[Fwd: 2001 Forester Check Engine/Cat Conv Problems]

B

Bill

I will get the code(s) tomorrow and post them here. I have in the past
taken it to be scanned at the parts store but don't remember the codes.
The dealer has never offered me the codes that came up when they
scanned it, but I've never asked either.

Bill, suggest the first thing you do is to have the "codes pulled" from
the car's on board computer. A code read out will tell you exactly why
the "check engine light" is coming on. I am surprised that the dealer
and independent shop haven't already done that. If so, they should have
told you the result of their diagnostic work.

Once the diagnostic work is completed, then you will know if you need a
new cat converter or not, though, I have my doubts that is your
problem. However, if you need a new cat, I wouldn't suggest doing the
work yourself. All bolts on an exhaust system get rusted to the point
of not unscrewing. All shops put a car up on a lift, to easily get at
the underside, then torch off, or cut off the muffler system.

Pull the codes first, good luck! Larry


-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 2001 Forester Check Engine/Cat Conv Problems
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2007 23:29:12 -0500
From: Bill <(e-mail address removed)>
Newsgroups: alt.autos.subaru


I have a 2001 Forester that I bought new with 101k miles and the check
engine light has been coming on since 91k. I've taken to the dealer
twice (91k and 101k) as well as a independent shop (97k). The dealer
replaced the Knock Sensor and cleaned the Air Assist Valve (91k). The
independent performed an Air Induction Service (97k). When the check
engine light came back on less than 2 weeks after having it in with the
independent, he didn't want to deal with it anymore but said that
perhaps the "cat is showing it's age". I took it back to the dealer with
101k and they now claim that the catalytic converter needs to be
replaced but want $1050 for it. I called an independent exhaust shop
and they quoted me $550. For what it's worth, the Front O2 sensor was
replaced under recall at 81K.

My questions are:

1 - How hard is it to replace the catalytic converter? Do I need
special tools and I'm guessing getting the bolts loosened may be a
chore. Will I need a manual and do you have a recommendation?

2 - Where can I get parts? I called an Autozone and Advance Auto Parts
and neither of them carry the parts. I have yet to try the dealer but
have looked online and a few places claim they have them in the $300
range. Do you have to get any gaskets, etc or do these come with the
part when you order.

I appreciate the feedback because saving $700 from the dealer if it's a
few bolts I need to turn would make me very happy!

Thanks,
Bill
 
Went to the auto store yesterday and the code scanner showed P0420 -
"Catalyst system inefficient for Bank 1". Could definitely use some
help with solving this problem!

Thanks.
Bill
 
Bill said:
Went to the auto store yesterday and the code scanner showed P0420 -
"Catalyst system inefficient for Bank 1". Could definitely use some
help with solving this problem!

Thanks.
Bill

Most likely the front O2 sensor is getting lazy. A good mech can test
it. Or, you could changes it out yourself. I'd say you have a better
than 75% chance that it is the problem. Your car has the right number of
miles for this issue. That code is saying, basically, the rear O2
disagrees with the front O2. other than a wiring issue or bad ECU, it
comes down to a bad rear sensor, front sensor or cat converter. The
front sensor is exposed to more heat and more volatile gasses and
usually begins dying around 80K - 120K miles.

my $0.02

Carl
 
Thanks for the info Carl.

Just another note, I had a 1/4 tank and filled it up with 93 octane.
CEL went off. I don't want to have to fill it with more expensive gas
always, but maybe a tank every once in a while will keep the light off.
Any similar experiences out there?

I have been reading on the web with other Forester owners with the same
problem. What I have read, a number of people have encountered the same
problem and have changed either a combination of both O2 and Cat and the
light remained on or returned after a very short period of time. This
makes me very reluctant to begin the costly option of replacing parts to
no avail. Some of these people were not very happy having spent over a
$1000 without any result. I can't say I blame them. I have a call into
the dealer on how much a OEM cat would cost.

I'll post again in a little while on the status of the light. Sooner if
it comes back on quickly!
 

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