One popular myth?

G

gamo

There is a myth (?) that if you don't drive at high speeds,
the engine of your car will loose power in hp. True?

Thanks in advance,
 
There is a myth (?) that if you don't drive at high speeds,
the engine of your car will loose power in hp. True?

Thanks in advance,

Can you be more specific? At first, I'd be inclined to say - no.
Certainly 'speed' (the car's velocity) itself is not necessary to keep
an engine in good operating condition.

But, very short distance trips in which the car never (or very
infrequently) reaches operating temp can have detrimental effects. And
driving such that the engine is always at a fairly low RPM (but not
necessarily the car's 'speed') can have detrimental effects.
 
There is a myth (?) that if you don't drive at high speeds,
the engine of your car will loose power in hp. True?

Thanks in advance,

Can you be more specific? At first, I'd be inclined to say - no.
Certainly 'speed' (the car's velocity) itself is not necessary to keep
an engine in good operating condition.
--------------------

No, I can't be more precise.

Another alternative to the myth could be to run at certain rpm's
to preserve the motor.
 
Can you be more specific? At first, I'd be inclined to say - no.
Certainly 'speed' (the car's velocity) itself is not necessary to keep
an engine in good operating condition.
 --------------------

No, I can't be more precise.

Another alternative to the myth could be to run at certain rpm's
to preserve the motor.

I know every manufacturer's owners manual I've seen encourages varying
RPMs during new engine 'break-in' period.
 
There is a myth (?) that if you don't drive at high speeds,
the engine of your car will loose power in hp. True?

Thanks in advance,

I've heard of people claiming that running an engine hard for a few
minutes straight every once in a while will help it by purging soot
and carbon deposits from the cylinders and valves. This can be
accomplished by running it up a long steep inclince for a while, like
a mountain climb, or by going fast for a few miles on the interstate.
I think that might be a myth in itself though. With today's engines
and gasolines, which have detergents, soot and carbon build-up isn't
much of an issue. It would seem that nowadays it is more an excuse to
drive a car hard than a reason to drive a car hard. But that's just my
opinion. I'm open to changing it if someone can presetna good
argument to me. I'm curious what that might be. Just a few weeks ago
someone (nobody?) posted something suggesting a lengthy bit of running
an engine hard will help fill the hydraulic lifters. I could see how
this MIGHT degrade engine performance if your lifters were nearly dry.
But I'm not actually sure that the tolerance taken up by hte hydraulic
pressure in a hydraulic lifter is just to keep the valve snugged up to
the cam, or if it is enough that missing fluid would actually cause
the valve to open less. I imagine that might vary from engine to
engine. Anyone know?

Bill
 
There is a myth (?) that if you don't drive at high speeds,
the engine of your car will loose power in hp. True?

Thanks in advance,

The rotaries (rx-8) seem to get stronger as they age.
but the more mundane ic engines are slowly loosing
power as they age no matter how you wring them.
Besides, with the all american reliance on automatics
and engines subsequently working at half of their capacity who
would really give a ****, honestly.
 
Besides, with the all american reliance on automatics
and engines subsequently working at half of their capacity who
would really give a ****, honestly.

Woo Hoo, that was a real opinion, thank you, it reminds me of the good
old days.

Nils
 
WTF would anyone want a stick shift on a non high performance car? No
warranty, no mpg gains, hands off the wheel and driver fatigue leading
to accidents.
 
WTF would anyone want a stick shift on a non high performance car? No
warranty, no mpg gains, hands off the wheel and driver fatigue leading
to accidents.

Just because that's the way you drive a stick, that doesn't mean others
do. My OBS came with a warranty, don't know about the difference in mpg,
doesn't matter much since we all have to run scam gas in Wisconsin. Do
you really take both hands off the wheel to shift? How fatigued does
your foot get from pushing in the clutch several times an hour?

David
 
WTF would anyone want a stick shift on a non high performance car?  No
warranty, no mpg gains, hands off the wheel and driver fatigue leading
to accidents.




- Show quoted text -

Well, I drive a slow non-performance car. The reason I wanted the
manual is BECAUSE it has no power. The manual makes the most of the
little power it has.

I don't know about your mileage claims. Since most manual transmission
cars get better mileage than their auto counterparts, or at least that
was the way it was until quite recently, but I'm not shelling out the
money for a car built in the last five years.

I don't know what warranty stuff you're talking about. They are
covered under a warranty just like an auto would be. If you abuse
them, then that isn't covered, but just learn how to drive one.

As for hands off the wheel and driver fatigue, if you are getting
fatigued to the point of causing an accident just from the extra work
of moving a shift lever and your left foot, you shouldn't be driving.

Perhaps if you were to learn to drive a stick properly, you'd
understand the answers to your questions. You sound more like someobdy
who toasted their manual transmission doing stupid stuff, then when
they found out that destroying one's car by doing stupid stuff isn't
covered under warranty, they became bitter to the idea of a manual,
and now wants to complain. For those of us who learned to drive one
well, it is a satifying thing to have more control over the car, save
gas, be able to push start or bump start the car if the battery dies,
decide to start in second in snow to reduce wheel spin, downshift into
a corner to use engine braking, not have to wait for a slow
transmission to shift down, and--for some--to have the opportunity to
pull off a nice heel-toe downshift while trailbraking. This can be
done with any car, whether performance oriented or not.
 
WTF would anyone want a stick shift on a non high performance car? No
warranty, no mpg gains, hands off the wheel and driver fatigue leading
to accidents.




- Show quoted text -

Well, I drive a slow non-performance car. The reason I wanted the
manual is BECAUSE it has no power. The manual makes the most of the
little power it has.

I don't know about your mileage claims. Since most manual transmission
cars get better mileage than their auto counterparts, or at least that
was the way it was until quite recently, but I'm not shelling out the
money for a car built in the last five years.

I don't know what warranty stuff you're talking about. They are
covered under a warranty just like an auto would be. If you abuse
them, then that isn't covered, but just learn how to drive one.

As for hands off the wheel and driver fatigue, if you are getting
fatigued to the point of causing an accident just from the extra work
of moving a shift lever and your left foot, you shouldn't be driving.

Perhaps if you were to learn to drive a stick properly, you'd
understand the answers to your questions. You sound more like someobdy
who toasted their manual transmission doing stupid stuff, then when
they found out that destroying one's car by doing stupid stuff isn't
covered under warranty, they became bitter to the idea of a manual,
and now wants to complain. For those of us who learned to drive one
well, it is a satifying thing to have more control over the car, save
gas, be able to push start or bump start the car if the battery dies,
decide to start in second in snow to reduce wheel spin, downshift into
a corner to use engine braking, not have to wait for a slow
transmission to shift down, and--for some--to have the opportunity to
pull off a nice heel-toe downshift while trailbraking. This can be
done with any car, whether performance oriented or not.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I had an '86 GL with a 3 speed automatic and also a '92 Loyale with a 3
speed automatic and I thought I would have to get out and push. I had a 5
speed on an '85 4WD Turbo and irregardless of the turbo, the 5 speed made
quite a difference in the power. I now have a 2000 Forester with 4 speed
automatic which is vastly superior to the former configurations. My point
is that the better gearing of a manual transmission is sometimes much
superior to the slower automatic.
 
Well, I drive a slow non-performance car. The reason I wanted the
manual is BECAUSE it has no power. The manual makes the most of the
little power it has.

I don't know about your mileage claims. Since most manual transmission
cars get better mileage than their auto counterparts, or at least that
was the way it was until quite recently, but I'm not shelling out the
money for a car built in the last five years.

I don't know what warranty stuff you're talking about.


I think he meant no additional warranty benefit.

Shifting can be a distraction, over time does
indeed contribute to some fatigue, certainly to
many accidents.

Manual can be fun and makes better use of power.

I think age and type of driving also play a role
in ones preference. Personaly, I wouldn't want to
drive a stick shift to work as I like to concentrate
and focus a bit before the workday begins (need no
distractions no matter how small). On the other
hand, I would hate to drive an automatic on weekends
when its time for some fum.

As you may suspect, I drive both an auto and a
manual.

Basia
 
Shifting can be a distraction, over time does
indeed contribute to some fatigue, certainly to
many accidents.

I can see the shifting fatigue issue for big-rig truckers, but it's not
really an issue for lighter vehicles with only one gearbox to "stir".

About the only exception to that would be extensive driving in 'Frisco
because of the hills and stoplights .

(I used San Fransisco as an example, but downtown Seattle is similar)

It's too bad that the "hill-holder" concept for manual-trans vehicles
never caught on. Avoiding "rollback" at intersections is most of the
stress and fatigue in driving a manual in hilly cities. It's not bad if
you can easily heel-and-toe the pedals, but that concept never seemed to
catch on with American car designers......




--
"Shit this is it, all the pieces do fit.
We're like that crazy old man jumping
out of the alleyway with a baseball bat,
saying, "Remember me motherfucker?"
Jim “Dandy” Mangrum
 
I can see the  shifting fatigue issue for big-rig truckers, but it's not
really an issue for lighter vehicles with only one gearbox to "stir".

About the only exception to that would be extensive driving in 'Frisco
because of the hills and stoplights .

(I used San Fransisco as an example, but downtown Seattle is similar)

It's too bad that the "hill-holder" concept for manual-trans vehicles
never caught on. Avoiding "rollback" at intersections is most of the
stress and fatigue in driving a manual in hilly cities. It's not bad if
you can easily heel-and-toe the pedals, but that concept never seemed to
catch on with American car designers......

--
"Shit this is it, all the pieces do fit.
  We're like that crazy old man jumping
out of the alleyway with a baseball bat,
saying, "Remember me motherfucker?"
Jim “Dandy” Mangrum

I think the Forester was that last soob to have a hill-holder. Don't
recall the year. I wonder if they have that in any non-US models?

Even in Texas, I've had a few occasions where I used the handbrake as
a hill-holder until the clutch started pulling.
 
I think the Forester was that last soob to have a hill-holder. Don't
recall the year. I wonder if they have that in any non-US models?

ISTR that it was the very early Fartsters, and even then it was a
well-hidden option, seldom seen on "lot-stock" vehicles.

My brother bought his '86 1600 4wd S00b wagon 'off the lot' without the
hill-holder option, and IIRC none on the lot had it. Retrofitting the
s00b parts for it was a hassle, so he bought some electromagnetic
kludge kit hanging on the pedals from JC Whitney. That lasted about a
week... it was ripped out and trashed.
Even in Texas, I've had a few occasions where I used the handbrake as
a hill-holder until the clutch started pulling.

That's not too bad if it's a center-lever handbrake, but still can be a
clusterf**k when you get frazzled in traffic.

Drifting slightly away.. but still part of this....

Why can't this be integrated into the ABS system? They are already using
the ABS for all sorts of "brake modulation" as in anti-spin and vehicle
stabilization, it should be a no-brainer.
(It probably is being used in some systems but nobody outright says it's
doing "hillholder" stuff)

Offf-roaders have done this for years manually, I think the first one
was a '50s Jeepfreak who stuck a electromagnetic brakeline solenoid
valve in his CJ3 after seeing one on a forklift.

It was known as the pushbutton brake trick.

That was one of the first mods I did on my M38A1 back in the '60s. I
only did the 'single" (all 4 wheels), but I've seen the ratsnests of
brakelines with individual solenoids for each wheel.




--
"Shit this is it, all the pieces do fit.
We're like that crazy old man jumping
out of the alleyway with a baseball bat,
saying, "Remember me motherfucker?"
Jim “Dandy” Mangrum
 
ISTR that it was the very early Fartsters, and even then it was a
well-hidden option, seldom seen on "lot-stock" vehicles.

My brother bought his '86 1600 4wd S00b wagon 'off the lot' without the
hill-holder option, and IIRC none on the lot had it. Retrofitting the
s00b parts for it was a hassle, so he bought some electromagnetic
kludge kit hanging on the pedals from JC Whitney. That lasted about a
week... it was ripped out and trashed.


That's not too bad if it's a center-lever handbrake, but still can be a
clusterf**k when you get frazzled in traffic.

Drifting slightly away.. but still part of this....

Why can't this be integrated into the ABS system? They are already using
the ABS for all sorts of "brake modulation" as in anti-spin and vehicle
stabilization, it should be a no-brainer.
(It probably is being used in some systems but nobody outright says it's
doing "hillholder" stuff)

Offf-roaders have done this for years manually, I think the first one
was a '50s Jeepfreak who stuck a electromagnetic brakeline solenoid
valve in his CJ3 after seeing one on a forklift.

It was known as the pushbutton brake trick.

That was one of the first mods I did on my M38A1 back in the '60s. I
only did the 'single" (all 4 wheels), but I've seen the ratsnests of
brakelines with individual solenoids for each wheel.

--
"Shit this is it, all the pieces do fit.
  We're like that crazy old man jumping
out of the alleyway with a baseball bat,
saying, "Remember me motherfucker?"
Jim “Dandy” Mangrum- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Wow. I had no idea they did away with the hill holder feature. Seemed
like a great feature to me despite the fact that I have it, but don't
actually use it.

Both my 95 and my 98 have it, and they are just plain legacy L wagons.
Nothing fancy with their cloth seats and 2.2 liter engines. My 95 I
picked up on Ebay and drove up to NY from MD to pick it up, I had an
instance where I needed to turn around and pulled into a slightly
uphill driveway, pressed the brakes and clutch in, let off the brakes
but held in the clutch, expecting to drift backward out of the
driveway where I would put it in first, and drive off. The car didn't
move upon releasing the brake. I thought I had a hung caliper or
something causing excessive friction. Being that I had bought the car
sight unseen I felt kind of foolish and was pissed at myself. I then
spotted a car coming and decided to wait, so let the clutch out to
save the throwout bearing. The car started rolling backward. This
stumped me until I remembered the old subaru commercial where a truck
pulls up behind a lady waiting at a light in a subaru on a steep hill
and sits about three inches off her rear bumper. She confidently pulls
away because of the hill holder feature. The subaru unit is all
mechanical. There is no solenoid valve. It's a mechanically operated
valve.
 

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