Oil Consumption / Marvel Oil

  • Thread starter RST Engineering
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RST Engineering

In another vehicle application (which I can't talk about for obvious
reasons) we treat high oil consumption engines with a mix of regular engine
oil and Marvel Mystery Oil 50:50 for an oil change. We run the HELL out of
the engines with this mix for a hundred hours, and 95% of the engines loosen
up the oil rings and get back to normal oil usage.

Does this work for the Soob 2.5L engine?

Jim
 
RST Engineering said:
In another vehicle application (which I can't talk about for obvious
reasons) we treat high oil consumption engines with a mix of regular
engine oil and Marvel Mystery Oil 50:50 for an oil change. We run the
HELL out of the engines with this mix for a hundred hours, and 95% of the
engines loosen up the oil rings and get back to normal oil usage.

Does this work for the Soob 2.5L engine?

Jim
Sure does! works best with mothballs in the gas tank, some recapped tires
and some sawdust in the rear end to quiet the loose gears.
Also add some "Bar's Stop Leak" to the coolant system to make sure it don't
leak.If the battery is a little on the weak side (have to jump start it a
few times a week) just flush that battery out with a garden hose and refill
it.

ARE YOU KIDDING? if that's how "WE" service an engine at your place I
wouldn't take a bicycle to you for repair/ tune-up....
 
I feel this would be an excellent way to destroy a modern high
compression engine. If you feel the ring packs are fouled and the
engine is cruded up I would go with "Auto-Rx" for the cleanup.
www.Auto-rx.com Ed
 
Edward Hayes said:
I feel this would be an excellent way to destroy a modern high compression
engine.

I'm coming to the conclusion that modern engines are so different than the
old chunks of iron we old-timers are used to that what you posted should be
on the wall of every DIYers work garage. The old ways are sure to ruin a
modern engine.

Mike
 
RST said:
the engines with this mix for a hundred hours, and 95% of the engines > loosen up the oil rings and get back to normal oil usage.

And the other 5%? Do they grenade themselves or what?

Rick
 
No, they are simply so coked up that you could soak the rings in lacquer
thinner and they wouldn't loosen up. Top overhaul time.

Jim
 
Mike ...

I'm curious. As one of those "old timers" who cut their teeth on straight-6
chevies without pressure rod bearings ("scoop" system) I'd like to know how
the "old ways" will ruin a modern engine. Last time I looked, modern
engines still worked on the suck-squeeze-bang-blow routine with large pieces
of iron flailing about wildly. Lots of round parts, practically no square
parts, and a few elliptical parts.

I seem to remember a comment also about "modern high-compression engines" in
this thread. My book has the 2.5L as a 9.7:1 motor which isn't enough of
"high compression" to warrant anything but plain old 87 octane regular gas.

Hey, I'm here to learn, not to argue, but I like some basis for
understanding what I hear. As the saying goes, I keep an open mind, but not
so open that my brains fall out.

Jim
 
RST Engineering said:
Mike ...

I'm curious. As one of those "old timers" who cut their teeth on
straight-6 chevies without pressure rod bearings ("scoop" system) I'd like
to know how the "old ways" will ruin a modern engine. Last time I looked,
modern engines still worked on the suck-squeeze-bang-blow routine with
large pieces of iron flailing about wildly. Lots of round parts,
practically no square parts, and a few elliptical parts.

I seem to remember a comment also about "modern high-compression engines"
in this thread. My book has the 2.5L as a 9.7:1 motor which isn't enough
of "high compression" to warrant anything but plain old 87 octane regular
gas.

Hey, I'm here to learn, not to argue, but I like some basis for
understanding what I hear. As the saying goes, I keep an open mind, but
not so open that my brains fall out.

Jim
I tend to agree, to a point. There is little difference between the way
older cars and today's modern cars work. Today's cars are just more
complicated when it comes to fuel delivery, and the electrical systems
contain more electronic parts to make them more reliable.

I would try the new oils that are made for high-mileage cars to cut down on
consumption and increase compression. From what I'm told, these are not
mystery oils, but just heavier blends to make up for the wear.

BTW, when I worked at a place that has a forklift, we used to drain the oil
periodically and run a solvent through it for about 10 minutes, then replace
the oil. A lot of crap came out, but I'm not sure if it did a lot of good.
 
RST Engineering said:
Mike ...

I'm curious. As one of those "old timers" who cut their teeth on
straight-6 chevies without pressure rod bearings ("scoop" system) I'd like
to know how the "old ways" will ruin a modern engine. Last time I looked,
modern engines still worked on the suck-squeeze-bang-blow routine with
large pieces of iron flailing about wildly. Lots of round parts,
practically no square parts, and a few elliptical parts.

I seem to remember a comment also about "modern high-compression engines"
in this thread. My book has the 2.5L as a 9.7:1 motor which isn't enough
of "high compression" to warrant anything but plain old 87 octane regular
gas.

Hey, I'm here to learn, not to argue, but I like some basis for
understanding what I hear. As the saying goes, I keep an open mind, but
not so open that my brains fall out.

Jim
It really isn't the compression I'm worried about, but the changes made to
improve performance, reliability and longevity at the cost of being less
tolerant of abuse, including the addition of foreign substances. I've
considered making a list (in no particular order, you'll notice) for my own
reference, including more than just the engine per se:
1) Fill the radiator from the garden hose
2) If the coolant is low, drive a ways until the temperature guage gets
high, then let it cool and repeat until you get to a water hose
3) A roll of toilet paper is an acceptable replacement for the oil filter
cartridge (one of my mother's favorite tricks!)
4) If the battery dies, jump start from another car and let the alternator
charge the battery.
5) If the battery doesn't seem to be charging, start the engine and lift the
battery cable to see if it will run on the alternator alone
6) A couple quarts of ATF in the crankcase is a good way to ensure the
sludge doesn't build up too much
7) If the engine is overheating, remove the thermostat
8) Any old transmission fluid will do, unless it's a Ford or Mercury (those
use Type F)
9) Transmission fluid never needs to be changed
10) If you are stuck in the mud, "rock" the car out by rhythmically shifting
between drive and reverse
11) If the engine stalls on hot days, wet down the fuel pump to relieve the
vapor lock
12) A little bit of ping is normal climbing hills on hot days - it won't
hurt anything (another of my mother's favorites, but she never had a broken
piston ring that I know of)
13) Oil is oil
14) All antifreeze is the same... in fact, all brake fluids and power
steering fluids are the same except that weird English stuff
15) You don't need antifreeze if the temperature never gets below freezing
16) If the engine just won't start, use a rope to tow the car home. If it's
an automatic, keep the speed down to 35 mph.
17) The only preventive maintenance a car ever needs is an occasional oil
change
18) The owner's manual is unnecessary - all cars are basically the same
19) If the air filter is dirty, bang it on the ground a few times to knock
the dirt off

What have I forgotten?

I realize most of those were poor practice even in their time, but American
engines lasted about 100K miles before the wear was obscene whether we did
those things or whether we followed today's standards.
 
Michael said:
It really isn't the compression I'm worried about, but the changes made to
improve performance, reliability and longevity at the cost of being less
tolerant of abuse, including the addition of foreign substances. I've
considered making a list (in no particular order, you'll notice) for my own
reference, including more than just the engine per se:
1) Fill the radiator from the garden hose
2) If the coolant is low, drive a ways until the temperature guage gets
high, then let it cool and repeat until you get to a water hose
3) A roll of toilet paper is an acceptable replacement for the oil filter
cartridge (one of my mother's favorite tricks!)
4) If the battery dies, jump start from another car and let the alternator
charge the battery.
5) If the battery doesn't seem to be charging, start the engine and lift the
battery cable to see if it will run on the alternator alone
6) A couple quarts of ATF in the crankcase is a good way to ensure the
sludge doesn't build up too much
7) If the engine is overheating, remove the thermostat
8) Any old transmission fluid will do, unless it's a Ford or Mercury (those
use Type F)
9) Transmission fluid never needs to be changed
10) If you are stuck in the mud, "rock" the car out by rhythmically shifting
between drive and reverse
11) If the engine stalls on hot days, wet down the fuel pump to relieve the
vapor lock
12) A little bit of ping is normal climbing hills on hot days - it won't
hurt anything (another of my mother's favorites, but she never had a broken
piston ring that I know of)
13) Oil is oil
14) All antifreeze is the same... in fact, all brake fluids and power
steering fluids are the same except that weird English stuff
15) You don't need antifreeze if the temperature never gets below freezing
16) If the engine just won't start, use a rope to tow the car home. If it's
an automatic, keep the speed down to 35 mph.
17) The only preventive maintenance a car ever needs is an occasional oil
change
18) The owner's manual is unnecessary - all cars are basically the same
19) If the air filter is dirty, bang it on the ground a few times to knock
the dirt off

What have I forgotten?

I realize most of those were poor practice even in their time, but American
engines lasted about 100K miles before the wear was obscene whether we did
those things or whether we followed today's standards.

take out the sparkplugs, file the electrodes flat again, re-gap them,
put 'em back on. No new washers - just really wrench 'em on tight.


Carl
 
Michael said:
What have I forgotten?

Hi,

You never need to change the oil if you just change the filter every
2000 miles.

Batteries will last forever if you just pour in a package of that magic
stuff you buy at the county fair.

Rick
 
Michael Pardee said:
It really isn't the compression I'm worried about, but the changes made to
improve performance, reliability and longevity at the cost of being less
tolerant of abuse, including the addition of foreign substances. I've
considered making a list (in no particular order, you'll notice) for my
own reference, including more than just the engine per se:
1) Fill the radiator from the garden hose
2) If the coolant is low, drive a ways until the temperature guage gets
high, then let it cool and repeat until you get to a water hose
3) A roll of toilet paper is an acceptable replacement for the oil filter
cartridge (one of my mother's favorite tricks!)
4) If the battery dies, jump start from another car and let the alternator
charge the battery.
5) If the battery doesn't seem to be charging, start the engine and lift
the battery cable to see if it will run on the alternator alone
6) A couple quarts of ATF in the crankcase is a good way to ensure the
sludge doesn't build up too much
7) If the engine is overheating, remove the thermostat
8) Any old transmission fluid will do, unless it's a Ford or Mercury
(those use Type F)
9) Transmission fluid never needs to be changed
10) If you are stuck in the mud, "rock" the car out by rhythmically
shifting between drive and reverse
11) If the engine stalls on hot days, wet down the fuel pump to relieve
the vapor lock
12) A little bit of ping is normal climbing hills on hot days - it won't
hurt anything (another of my mother's favorites, but she never had a
broken piston ring that I know of)
13) Oil is oil
14) All antifreeze is the same... in fact, all brake fluids and power
steering fluids are the same except that weird English stuff
15) You don't need antifreeze if the temperature never gets below freezing
16) If the engine just won't start, use a rope to tow the car home. If
it's an automatic, keep the speed down to 35 mph.
17) The only preventive maintenance a car ever needs is an occasional oil
change
18) The owner's manual is unnecessary - all cars are basically the same
19) If the air filter is dirty, bang it on the ground a few times to knock
the dirt off

What have I forgotten?

If I'm not mistaken, this list was actually copied directly from an old
British car owner's manual. :)
 
Sheldon said:
If I'm not mistaken, this list was actually copied directly from an old
British car owner's manual. :)

You are CORRECT!
It's "word for word" right out of a owners manual for a "MG"
 
Sheldon said:
If I'm not mistaken, this list was actually copied directly from an old
British car owner's manual. :)
My secret is out!

Mike (former Lotus owner)
 
In the mid to late 90s when working as a cashier, it seemed that Marvel
Mystery Oil was sold primarily to senior citizens - like 70+ or so. That was
just my unscientific observation.

Stacey.
: In another vehicle application (which I can't talk about for obvious
: reasons) we treat high oil consumption engines with a mix of regular
engine
: oil and Marvel Mystery Oil 50:50 for an oil change. We run the HELL out
of
: the engines with this mix for a hundred hours, and 95% of the engines
loosen
: up the oil rings and get back to normal oil usage.
:
: Does this work for the Soob 2.5L engine?
:
: Jim
:
:
 
In the mid to late 90s when working as a cashier, it seemed that Marvel
Mystery Oil was sold primarily to senior citizens - like 70+ or so. That was
just my unscientific observation.

Probably right up there with STP.

My grandfather put a can in with every oil change.
 
This may surprise the hell out of you, but today most mechanics use, and we
teach in school, that a mix of 50-50 oil/stp is the preferred mixture to
coat pistons and rings when inserting them in the barrel during an overhaul.

Jim
 
RST said:
This may surprise the hell out of you, but today most mechanics use, and we
teach in school, that a mix of 50-50 oil/stp is the preferred mixture to
coat pistons and rings when inserting them in the barrel during an overhaul.

Not sure what your point is. Any thick
lubricant that will prevent metal to metal
contact until the oil pressure comes up
will work. And that only takes a few
seconds. The stickiness of STP could
certainly be useful in this application.

Personally, I've used NAPA assembly lube
when I've overhauled bike engines.
 

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