oil change on 2010 Outback

[Chicobiker]

Doing an oil change yourself should be easy right?

Well, I just came in after more than 2hrs out in the cold damp
garage.

The problem: the oil filter on this thing is surrounded by exhaust
pipes, and was really tight to get off.

2010 PZEV 2.5

I won't do another oil change myself until I find a tool to help me.
I'll call Subaru tomorrow and see if they sell one.


I had an old oil filter wrench in the garage that proved useless for
two reasons: It was too big, and there was no room to maneuver it. I
tried jamming pieces of rubber between the filter and the wrench but
to no avail. I almost punched a hole in the bottom to drain the old
oil out, and maybe hammer it loose. Then I got scared that I would
not be able to drive the car to some shop to help me out. One last
search in my toolbox yielded a pipe clamp that was *just* big enough
to get around the filter. I squeezed that sucker on and used the
handle of my hammer to lever against the head of the pipe-clamp,
finally breaking free the filter.

Even installing the new one by hand, I could not quite get 3/4 turn on
the new one. 0.7 turns will hopefully be good enough!

Don't bother trying this without a tool unless you are Mr Universe,
and if you are Mr Universe, you probably can't fit your hand between
the exhaust pipes anyway!

 

[Frank]

Doing an oil change yourself should be easy right?

Well, I just came in after more than 2hrs out in the cold damp
garage.

The problem: the oil filter on this thing is surrounded by exhaust
pipes, and was really tight to get off.

2010 PZEV 2.5

I won't do another oil change myself until I find a tool to help me.
I'll call Subaru tomorrow and see if they sell one.


I had an old oil filter wrench in the garage that proved useless for
two reasons: It was too big, and there was no room to maneuver it. I
tried jamming pieces of rubber between the filter and the wrench but
to no avail. I almost punched a hole in the bottom to drain the old
oil out, and maybe hammer it loose. Then I got scared that I would
not be able to drive the car to some shop to help me out. One last
search in my toolbox yielded a pipe clamp that was *just* big enough
to get around the filter. I squeezed that sucker on and used the
handle of my hammer to lever against the head of the pipe-clamp,
finally breaking free the filter.

Even installing the new one by hand, I could not quite get 3/4 turn on
the new one. 0.7 turns will hopefully be good enough!

Don't bother trying this without a tool unless you are Mr Universe,
and if you are Mr Universe, you probably can't fit your hand between
the exhaust pipes anyway!

Been through this kind of thing with other cars.
Subaru had done 30k service on my Forester and not only put on a smaller
filter but Mr Universe had put it on. I discovered this next time I
tried to change oil. I called dealer, complained to service manager and
arranged for them to put on my filter for free.

 

[Cameo]

Doing an oil change yourself should be easy right?

Well, I just came in after more than 2hrs out in the cold damp
garage.

The problem: the oil filter on this thing is surrounded by exhaust
pipes, and was really tight to get off.

2010 PZEV 2.5

I won't do another oil change myself until I find a tool to help me.
I'll call Subaru tomorrow and see if they sell one.

And I thought Honda oil changes are impossible to do by
do-it-yourselfers.

 

[Dean Hoffman]

Doing an oil change yourself should be easy right?

Well, I just came in after more than 2hrs out in the cold damp
garage.

The problem: the oil filter on this thing is surrounded by exhaust
pipes, and was really tight to get off.

2010 PZEV 2.5

I won't do another oil change myself until I find a tool to help me.
I'll call Subaru tomorrow and see if they sell one.

Have you ever tried an end cap filter wrench? Examples here:
http://tinyurl.com/2g45lsy
I don't remember if I got mine at an auto parts store or Wallyworld.

 

[Frank]

And I thought Honda oil changes are impossible to do by do-it-yourselfers.

Don't know about Honda but I believe Toyota will keep pestering you with
a change the oil reminder if you do it yourself. Friend went to dealer
to find out how to reset the code on his.

Now, I read, even DYI battery changes are not recommended since you not
only lose your radio settings but car computer must reset and if you did
it before a car inspection, it would be rejected.

 

[StephenH]

Doing an oil change yourself should be easy right?

Well, I just came in after more than 2hrs out in the cold damp
garage.

The problem: the oil filter on this thing is surrounded by exhaust
pipes, and was really tight to get off.

2010 PZEV 2.5

I won't do another oil change myself until I find a tool to help me.
I'll call Subaru tomorrow and see if they sell one.

I had an old oil filter wrench in the garage that proved useless for
two reasons:  It was too big, and there was no room to maneuver it. I
tried jamming pieces of rubber between the filter and the wrench but
to no avail.  I almost punched a hole in the bottom to drain the old
oil out, and maybe hammer it loose.  Then I got scared that I would
not be able to drive the car to some shop to help me out.  One last
search in my toolbox yielded a pipe clamp that was *just* big enough
to get around the filter.  I squeezed that sucker on and used the
handle of my hammer to lever against the head of the pipe-clamp,
finally breaking free the filter.

Even installing the new one by hand, I could not quite get 3/4 turn on
the new one.  0.7 turns will hopefully be good enough!

Don't bother trying this without a tool unless you are Mr Universe,
and if you are Mr Universe, you probably can't fit your hand between
the exhaust pipes anyway!

OK, back to basics.
Was this the first oil change? IF so than you did good and that wont
be a problem from on. The factory filters are TIGHT. So tight that I
use
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Car-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0002SR4Q8 for
first time oil changes.
After that i use
http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=9&ved=0CH8Q8wIwCA#

Having just the pliers will now solve all your problems.

Understand; I do many more oil changes a day than you....

 

[Big Jim]

If my battery dies and I can get to the clamps and such I change it
myself. Why overpay for a crappy OEM battery that is designed to last
only for 3 years or so. I've changed many batteries and other than
the radio presents and clock there were no problems. For those afraid
of everything hook a trickle charger up before disconnecting the
battery and you wont lose anything. Computer should be fine too.
Unless you changed the battery in the insp.center lot any codes would
be triggered as you drove to inspection!

 

[Chicobiker]

OK, back to basics.
Was this the first oil change? IF so than you did good and that wont
be a problem from on. The factory filters are TIGHT. So tight that I
usehttp://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Car-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0002SR4Q8for
first time oil changes.
After that i usehttp://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=oil+filter+plyers&um=1&ie=UT...

Having just the pliers will now solve all your problems.

Understand; I do many more oil changes a day than you....  

This was the second oil change. Dealer did the first. I'm going to
pick up a filter wrench like the one you posted. I just can't see
where there is space for pliers!

I also noticed a difference between the Subaru filter and the Quaker
State I bought. Subaru filter felt much more hefty and there was
something extra inside it. They're not any more expensive so I'm
gonna pick up a few from the dealer for next time.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

This was the second oil change.  Dealer did the first.  I'm going to
pick up a filter wrench like the one you posted.  I just can't see
where there is space for pliers!

I also noticed a difference between the Subaru filter and the Quaker
State I bought.  Subaru filter felt much more hefty and there was
something extra inside it.  They're not any more expensive so I'm
gonna pick up a few from the dealer for next time.

The 'cap' style tools have no clearance issues. However, there are
several sizes and, sometimes, switching filter manufacturers means
buying a new cap.

http://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-325...R4AY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1289879429&sr=8-5

http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-A...92/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1289879429&sr=8-15

THIS looks good!
http://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Best-U...0CTQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1289879429&sr=8-8

 

[weelliott]

And I thought Honda oil changes are impossible to do by
do-it-yourselfers.

Ironically this is somethign that I have often bragged about
concerning my 95 or 98 legacies. Not only is it easy to access, but I
don't even have to jack the car up since kneelign in front of the car
and reachign under the front bumper gains me access to the oil filter.
Then the drain plug is just laying in front of the car and reaching
under it with a ratchet. Easy as can be. It was a determining factor
when my wife and I were deciding which car to give away to her cousin
when we bought a newer car. Because of the ease of regular maintenance
versus the other car's(a 96 Saturn SL2) we kept it. Fortunately we
chose wisely. That car threw a rod about 15k miles later while the
subaru went another 30-35k before I got 800 bucks for it.

I often wonder how much GM tainted subaru. Design for Long term
reliability and Design for maintenance both seem to have deteriorated
in the last 15 years.

 

[Frank]

If my battery dies and I can get to the clamps and such I change it
myself. Why overpay for a crappy OEM battery that is designed to last
only for 3 years or so. I've changed many batteries and other than
the radio presents and clock there were no problems. For those afraid
of everything hook a trickle charger up before disconnecting the
battery and you wont lose anything. Computer should be fine too.
Unless you changed the battery in the insp.center lot any codes would
be triggered as you drove to inspection!

Yes, someone told me that if inspection doesn't show at least 75 miles
on computer, you automatically fail here in DE.

Also my 2003 Forester battery is still going strong. Had one battery
disconnect a couple of years ago when body shop replaced a broken tail
light assembly. Other than radio and clock reset, no problem.

 

[Cameo]

I often wonder how much GM tainted subaru. Design for Long term
reliability and Design for maintenance both seem to have deteriorated
in the last 15 years.

What do you mean by the GM - Subaru connection? What do they have to do
with each other?

 

[StephenH]

This was the second oil change.  Dealer did the first.  I'm going to
pick up a filter wrench like the one you posted.  I just can't see
where there is space for pliers!

I also noticed a difference between the Subaru filter and the Quaker
State I bought.  Subaru filter felt much more hefty and there was
something extra inside it.  They're not any more expensive so I'm
gonna pick up a few from the dealer for next time.

I have a BIG collection of filter wrenches, end cap and pliers. Now
that i do Subaru's, the pliers is all I ever use; and I can get them
up there even on turbos; but the end cap type like I showed is great.
two sizes available; get the small one. it slips perfectly over a oem
filter.
Hey look how hard this was:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=oil+filter+wrench&i_cntr=1289946009754

DO not get the 3 jawed one, it is a good tool, but not optimal for a
Subaru.
An observation I have made, any oil filter I have seen leaking has
never been OEM. only aftermarkets; (and a small amount at that)

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

What do you mean by the GM - Subaru connection? What do they have to do
with each other?

Nothing anymore. At one time, GM owned a fraction of Subaru - then
they sold it to Toyota. There were rumors that, when GM was part
owner, some soob cars got GM alternators.

And I think some Foresters got a bowtie badge in India???

 

[Cameo]

Nothing anymore. At one time, GM owned a fraction of Subaru - then
they sold it to Toyota. There were rumors that, when GM was part
owner, some soob cars got GM alternators.

And I think some Foresters got a bowtie badge in India???

Hm, I was not aware of that history. So now Subaru is partly owned by
Toyota?

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

Hm, I was not aware of that history. So now Subaru is partly owned by
Toyota?

The Saab 92X was also part of the GM/Subaru alliance. Now. I think Toy
has gone from 8% to 16% ownership and is co-designing a coupe I guess.
(these projects come and go, I guess it's still on?)

 

[Big Jim]

Failing for mileage before inspection sounds like a load of BS to me.
NJ was an anal inspection state and if the CE light was off and no
codes were present you passed. I doubt DE would be stricter than NJ.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

Failing for mileage before inspection sounds like a load of BS to me.
NJ was an anal inspection state  and if the CE light was off and no
codes were present you passed.  I doubt DE would be stricter than NJ.

It isn't really mileage. It's the 'monitor incomplete' issue. If you
clear the CEL/ECU immediately before the emissions test, you will fail.
(at least here in Texas you will.)
It takes a certain number and requires certain conditions of 'drive
cycles'. It might vary wife manufacturer. basically, if you ever clear
your CEL/ECU (with a scan tool or with a dead battery) wait a few days
before going for an inspection.

I found this description on a Ford site;

******OBDII Monitor
Exercised
Drive Cycle Procedure

Purpose of
Drive Cycle Procedure
Drive Cycle
Preparation 1. Install scan tool. Turn key on with the engine off.
Cycle key off, then on. Select appropriate Vehicle & Engine qualifier.
Clear all DTC's/ Perform a PCM Reset. Bypasses engine soak timer.
Resets OBDII Monitor status.
2. Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if
available) and TP MODE.
Start vehicle WITHOUT returning to Key Off.
3. Idle vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) until ECT is
at least 76.7°C (170° F).
Prep for Monitor Entry 4. Is IAT within 4.4 to 37.8°C (40 to 100° F)?
If Not, complete the following steps but, note that step 14 will be
required to "bypass " the Evap monitor and clear the P1000. Engine
warm-up and provide IAT input to the PCM.
HEGO 5. Cruise at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) for up to 4 minutes. Executes the
HEGO monitor.
EVAP 6. Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid
sharp turns and hills) Note, to initiate the monitor: TP MODE should
=PT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85% Executes
the EVAP Monitor (If IAT is within 4.4 to 37.8° (40 to 100°F))
Catalyst 7. Drive in stop and go traffic conditions. Include five
different constant cruise speeds, ranging from 40 to 72 Km/h (25 to 45
MPH) over a 10 minute period. Executes the Catalyst Monitor.
EGR 8. From a stop, accelerate to 72 Km/h (45 MPH) at 1/2 to 3/4
throttle. Repeat 3 times. Executes the EGR Monitor.
SEC AIR/CCM (Engine) 9. Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with
transmission in drive (neutral for M/T) for 2 minutes. Executes the
ISC portion of the CCM.
CCM (Trans) 10. For M/T, accelerate from 0 to 80 Km/h (o to 50 MPH),
continue to step 11. For A/T, from a stop and in overdrive, moderately
accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds.
Stop vehicle and repeat without overdrive to 64 Km/h (40 MPH) cruising
for at least 30 seconds. While at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) , activate
overdrive and accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least
15 seconds. Stop for at least 20 seconds and repeat step 10 five
times. Executes the transmission portion of the CCM.
Misfire & Fuel Monitors 11. From a stop, accelerate to 104 Km/h (65
MPH). Decelerate at closed throttle until 64 Km/h (40 MPH) (no
brakes). Repeat this 3 times. Allows learning for the misfire monitor.
Readiness Check 12. Access the ON-Board System Readiness (OBDII
monitor status) function on the scan tool. Determine whether all non-
continuous monitors have completed. If not, go to step 13. Determines
if any monitor has not completed.
Pending Code Check and Evap Monitor "Bypass" Check 13. With the scan
tool, check for pending codes. Conduct normal repair procedures for
any pending code concern. Otherwise, rerun any incomplete monitor.
Note: if the EVAP monitor is not complete AND IAT was out of the 4.4
to 37.8° C (40 to 100° F) temperature range in step #4, or the
altitude is over 2438 m. (8000 ft.), the Evap "bypass" procedure must
be followed.
Proceed to step 14. Determines if a pending code is preventing the
clearing of P1000.
Evap Monitor "Bypass" 14. Park vehicle for a minimum of 8 hours.
Repeat steps 2 through 12. DO NOT REPEAT STEP 1. Allow the "bypass"
counter to increment to two. ******

 

[Robert L. Wilson]

Have you tried one of the "wrenches" that are a big polycarbonate socket
that fits over the end of the filter, with a center square hole for a 3/8"
drive ratchet? That way, perhaps with a socket extension, you don't need to
get in beside the filter at all, just straight out in the direction the
filter points away from the engine. Frequently these are what they use at a
professional shop, rather than the wrenches that clamp down around the
outside. I have several sizes, probably got them at a place like Walmart
although they have much cut down on tools they carry.
Bob Wilson