Lug nuts breaking off

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I have 2019 Forester and every time I have to take a wheel off (Rotate tires) one or more of lug nut is will be so tight it is necessary to necessary to twist the lug off. These nuts were not over tightened when installed and penetrating oil does not help. It is almost like the metals weld themselves together. By now I have replaced at least half of the originals.
Question: Does anybody else have this problem and is it still a problem on the 2025. I am looking to buy a 2026 but if this is still a problem that will end that deal for me. Thanks
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Have any of the new lug nuts you replaced broke yet, or have they seized up?
 
'25 Forester. FWIW, last month I messaged the tech at "our" dealership about lubricating the studs as I change over to my winter tires and wheels, and he did say that they use some light oil on them. I know that this is often viewed as a big, hand-slap no-no by many, but there is not a vehicle in my past that I have not lubed the studs (or bolts - '98 Volvo) on. I usually use a mix of a bit of nickel never-seize and white grease. I do have a very high-quality torque wrench, and try to hit about 7/8 or so of the specified torque for that particular vehicle.
 
I don't know what they are made of but if its stainless steel it will gaul and seize up. I learned the hard way and used nickel based antiseize on stainless nuts and bolts after that with no more problems.
 
Five lugs had to be twisted off and replaced for me on a 2014 Forester/XT. Three singles and one double. Discount Tire in Marietta, GA reported that numerous lug nut problems had been encountered on Subarus. I've got a 2024 Legacy now but no tire rotation yet.
 
In 60 years of driving, I have never had a lug nut twist or break off. I have seen it though but in each case, the lug nuts were installed with an impact wrench and were too tight and in some cases, cross threaded as well.

Never use any oil or anti-seize on lug nut threads. This allows the nut to be over tightened even though it is inside the torque spec for the lug. The dry thread resistance is part of the specified torque, reduce the thread drag and more clamping/stretch force is applied to the lug.

I have used anti-seize on the seat where the nut contacts the wheel, on the wheel side only.
 
Finer threads on Subaru lug nuts won't take the high speed of most impact wrenches. Broke some on my '15 Forester and had a heart to heart with the mechanic, problem never happened again. A small amount of never seize won't hurt, just go slow and don't over torque.
 
I'm onboard with no lube on the threads or nuts.
The Beemers use bolts (durn Krauts!), and I run a bore brush into the holes on the rotor. A quick toothbrushing of the studs/nuts is a good idea on the Sube.
BTW, what is the torque value for the wheel bolts on Subes?
Dan
 

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