Hi-Power Bulbs Warning

J

jMon

I put 80/100 9007 bulbs in my 03 Baja a few months ago. Yesterday the
left one failed. I discovered if I jiggled the connector it would
come on for a while then go off again. Upon closer inspection I found
the connector had started to melt at the end where one of the bulb's
three prongs was inserted. Luckily, it hadn't gotten too far and
switching back to the standard bulbs seems to work so far.

I've used high powered bulbs in most of my vehicles for over 30 years
and this is the first time I've ever had a problem.
 
The heat problem can be worked around by simply using the CORRECT high
powered bulbs. Xenon bulbs burn much cooler than conventional bulbs. Also
the capacity of the wiring harness comes into play. If the load is too much
for the wiring not only will the harness get hot but you will not get the
80/100 watts !
The correct way to do this mod is with a home made harness stubbed to the
original harness....the original relay, switch, etc. is used but on the bulb
side of the real the power goes directly from the battery with proper gauge
wire. TG
 
In
TG said:
The heat problem can be worked around by simply using the CORRECT high
powered bulbs. Xenon bulbs burn much cooler than conventional bulbs.
Also the capacity of the wiring harness comes into play. If the load
is too much for the wiring not only will the harness get hot but you
will not get the 80/100 watts !
The correct way to do this mod is with a home made harness stubbed
to the original harness....the original relay, switch, etc. is used
but on the bulb side of the real the power goes directly from the
battery with proper gauge wire. TG

And yet another sucker falls for the "Xenon" ad line. Watts are watts, and
if a 100/80 bulb draws what it says it does, it's going to pull 8.33/6.66
amps of current regardless of what ad copy is pasted on the box. The stock
60/55 bulbs pull 5.00/4.58 amps of current. The heat problem isn't the
temperature of the bulb, it's the fact that the dinky little wires in the
headlight system and the spindly little contacts on the bulb simply can't
take the increased current draw. I burned out both sides of my headlight
system running cheap ('cause no-one reputable makes overwatt 9007s) 100/80
Heliobulb POSs. I had to install a relay kit simply to restore my
headlights to functionality.

That said, a relay kit combined with a set of Sylvania XtraVision bulbs will
give you more usable light (albeit without that stylish ricer-blue color)
than anything that says "Xenon" on the box. Also, the cost of the relay kit
($50 or so from Daniel Stern Lighting, hint-hint) and the bulbs ($14.95/pair
from Advance Auto Parts) will be comparable in price to a pair of any POS
PIAA "Xenon" or "Superwhite" bulbs.
 
Sucker? All I said was "Xenon bulbs burn much cooler than conventional
bulbs." That is a fact, just like a 40 watt neon is cooler by far than a 40
watt incandescent. Of course they draw the same amperage. TG
 
Sucker? All I said was "Xenon bulbs burn much cooler than conventional
bulbs." That is a fact, just like a 40 watt neon is cooler by far
than a 40 watt incandescent. Of course they draw the same amperage. TG

First, I'm pretty sure that any incandescent bulb of a given wattage will
*generate* identical heat to any other incandescent bulb. (I might be wrong
here -- The heat generation could be different if different filament
materials are used. But to the best of my knowledge, all modern
incandescent bulbs use a tungsten filament.) But the different immersion
gases that might used in different incandescent bulbs might have different
thermodynamic properties, meaning that one gas transfers heat from the
filament out to the glass (and therefore out of the bulb) faster than
another gas. This would cause one bulb's filament to run cooler than the
other, despite *generating* an identical amount of heat. (The same way a
heater creating "X" BTU's of heat will keep an insulated building warmer
than a non-insulated one.) And it is the filament's temperature that by and
large determines the temperatures at the electrical connections to the bulb.
(Though the thermodynamic properties of the bulb base material and the
electrical conduits inside it also play a small part.)

But I think what Ned was referring to wasn't the actual bulb temp so much as
the temp of the wires supplying power to the bulb. *This* temperature is
directly related to the current passing through them and nothing else. And
for a constant voltage, a higher-wattage bulb *must* draw more current, and
therefore must generate more heat in the wires that supply it. The only way
to draw more current through a wire without generating more heat is to
replace it with a different wire -- either of a larger gauge or a less
resistive conducting material.

Secondly, putting genuine HID bulbs (and I've seen "Xenon" used to label
both
real HID lights *and* incandescent upgrade bulbs) into reflectors designed
for incandescent bulbs is both annoying to other drivers and potentially
dangerous for you. Such kits do exist, but should not be legal. The only
safe HID conversion is one that includes new reflectors. (See
http://www.danielsternlighting.com) I don't know whether the "Xenon" bulbs
to which you refer are actual HID bulbs (complete with a high-voltage
transformer) or just fancy-named incandescent. But your remark about
drawing less current (which real HID's do) caused me to suspect the former.

Thirdly, putting over-wattage bulbs in your car is extremely *selfish* as it
improves your night vision to the detriment of everybody else on the road.
Running over-wattage bulbs is roughly equivalent in driver courtesy to
refusing to dim your high-beams for approaching traffic. It makes the
statement "I can see better and I don't give a damn what price you're paying
for it." I'll grant that there are some poorly-designed headlights out
there that just don't do a good job of illuminating the road. But these are
by-and-large aiming and dispersion pattern problems. And they're not a
legitimate excuse to make the rest of us suffer.

The headlights in my wife's old Mercury Sable station wagon both blinded
approaching drivers (even on low-beam) *and* did a poor job of illuminating
the road (even on high-beam). The bulbs threw out plenty of light, but none
of it seemed to hit the road -- it was all aimed too high. And no amount of
adjusting seemed able to alleviate these problems. So while I was confident
that obstacles (like deer or people or other vehicles) would have been
safely illuminated had they jumped out in front of the car, these lights
made driving at night very discomforting, because you couldn't see the
*road* very well.

Had we decided to replace her car's bulbs with over-wattage versions, we
might have improved my wife's ability to see the road at night, but we'd
*definitely* have worsened the blinding of approaching drivers. I
considered, but eventually rejected, the idea of adding driving lights,
because they would have worsened the already-bad blinding of approaching
traffic. (Which, BTW, is also dangerous in addition to being rude.) So we
just lived with it until we got rid of the car. We eventually gave the car
to my wife's sister, who's managed to avoid getting into any night-time
accidents with it so far. But I'm still optimistic. :) If I had it to do
again, I probably would go ahead and install some auxiliary lights that were
aimed nice and low, so as not to badly affect approaching traffic while
still illuminating the road directly in front of the car. But I will never
install over-wattage bulbs in any car, nor will I abide those who do.

- Greg Reed
 
I agree with your point up to a point... yes it sure is rude and
dangerous to blind oncoming drivers with over powered or even normal
powered lights but if they are properly aimed, what is the harm (to
oncoming traffic) of using high powered bulbs?
 
Sorry, it's just not possible to break that law. :)

-John O

You're right John. I wonder if people are getting confused between the
actual wattage of a neon/fluorescent/whatever bulb and the (higher)
wattage a incandescent filament bulb would need to get an equivalent
amount of light.

At home I use compact fluorescent bulbs that I could touch in use
without getting burned. The package said they have the same light as a
60 watt regular bulb, and it looks bright, but it's only using up 15
watts so it feels much cooler to the touch.

Greg is correct in that it is usually the wiring and switches that are
the weak link when higher wattage headlight bulbs are swapped in. I had
a VW I modified to keep the low beams on when the high beams were
activated. I had to replace the headlight switch twice over 3 years
because of the increased electrical load. Wasn't the smartest thing I
ever did.

- Byron
 
I found Daniel Stern's site, thanks for that, but don't see how one
buys off it. Does one have to e-mail him just to buy from him?
 
I think what the chap was getting at was that it is not the temperature of
the bulb that caused the harness to melt, but the heat came from too much
current in a small wire.

Henry
 
You're right John. I wonder if people are getting confused between the
actual wattage of a neon/fluorescent/whatever bulb and the (higher)
wattage a incandescent filament bulb would need to get an equivalent
amount of light.

Yeah, I think. The number of photons (or some such yap) you get for a given
amount of power varies tremendously between bulb types, fluorescent gives
off a lot more light-per-watt, and LEDs are even better. But
power=watts=heat...no matter what the subject. :)

-John O
 
I've run Hella Halogen 80/100 or 60/100 in three different Outbacks with no
wiring failures. I live in the Adirondack Park in NY and drive long
stretches of road on high beam without seeing another car so I have high
potential to burn out wiring. The 100W halogens really do light up the road
(to see the deer) very well. I have not tried the Daniel Stern recommended
relay system, but it makes inherent sense to provide the highest possible
voltage and current to the lamps.
Mark
 
In
jMon said:
I agree with your point up to a point... yes it sure is rude and
dangerous to blind oncoming drivers with over powered or even normal
powered lights but if they are properly aimed, what is the harm (to
oncoming traffic) of using high powered bulbs?

Lamp reflectors are designed for a certain luminance. Shove more luminance
into the lamp and glare happens. Also, since no reputable bulb manufacturer
makes overwatt 9007s, the bulbs available in that wattage range are not
built to the same tolerances/specifications as quality bulbs. If the bulb
filament isn't in the exact position in 3D space that the headlight designer
expected, the reflector will not work properly. Finally, the mere fact that
no-one flashes their high beams at you as you pass by with your massively
glaring headlights can't be taken as an indication of lack of glare. Since
glare levels are up all around (ref: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/)
many drivers just accept it as part of the landscape.
 
In
jMon said:
I found Daniel Stern's site, thanks for that, but don't see how one
buys off it. Does one have to e-mail him just to buy from him?

He doesn't have a web store; all transactions take place via e-mail or
phone. That said, I was 100% satisfied with my transaction. In my
experience, DS is always willing to answer questions from those who are
installing stuff they've bought from him. He helped me greatly in my
installation. (Unsolicited mad props).
 
I put 80/100 9007 bulbs in my 03 Baja a few months ago. Yesterday the
left one failed. I discovered if I jiggled the connector it would
come on for a while then go off again. Upon closer inspection I found
the connector had started to melt at the end where one of the bulb's
three prongs was inserted. Luckily, it hadn't gotten too far and
switching back to the standard bulbs seems to work so far.

I've used high powered bulbs in most of my vehicles for over 30 years
and this is the first time I've ever had a problem.

I for one am glad your blinding of other drivers has finally bitten
you in the ass.
 

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