Mystery... Help needed please!

[SubieNewbie1969]

Help / advice please for this new (used car) Subaru Legacy owner is worried.

I just bought a 2016 Legacy with 135,000 miles on it at time of purchase. I am a single parent who lives in a very remote area and needed reliable AWD transportation for me and my son so I bought this used Subaru from a local small family owned used car lot. I have put about 5,000 miles on it since buying it and love it so far! The warranty is OVER on this car as in the state where I live you only get 30 days or 1,000 miles whichever comes first by law. ALL CAR DEALERS HERE HAVE THIS EXACT SAME WARRANTY NO MATTER WHO YOU BUY IT FROM.

My son and I went for a drive to the store today. Car was driven today for 45 minutes straight on freeway (very mountainous region) and it started to have a super light vibration/shake like a tire was out of balance , or the road was bad/uneven, but then it went away (brakes were NOT applied I was driving at highway speeds). No WOBBLING or RUBBING SOUNDS, just a very slight vibration (brakes were NOT applied I was just driving straight ahead on freeway)
We went to a few stores all within ½ mile of each other and it did not shake any like it was.

Then we drove home and on the way home on the freeway it came back and got a little worse away (brakes were NOT applied I was driving at highway speeds), and was a little more intense but still not enough to cause concern for me. Then about 3 miles from home on the freeway, it started shuttering/shaking harder (brakes were NOT applied I was driving at highway speeds).

I was glad to make it home and was gonna pop the hood and have a look around. I said to myself “Man I hope it isn’t a transmission problem!” Dropped son off at the house and drove the car 2 miles and came back home again hoping the problem would resolve itself.

Upon returning home and parking car in garage I smelled a burning smell and said “oh _____”. It is coming from the front drivers wheel, a burning smell like something is hot, not a burning metallic smell like metal on metal (like a wheel bearing rubbing on metal or brake shoes on bare metal).

PRIOR to this there was no brake pad noises, brake pads were in fine shape according to the dealer, and I had zero problems breaking.
The wheel does NOT wobble, car just SHOOK kind like someone had slammed on the breaks super hard without antilock breaks in a non Subaru.
I walked around the car and located the smell as stated above to the drivers side front tire/rim. Tire was NOT DAMAGED and showed no abnormal wear (I have Yokohamas on it). I then reached down and touched the rim with the back of my hand and it was very warm, not HOT like burn your flesh off, but very WARM. I felt the other 3 rims on the car and they were cool to the touch. Car drove fine before this trip and I had zero issues. Again brakes worked FINE before this, and no shakes or vibration.

I called Subaru Dealer and I cannot get in for a whole week, and I scheduled a appointment. The scheduler apologized for the long wait time to get me in and placed me on hold and I waited patiently. I was hoping they were trying to find a opening for me!
Well they come back on the phone and said without looking at the car, it sounds like according to a “mechanic” (at the dealer, it really could have been anyone!) like from what I have described above that the brake caliper on wheel mentioned above is either sticking some or is totally stuck. I just had the car checked thoroughly about 5 weeks ago at this same dealer and the brake pads were checked and I was told they were fine. I can drive the car but don’t want to as it’s a safety issue for me at this point.
I AM NOT A MECHANIC AND HAVE ZERO MECHANICAL SKILLS, and I didn’t stay at a Motel 6 last night (people my age will remember the commercial!)

I live in a VERY REMOTE location in the Appalachian Mountains and have ZERO mechanic ability or experience and I am a old man.

Does this should like what the person told me over the phone at the dealer, that the caliper is stuck or sticking ? I did notice that when I pressed on the brakes before getting home (less than 4 miles way) the brakes felt funny and car shuttered when applying the brakes (it felt like it was coming from the drivers side front tire).
The brake fluid reservoir is totally full, and there is NO leaking fluids anywhere, and no warning lights are on, and there are ZERO odors from the other rims/tires on the car. I have never ran into this before but I am also a new Subaru owner.

Any advice , wisdom, or guidance you can give me would be a GREAT help.
Thanks in advance!

 

[bmart]

Nice job figuring out which corner the problem is. That's not nothing. Can you clarify this for us? I don't follow. Are you saying that the car slowed dramatically without any brake application?

"The wheel does NOT wobble, car just SHOOK kind like someone had slammed on the breaks super hard without antilock breaks in a non Subaru."

 

[SubieNewbie1969]

The car did not SLOW down it had a shuttering sensation like you are on old paved highway. The wheel is not LOCKED UP the car will drive, but after about 10-15 minutes if you smell this area you can smell the burning smell kinda like hot cermaics or paper on fire. Tomorrow I am going to get out my floor jack and jack the car up on that side and see if the wheel turns freely or is binding.

Thanks for taking the time to help me, I appreciate it!



Google AI says...

A stuck caliper on a 2016 Subaru Legacy can lead to brake problems and uneven braking. The most common causes are corrosion or rust affecting the caliper's slide pins, pistons, or bolts. Addressing this requires identifying the issue, cleaning and lubricating the affected components, and potentially replacing damaged parts.
Identifying the Issue:
Sticking Slide Pins:
The caliper slides on pins to allow the brake pads to move. If these pins are seized, they can prevent the caliper from moving freely, leading to sticking brakes.
Piston Seizing:
The caliper's piston pushes the brake pads. If it's seized, the pads won't properly release, causing dragging brakes.
Corrosion or Rust:
Moisture and environmental factors can cause corrosion and rust on the caliper components, leading to sticking.
Troubleshooting and Repair:
1. Inspection:
Carefully inspect the caliper and slide pins for any signs of corrosion or rust.
2. Cleaning:
Clean the slide pins and caliper with a wire brush and brake cleaner to remove any debris.
3. Lubrication:
Apply a suitable brake caliper lubricant, such as Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Lube, to the slide pins and caliper.
4. Piston Re-Installation:
If the piston is seized, you might need to carefully work it back into the cylinder. Use brake caliper reinstallation tools if necessary.
5. Pin Replacement:
If the pins are severely corroded or damaged, replace them with new ones.
6. Caliber Reinstallation:
Once cleaned and lubricated, reinstall the caliper and ensure it moves freely.
Safety Considerations:
Wear safety glasses and gloves when working on brakes.
Make sure the vehicle is properly supported before working under it.
If you are not comfortable with these repairs, consult a qualified mechanic.

 

[bmart]

Let us know what you find. The braking system at the wheel is pretty simple. If you do any disassembly/reassembly, ensure that you use the proper torque specs.

 

[SubieNewbie1969]

I have a appointment at a local family owned garage Wednesday. The owner said its probably a stuck or frozen brake caliper which he said is VERY COMMON where we live because of the chemicals they put on the rural roads here which also destroys cars.. He said a stuck/sticking brake caliper would make the rim hot, and a faulty wheel bearing would NOT make it hot but WOULD make it noisy. He was confident its the caliper.

He ordered a OEM Subrau caliper that's remanufactured with a warranty... Not a OEM SPEC but and actual OEM CALIPER that has been professionally remanufactured. I believe he said it was about $110 for the rebuilt OEM caliper with a warranty.

Thanks everyone

 

[bmart]

He's likely right. Let us know!

 

[SubieNewbie1969]

How To Diagnose and Fix a Seized Brake Caliper - Haynes Manuals

Keep your vehicle in top shape with tips and tutorials on the Haynes blog. Read our post 'How To Diagnose and Fix a Seized Brake Caliper' today.

us.haynes.com

Good info here!

 

[pittpa]

Could it be a broken tire belt?

 

[GuyS1]

I’m guessing the broken tire belt wouldn’t cause the front wheel to get hot. It does sound like a caliper piston seized then releasing etc. Dirty contaminated fluid would precipitate that. Might be an idea to have the garage flush the brake system with new fluid while replacing the caliper. Replacing with an OEM caliper is a good plan. They are typically high end and better than aftermarket especially chinese stuff.

 

[SubieNewbie1969]

I was told brake calipers/shoes sticking here where I NOW live is a very common problem. Its the chemicals they use on the rural roads, it destroys all mentals on cars and causes mass amounts of rust... Mufflers & exhaust systems, undercarriages, rims, and uncovered / chipped paint areas on car bodies rust very fast.. I didn't know it was this bad as I am NOT from this area having lived where it never snows.

 

[Mike the mechanic]

The car did not SLOW down it had a shuttering sensation like you are on old paved highway. The wheel is not LOCKED UP the car will drive, but after about 10-15 minutes if you smell this area you can smell the burning smell kinda like hot cermaics or paper on fire. Tomorrow I am going to get out my floor jack and jack the car up on that side and see if the wheel turns freely or is binding.

Thanks for taking the time to help me, I appreciate it!



Google AI says...

A stuck caliper on a 2016 Subaru Legacy can lead to brake problems and uneven braking. The most common causes are corrosion or rust affecting the caliper's slide pins, pistons, or bolts. Addressing this requires identifying the issue, cleaning and lubricating the affected components, and potentially replacing damaged parts.
Identifying the Issue:
Sticking Slide Pins:
The caliper slides on pins to allow the brake pads to move. If these pins are seized, they can prevent the caliper from moving freely, leading to sticking brakes.
Piston Seizing:
The caliper's piston pushes the brake pads. If it's seized, the pads won't properly release, causing dragging brakes.
Corrosion or Rust:
Moisture and environmental factors can cause corrosion and rust on the caliper components, leading to sticking.
Troubleshooting and Repair:
1. Inspection:
Carefully inspect the caliper and slide pins for any signs of corrosion or rust.
2. Cleaning:
Clean the slide pins and caliper with a wire brush and brake cleaner to remove any debris.
3. Lubrication:
Apply a suitable brake caliper lubricant, such as Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Lube, to the slide pins and caliper.
4. Piston Re-Installation:
If the piston is seized, you might need to carefully work it back into the cylinder. Use brake caliper reinstallation tools if necessary.
5. Pin Replacement:
If the pins are severely corroded or damaged, replace them with new ones.
6. Caliber Reinstallation:
Once cleaned and lubricated, reinstall the caliper and ensure it moves freely.
Safety Considerations:
Wear safety glasses and gloves when working on brakes.
Make sure the vehicle is properly supported before working under it.
If you are not comfortable with these repairs, consult a qualified mechanic.

Brake rubber hose to the caliper may be the problem you can compress the caliper but while driving the brake fluid in the hose may hold pressure if hose is clogged a lot less to change than caliper and you'll still get the same problem

 

[Mike the mechanic]

Brake rubber hose to the caliper may be the problem you can compress the caliper but while driving the brake fluid in the hose may hold pressure if hose is clogged a lot less to change than caliper and you'll still get the same problem if you change the caliper

 

[SubieNewbie1969]

Brake rubber hose to the caliper may be the problem you can compress the caliper but while driving the brake fluid in the hose may hold pressure if hose is clogged a lot less to change than caliper and you'll still get the same problem

Your last part confused me... Are you saying flush the brakes or are you saying the hose might be the problem ? I backed this car out of the garage to get the trash out today and pulled the car back in and the left front drivers tire rim was ice cold. Car is going to a neighborhood, family owned garage to be looked at, NOT the dealer.. No way am I spending $350 for dealer diagnosis on a 2016 Subaru with 139,000 on it and then pay $399 for a caliper plus shoes if needed and then labor on top of that. I bought this Subaru for a little over 5k and no way would I put $1k into any repair... I would trade or sell it first.
I'm a former Toyota owner and had ZERO PROBLEMS with that car and it has 437,000 miles in it before I got TBONED a month ago unfortunately.


I will mention to where it's going to check the hoses / and sensor and brake line going to caliper though along with the brake fluid condition. They will of course NOT have subaru OEM fluids... They have a excellent reputation in the community, do good work, and are affordable!

Thanks for the clarification. I appreciate your time.

 

[GuyS1]

I have a appointment at a local family owned garage Wednesday. The owner said its probably a stuck or frozen brake caliper which he said is VERY COMMON where we live because of the chemicals they put on the rural roads here which also destroys cars.. He said a stuck/sticking brake caliper would make the rim hot, and a faulty wheel bearing would NOT make it hot but WOULD make it noisy. He was confident its the caliper.

He ordered a OEM Subrau caliper that's remanufactured with a warranty... Not a OEM SPEC but and actual OEM CALIPER that has been professionally remanufactured. I believe he said it was about $110 for the rebuilt OEM caliper with a warranty.

Thanks everyone

This makes sense and the garage owner sounds like he know his stuff. Stick with a Subaru caliper. I just rebuilt my caliper on a different vehicle and replaced the seal for the piston. If that seal/piston does not freely return after receiving pressure from the master cylinder (like it was designed to do), it will drag the pads on the rotor. My caliper was filled with old gunky brake fluid so I tore it all apart and cleaned it and put a new seal in the bore. The fact that there is a warranty is good too. If it doesn’t work right away they’ll replace it. However don’t expect the warranty will cover the caliper for too long…….it not like the original car warranty. Probably a year or less.

 

[bmart]

If the car has had regular brake fluid flushes, your likely suspects are the brake pad clips/slides, slide pins, and caliper piston/seals. Almost no one rebuilds calipers anymore, but you can. Any decent aftermarket caliper will likely be fine. Bleeding after each caliper is quite easy. 1-4 pumps/caliper.

If your car has not had the system flushed on the recommended cycle, all bets are all. It could be the return port, goo in a line or caliper or master or or or.

 

[SubieNewbie1969]

Thank you guys! Lots of good info here and things to consider. I bought the car used and have no idea what was and was not done to it as the car came from another state (New York!) And driven there then sold at auction. I bought car from dealer who bought it here as a totalled vehicle and fixed the front end damage. And my local Subaru dealer had nothing in their computer about my car vin wise. I know when I had my first oil change at the Subaru dealer 6 weeks ago they did do the satellite radio update (which I don't even use!) and that's all I know about the maintenance of this car other than this oil change . Thanks again

 

[GuyS1]

The reason calipers aren’t rebuilt by garages anymore is not because it is difficult to do….it isn’t. BUT, if there is a “small amount” of corrosion in the bore or piston (especially at the top where past worn brake pads could of caused the top of the piston to be exposed to elements), then a new seal may work, ….just not as long as a smooth, uncorroded bore/piston. For garages, that means the increased risk of future call backs for a brake repair that didn’t last very long. That leads to a bad reputation or worse loss of revenue to cover off the remedial labor costs. Remanufactured calipers reject any caliper that shows any corrosion. But, ……there is an unknown issue of the quality of the caliper and the parts (and cheap labor) used in the remanufacture process.

 

[bmart]

The 1999 JDM I bought recently had the rear brake calipers bound a little, so the rotors were 550F+ without braking at all... I just swapped in some used ones and just like that, normal temps and braking. Bleeding took ~1 minute/side as the fluid stays in most of the system.

 

[SubieNewbie1969]

I do know the shop ordered a OEM REBUILT CALIPER and its $120.

 

[GuyS1]

If that means they used OEM seals, slide boots, etc. (which they should have done), then I’d say that’s the way to go. I used OEM parts on my rebuild and everything went perfect. BUT….my piston and bore were perfectly smooth. So I ordered OEM rebuild parts and seals. The fact they were OEM meant they were definitely for my caliper but also of a standard acceptable or equal to the manufacturers specifications.