Is The 60,000 Mile Service Necessary?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by davesixtythree, Dec 12, 2006.

  1. Hi All, I Just got a used 04 forester XT with 55,000 miles. Question,
    is The 60,000 mile service
    really necessary.At $600.00 this would raise the cents per mile that
    I'm trying to keep as low as possible! I do however plan 105,000 mile
    service with the timing belt replacement. What do you think? If money
    were no object I'd follow the book (The Tribeca or Lexus book) but it
    is!
    I want to get at least 200,000 mile on this car. Any advice on Subaru
    would be most
    welcome. Thanks
     
    davesixtythree, Dec 12, 2006
    #1
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  2. davesixtythree

    Edward Hayes Guest

    Look at your manual for the recommended service and do as much as
    you're able. You will find much is looking for leaks etc. I think the
    coolant change, brake fluid change and of course engine oil are
    necessary if you want to achieve 200,000 miles. The transmission &
    differential changes depend on whether you drive under sever
    conditions which are outlined in your service book. ed
     
    Edward Hayes, Dec 12, 2006
    #2
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  3. Better service => more miles.
     
    John Rethorst, Dec 12, 2006
    #3
  4. davesixtythree

    Kurt C. Hack Guest

    Consider doing some of the work yourself. The air and fuel filter
    changes are easy as can be and I found the spark plugs to be rather
    easy. Your local shop should be able to perform the brake fluid changes
    rather inexpensively.

    -Kurt
     
    Kurt C. Hack, Dec 12, 2006
    #4
  5. davesixtythree

    Ragnar Guest


    Then you should perform preventive maintenance.
     
    Ragnar, Dec 12, 2006
    #5
  6. davesixtythree

    Todd H. Guest

    At 60k mine was due for coolant resplacement, fuel filter replacement,
    spark plug repalcement, and brake fluid replacement.

    If you want the car to last to that age without having a failing
    radiator or brake system, it'd behoove you to perform this
    maintenance. $600 will seem cheap if you have to replace a radiator,
    head gasket, master cylinder, or have an ABS brake issues due to lack
    of these maintenance items.
     
    Todd H., Dec 12, 2006
    #6
  7. davesixtythree

    Ray Guest

    if you want to get 200,000 miles of any car, maintain it in the best
    possible way.
    Why people will spend $30,000 on a car and then complain about $25 oil
    changes is beyond me.
     
    Ray, Dec 12, 2006
    #7
  8. davesixtythree

    bigjim Guest

    Most who get high mileage cars do oil changes and minor maintenance
    themselves. A $25 oil change for me includes Mobil 1 as I do it
    myself. Get a K&N filter and it just gets cleaned but lasts forever.
    Changing fluids esp tranny cant hurt since Jap auto trannys are
    generally weak.
     
    bigjim, Dec 12, 2006
    #8

  9. If you must - stretch the service out over 3-4 pay periods. Inspect all
    major fluids NOW and top off as required. Do the oil, then the brakes,
    then the tranny if auto - try to spring for a full flush, if not, do the
    drain/fill, then the coolant. If the car is running well and no CEL is
    on, do the plugs last. But do it in as timely a fashion as possible.
    Then, begin putting aside money for the next biggie - the timing belt!

    Carl
     
    Carl 1 Lucky Texan, Dec 12, 2006
    #9
  10. Thanks much for the advice, I've done it both ways the Rav4 was just
    traded in with 190,000. I spent $300.00 for a timing belt and alt.
    belt. I never changed trans, antifreeze, gear oil, plugs, wires, brakes
    or fuel filter. I did change oil and air filters myself. I had a Taurus
    that I bought new I did the compleat book at the dealer ($$$$) and it
    started to fall apart at 90,000, I know Fix Or Repair Daily. I'm just
    looking for the gen. low down on Subaru. I just hate to pay for things
    I don't have to.
     
    davesixtythree, Dec 13, 2006
    #10
  11. davesixtythree

    B A R R Y Guest

    As well as letting particles by that paper filters trap. <G>
     
    B A R R Y, Dec 13, 2006
    #11
  12. davesixtythree

    Oscar_Lives Guest

    And getting oil all over the MAF sensor too...
     
    Oscar_Lives, Dec 13, 2006
    #12
  13. davesixtythree

    CompUser Guest

    @n67g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>,
    says...
    The general low down is "do the factory service
    schedule". Some of that you can do yourself and
    save hugely over dealership gouging.

    The other aspect is dealerships will add more
    "dealer recommended" services to the factory
    schedule list. These dealer add ons are mostly
    just additional profit items, and not useful.
    Make a list of the factory schedule and tell the
    service person that is all you want done.

    Expect to have to hold them to it, even after all
    that. At my last Subaru service, they added a
    $3.50 charge for topping off the washer fluid,
    which I'd done the night before.
     
    CompUser, Dec 13, 2006
    #13
  14. Hi,

    In another thread we were talking about a fellow who got a million miles
    on his Saab. You'll see this quote in several of the reports on this car
    if you Google it: "Gilbert attributes his vehicle's longevity, other
    than being a Saab, to 'maintenance and rigorous fluid
    replacement.'" In addition, at least one site reports he used "premium,
    synthetic oil" though no brand was listed. (There's a fellow in the
    Guinness book w/ 1.2 mil on a Honda who used Castrol Syntec--but I'd
    suggest the "rigorous fluid replacement" part of the regimen was more
    important than actual brand before someone jumps on that broken down
    bandwagon.) Another site reports strict adherence to the book's
    maintenance schedule.

    Ok, what points am I trying to make? For longevity, CLEAN fluids are a
    must. 200k miles is no longer "that far" for many cars today, assuming
    decent maintenance.

    Over and above that, look carefully at what the book says, NOT what the
    dealer says. As mentioned, dealers will upsell when possible to make an
    extra buck. Then, if time and/or money are tight (aren't they always?),
    and you CAN'T do everything at once, prioritize the maintenance schedule
    according to "this could kill me, this could kill the engine, this won't
    hurt if I wait until next paycheck" kinds of things.

    Tires, brakes and the braking system would be "this could kill me"
    items. Timing belts, oil and filters would be "this could kill the
    engine" items. Changing the spark plugs and gearbox oil could "wait
    until next paycheck." You see where I'm going?

    Figure out what maintenance items you can do yourself to save a buck or
    two, or get "better" products for the same money. Example: my local
    Jiffy Lube advertises a Pennzoil oil change for $39.95. You'll get up to
    five qts of regular dino oil and a Pennzoil house-branded version of
    Fram's bottom line filter. For the same $40, you can put five qts of
    Mobil 1 and an OEM or "premium" aftermarket filter in there like Mobil 1
    or Wix. Or you can go dino and "standard" filter for around $20. The
    choice is yours! Then you can leave only the items you CAN'T do to the
    dealer...

    "Extra" maintenance, such as 3000 mile oil changes when the book says
    5000 miles would fall under the definition of "rigorous" in my book, but
    will NOT hurt the car! They MIGHT help, and will take a few extra
    pennies from your pocket, but how many oil changes can you do for just
    ONE extra car payment that you might be able to avoid by extending the
    useful miles from your car? To err on the side of caution will probably
    save you money in the long run.

    Finally, when it comes to items like filters... you won't go wrong using
    OEM filters throughout. They usually won't cost any more than "premium"
    aftermarket items, and you know for sure they meet factory performance
    specs (as opposed to simply meeting warranty requirements.) Items that
    advertise "enhanced performance" are suspect, be they blue pills or
    "million mile air filters." Use them at your own risk. "Cheap"
    aftermarket filters may or may not serve well, depending on the overall
    maintenance schedule. For example, a $2.50 house branded oil filter w/
    "no name" $1.50/qt dino oil that meets the appropriate API or other
    specs, changed every 2500 miles, will probably serve as well as (if not
    better than) stretching a $10 filter w/ $6/qt synthetic oil out to 10k
    mile change intervals. As with many things, only controlled testing
    (which most of us aren't equipped to do) will tell, so let's NOT start
    THAT war again, it's just a suggestion.

    Good luck!

    Rick
     
    Rick Courtright, Dec 13, 2006
    #14
  15. davesixtythree

    bigjim Guest

    Get over it- If K&N filters were so bad they wouldnt be as popular.
    I'll spend $50 once for the life of the car rather than $20 every year.
    Had a K&N in my Trooper and it lasted 145k miles until it was hit.
    Engine seemed fine to me. Guess K&N filters arent so bad. I doubt my
    Subaru will die early due to the K&N. I'll be rid of the car long
    before the engine dies from use of a K&N filter. Then when Jeep sells
    the wrangler unlimited in yellow I'll buy one and guess what-- I'm
    putting a K&N in that too!!!!!
     
    bigjim, Dec 13, 2006
    #15
  16. davesixtythree

    bigjim Guest

    I disagree with your criticism of K&N filters. I too doubt they add 15
    hp but the longevity and cleanability factor make them worthwhile.
    After a day of dusty off road driving filter can be cleaned oiled and
    ready to go again with full airflow. I wouldnt trust 10k miles on any
    oil but some brands of cars recommend it and I guess will back it with
    warranty if engine fails. I'm hooked on the Walmart full syntetic.
    Price is great and changed at 5k will protect my engine for a long
    time.
     
    bigjim, Dec 13, 2006
    #16
  17. I doubt oiled filters are quite as bad as the naysayers make out -
    though there are tests that show they alloy more silicon (sand) in oil
    analyses (but I wonder what the particle size is) and any HP gain is
    minimal. There are also poor paper filters out there - so it depends on
    what comparisons you wanna make.

    I use OEM paper filters.

    Carl
     
    Carl 1 Lucky Texan, Dec 13, 2006
    #17
  18. davesixtythree

    B A R R Y Guest

    Such a troll... <G>
     
    B A R R Y, Dec 14, 2006
    #18
  19. davesixtythree

    Kurt Krueger Guest

    Aside from a few things that need to be replaced (and most are well within
    the abilities of anyone with any mechanical aptitude) most other service
    items are of the 'check and adjust if needed' type. Timing rarely changes
    on new cars. Valve adjustment can be expensive if the engine uses shims.
    BUT ... shimmed valves rarely need adjustment. It's easy to check them
    and you can save a few hundred dollars that the dealer would charge (their
    price is usually worst case where they need to spend a few hours changing
    out lots of shims). If they check OK, no need for further work.

    Checking brakes is another easy thing.

    It's been a long time since I've had a new car that needed a 60K checkup.
    In the two previous cases ( '83 Camry, '86 MR2 ) nothing needed adjustment.
    Everything checked out good. I just replaced the indicated filters, etc.
    Total cost under $100 and a few hours of checking things.
     
    Kurt Krueger, Dec 14, 2006
    #19
  20. Hi,

    Uh, did you see the name K&N in my post?

    If not, you're reading something in I didn't say. However, if you like
    K&N filters, that's fine. It's your money you're spending.

    But let's think about something here: K&N is not the only company who
    makes (or has made) an oilable "no replacement" filter. Any car mfr has
    access to them, and I'm sure K&N would LOVE to get an OEM contract
    (maybe the folks I know who've worked for 'em--the company's only a half
    hour from me--could get a raise?) Yet we don't see K&N or any other
    "serviceable" filter on a factory car today.

    Conspiracy theorists will claim that's cuz the mfrs want to sell a lot
    of paper filters. Some engineers will claim it's cuz paper filters trap
    more "stuff" and keep the engine cleaner. W/o seeing side by side data
    from controlled tests, it's your call who is right.

    BTW, YES, I HAVE used serviceable filters in the past. I've returned to
    the paper ones...

    Rick C
     
    Rick Courtright, Dec 14, 2006
    #20
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