Grinding noise when turning sharply

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Manuel Freitas, Jan 20, 2004.

  1. Ok, I've searched the archives and found similar posts and answers,
    but not quite what I'm experiencing. I have a 99OBW that is making a
    grinding and shuttering noise when I do a sharp turn like getting
    in/out of a parking space.
    It kinda vibrates too. But here's where I find this to be different
    from other posts I've seen here: It only happens after I've driven the
    car at reasonable speed and a reasonable distance, like 15 miles on
    the highway.

    This doesn't happen at all when the car is cold in the morning, or
    after driving the daily 5 mile commute to and from work.

    Any guesses as to what could be causing this problem?

    - Manuel.
     
    Manuel Freitas, Jan 20, 2004
    #1
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  2. Manuel Freitas

    FFF Guest

    Check your tires for even circumference/inflation.
    If they're okay, your center differential may be shot. If it's a manual
    transmission, it is the transfer plates and silicone inside the viscous coupling -
    problems when cornering. The automatic has amore complex system, but the
    principle is the same, though.
    I had the entire transmission assbly swapped out with a nearly new one from the
    junkyard ($450+ labour) on my 95 Legacy and that fixed it.

    florian
     
    FFF, Jan 20, 2004
    #2
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  3. Manuel Freitas

    tomcas Guest

    How many miles on the car?
    Does it happen when the wheels are pointed in both directions or only one
    direction?
    The first thing that comes to mind if the car has more than 60K miles or a
    torn CV boot is that the CV joint has just started to fail- hence why it
    only happens under certain conditions.
    If it is the CV joint it will eventually make noise under all conditions
    when making a sharp corner.
     
    tomcas, Jan 21, 2004
    #3
  4. Manuel Freitas

    SUBBIE99 Guest

    (Manuel Freitas) wrote in
    Sounds like the CV joints are going bad. Are there oil drops underneath
    the wheels? If there are,the CV boots have torn & you'll need knew CV
    joints. Happened to my Subaru. There is a clicking sound when you make a
    sharp turn.
     
    SUBBIE99, Jan 21, 2004
    #4
  5. Manuel Freitas

    BoB Guest

    My 'guess' would be that insufficiently lubricated parts have
    heated up to a point where it becomes noticeable.

    My Subaru dealer explained how to relieve a similar scenario.
    Find an open parking area and make very 'slow' wheel to wheel
    figure 8's, at least 5-6 times. Turn the steering wheel as far
    as it will go in each direction, fairly quickly so the figure 8's
    are as small as possible. That's why you do it slowly so there is
    no chance of damaging anything and you are not leaving ugly rubber
    marks on someone's parking lot.

    Try this for at least a few days and see if it will reduce or
    eliminate the 'bucking when turning'. Hot or cold shouldn't matter
    as you are trying to get the 'ends' of the transaxles lubricated.
    The dealer said this was not an uncommon problem if you seldom
    have a need to turn the steering wheel to its end points.

    If the CV's are not cracked or leaking, the bucking when making slow,
    sharp turns does not indicate a problem in need of repair. My '95
    Legacy wagon developed bucking at 55k and the transaxles weren't
    replaced until 118k. My 800' solid rock driveway had a 25% grade which
    is what 'did-in' my transaxles. I was surprised they lasted that long.

    HTH,

    BoB
     
    BoB, Jan 21, 2004
    #5
  6. I had the exact symptoms as Manuel on my WRX. It was the center differential dying.
     
    Andrew and Estelle Smith, Jan 22, 2004
    #6
  7. Manuel Freitas

    FFF Guest

    <snip>

    Thanks Andrew and Estelle!
    I thought I was the only one here.
    To the original poster:
    When I researched this problem for my own Subaru, I also got quite a few replies
    pointing to the CV joints.

    The mechanic(s) first thought it was the clutch pin bearing, then the CV joint,
    then the drive shaft/universal. You can burn through a fair bit of cash
    following the advice of other people - however well intended. In the end It's
    you who drives the car most, and it makes sense to develop the skills for
    isolating problems yourself - even if you don't intend to get grease on your
    hands yourself.

    In this specific case, try the following: drive the car until warm. As soon as
    the problem appears on dry pavement, try cornering the car on sand (wet grass or
    similar). If the symptoms go away or appear less severe, you can safely assume
    it's the differential.

    florian
     
    FFF, Jan 22, 2004
    #7
  8. Manuel Freitas

    tomcas Guest

    The lesson to be learned here is to let the mechanic tell what the problem
    is. After all, he's right there under the car, or road testing it, or
    whatever. He's not siting in front of his PC reading the input from someone
    who is trying to explain what something sounds like, smells like, looks
    like, or whatever. If you provide this kind of info, and someone advises you
    to tell you mechanic to replace a certain part, he will be glad to, and if
    that's not the problem you have only yourself to blame. If the problem seems
    to much for your mechanic then take it to the Subaru dealer. He probably has
    a service bulletin, and it may be a repair covered under warranty or recall.
    For those people who actually work on thier own cars who happen to read
    this- never mind, you already know to take all advice with a pinch of salt.
     
    tomcas, Jan 24, 2004
    #8
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