High Mileage Preventive Maintenance Recommendations?

[BobN]

My 98 Outback Ltd. has now reached 218,000 miles. It's had very few
problems during its life, and I'd like to keep it that way. I know that
once cars reach a certain age some very expensive things can go wrong, and
would like to avoid that by doing the best possible preventive maintenance.
I'd also like to do as much of the work myself as possible since my
tightening budget doesn't allow for hundreds of $$ to spend on routine
maintenance at the local dealer. The car had its last "30K mile service" by
the dealer 18 months ago at around 150K.

Other than regular oil/filter changes, what should I do at this stage? I am
considering:

1. new sparkplugs

2. wheel bearings: can I flush them with new grease without removing them?

3. AT, diff and brake fluids: my local dump will recycle engine oil, but how
do I get rid of these other nasty fluids?

4. Fuel filter: how often should this be changed?

5. Other lubrication points: what/where are they and how often should I do
them?

6. Oil: It seems to use about 1 quart per 1500 miles. Should I try using an
additive or a heavier weight? Would it do good, harm or nothing to switch
to synthetic?

Other recommendations?

Thanks.

 

[Jim Stewart]

My 98 Outback Ltd. has now reached 218,000 miles. It's had very few
problems during its life, and I'd like to keep it that way. I know that
once cars reach a certain age some very expensive things can go wrong, and
would like to avoid that by doing the best possible preventive maintenance.
I'd also like to do as much of the work myself as possible since my
tightening budget doesn't allow for hundreds of $$ to spend on routine
maintenance at the local dealer. The car had its last "30K mile service" by
the dealer 18 months ago at around 150K.

Other than regular oil/filter changes, what should I do at this stage? I am
considering:

1. new sparkplugs

2. wheel bearings: can I flush them with new grease without removing them?

3. AT, diff and brake fluids: my local dump will recycle engine oil, but how
do I get rid of these other nasty fluids?

4. Fuel filter: how often should this be changed?

5. Other lubrication points: what/where are they and how often should I do
them?

6. Oil: It seems to use about 1 quart per 1500 miles. Should I try using an
additive or a heavier weight? Would it do good, harm or nothing to switch
to synthetic?

Have you kept up with timing belt changes?

 

[BobN]

Thanks, Jim. Yes, timing belt changes have been right on schedule, done by
the dealer.

 

[Rick Courtright]

Other recommendations?

Hi,

Do you have a manual (Haynes, Chilton's?) to refer to? If so, you should
find some general guidelines on maintenance intervals, as well as what's
in your owners manual. If you don't have the owners manual, your dealer
should be able to order one for you. One way or another, be sure to get
"the books" and do your "homework."

Most of the items you asked about are fairly easy for the average home
"wrench" to attend to. The wheel bearings don't lend themselves to easy
cleaning without removal, so if you're going to that trouble you might
want to just replace 'em. I've added grease to wheel bearings in an
effort to extend their life, and while it didn't hurt, I can't say it
really helped (they were already kinda dry, so damage had been done that
fresh grease wouldn't "undo.") Any time you pull the seals on the wheel
bearings, be sure to install new ones.

As Jim said, keep up w/ t-belt changes. When you do a t-belt, be sure to
do the seals on the front of the engine: crank main seal, oil pump seal
on front and o-rings on back--one of our friends here suggests putting
blue Loc-tite on the screws that hold the cover--and cam seals. Many
suggest replacing the water pump w/ each t-belt change. I usually get
well over 100k miles on my water pumps (using 50-50 green Prestone w/
DISTILLED water!), so every other change works for me. You can google
this group for other suggestions on t-belt "extras" like tensioners,
etc. New valve cover gaskets won't hurt, either.

Your oil usage sounds "normal" for an engine w/ the kind of miles yours
has. That's about what mine was using "back then," and it went to about
1 qt/1000 miles by the time it had 300k. No biggie. Rings have some
wear, valve seals are probably pretty stiff, brittle or cracked. Much
easier to pour in oil than fix the problem, and mine always passed smog
testing just fine, so I didn't worry. Some report good results w/
"hi-mileage" oils, but I haven't tried them.

You might also save a little money to set aside for a new radiator if
you're still on the original, if there's ANY hint of overheating, since
many people have posted notes about clogging after 100k miles or so.
Also, when you change coolant (I do it every other year, some do it
every year) a new t-stat (use a Subie OEM unit!) should be installed.

Good luck!

Rick

 

[BobN]

Thanks, Rick. Funny about the coolant, the gauge has always come up to
correct temp and stayed there no matter what the traffic conditions or
weather. I looked at the coolant yesterday and it looks like new.

If 300K was a while back, how many miles does your Suby have now?

 

[Rick Courtright]

If 300K was a while back, how many miles does your Suby have now?

Hi,

It "gave up the ghost" last month at 360k plus! Haven't had time to tear
it down to see if there's anything worth saving in there or it's time
for a "new" engine. That's a project for the next few weeks...

Now IF the previous owner had been as good about maintenance as he
SHOULD have, I might STILL be driving along on the original engine!
Standing bet w/ friends was on whether the car could go a half million.
I put 150k on an engine I knew wasn't that strong when I got it, so
maybe with a healthier replacement, they'll end up having to buy me a
beer after all!

Rick

 

[Bonehenge]

Hi,

It "gave up the ghost" last month at 360k plus! Haven't had time to tear
it down to see if there's anything worth saving in there or it's time
for a "new" engine. That's a project for the next few weeks...

With 360k, I'd tear it down just for the autopsy. <G>

Barry

 

[Rick Courtright]

With 360k, I'd tear it down just for the autopsy. <G>

Definitely!

It died a quick but simple death--coming up a long and warm grade, it
started losing power quite rapidly, then all of a sudden a huge cloud of
white smoke billowed from the exhaust, I pulled over quickly and as soon
as the engine dropped to an idle it quit. Water temp and oil pressure
were normal before the revs dropped, and not a single unusual noise was
heard. Trying to restart, it would seemingly fire and quit, like there
was compression on one bank but none on the other (not like that
sickening "nothing" sound as you crank a non-interference engine w/ a
broken t-belt! Been there, too--that's how I learned Subie OEM t-belts
are the only way to go!) There was only a small puddle of oil under the
right side as I awaited the tow truck, and once the car was home and
"lying in state" in the garage, a small bit of coolant dripped out that
side, too.

If it were a person I'd say it suffered a ruptured aneurysm or something
similar that drops one like a stone... I'll report the "findings" when I
get a chance to do the post-mortem!

Rick