or durability, and once done, they hold very
tightly. I also like the fact that the round bars allow me to rotate the
spare bike wheel to exactly the angle I want it to run, rather than just
straight upwards. These are not major issues to some people, so you have to
decide that yourself. And Thule and Yakima ARE both good rack systems.
I went
with the Thule rack because it has square bars. The prices were very similar
where I live, so it basically came down to round or square. To be fair,
though, I have heard that the round bars are a little stronger.

I've heard that too, but can't confirm or deny it. I've had no strength
concerns with my Yakima bars, and have hauled some pretty hefty lumber on
top on occasion.
As far as
how many bikes, that is mostly limited by bar length, and that by the width
of you car. I only carry one on mine, but I should be able to get four
fairly easily.

You can choose from several widths of bars, but be sure you consider how
much you want sticking out beyond the sides of your car if you choose
something long. Mine are 48" wide, and suit me fine. Should fit the WRX
fairly similarly as the Forester, I would guess.
I suggest getting locking fork mounts, but do check out how they work
with your forks, as some forks may put disc brakes so low on the fork that
they cannot fit into a fork mount because they hit the tray (if you use a
tray type.) I don't know if that is a non-factor now, but I have run across
it. Pretty dumb planning on the part of the fork maker and/or the rack
maker, I think. (I blame the fork maker mainly because fork mount racks have
been around much longer than these suspension fork designs.)
 
F. Plant said:
snip
I highly recommend
snip

For the one that got pryed off was that mounted to the factory bars or the
roof edge, if you don't mind me asking?

TIA
F. Plant
The one that got pried off was clamped to the roofline using the Thule Aero
Foot setup.
(http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/images/lineart/400_366H.jpg)

I put on the factory rack and Thule Tracker after that fiasco.

I also had one pried off my Honda Accord that was clamped to the gutter.
(http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/images/lineart/300_365H.jpg)

The Tracker setup
(http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/images/lineart/430_461H.jpg) makes it easy
to remove/refit, so if I go to a sketch area, or leave my car in an airport
lot for days, I just take it off and leave it home. The setup is a quick
disconnect so the lining up of the rack is a no-brainer.

Shamus
 
SuperPoo said:
Hi everyone, thanks for the info.

Steve

When I got my wagon, I bought a killer Thule setup, brought it home and
installed it only to figure out that the fork mount trays stuck too far out
the back. The rear spoiler hit the rack when I tried to open the rear
hatch. I took it back and got the Subaru rack, made by Yakima. It bolts
cleanly to the crossbars (which came as an option on my car) with Torx
screws. It grabs and locks to the downtube. No complaints about it after
one year.

Jerry
 
Shamus in CO said:
snip
The one that got pried off was clamped to the roofline using the Thule Aero
Foot setup.
(http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/images/lineart/400_366H.jpg)

I put on the factory rack and Thule Tracker after that fiasco.

I also had one pried off my Honda Accord that was clamped to the gutter.
(http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/images/lineart/300_365H.jpg)

The Tracker setup
(http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/images/lineart/430_461H.jpg) makes it easy
to remove/refit, so if I go to a sketch area, or leave my car in an airport
lot for days, I just take it off and leave it home. The setup is a quick
disconnect so the lining up of the rack is a no-brainer.

The one I would be considering is (Watch for wrap)
http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/instructions/501538402, 415, 4152.pdf

with the locks -to keep honest people honest. How do you think this model
would stack up against what you have used?
TIA
F.plant
 
F. Plant said:
The one I would be considering is (Watch for wrap)
http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/instructions/501538402, 415, 4152.pdf

with the locks -to keep honest people honest. How do you think this model
would stack up against what you have used?
TIA
F.plant
Sorry to say, keeping the honest honest isn't as easy as it used to be. The
cap that holds the lock is plastic. From experience (a customer lost the
key and HAD to get the rack off, NOW) all it takes is a claw hammer to get
those off. Looking at the Thule website, if you've got a MY02 or newer, you
are limited to the 751 or the 415. I've zero knowledge of the workings of
the 751. It looks cool, but a slotted load bar? Go to a shop that has
experience (read: god-given-intelligence) with Thule and see if they can fit
a Tracker to your car. Keeping the weight of the rack on the factory rack's
mount has got to be safer than on the bars.

Shamus
 

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