Front end problem with 98 impreza L

[runout23]

Ive got a '98 Impreza L wagon with about 200k miles on it. the car has
been bullet proof up to now, havent had a single problem with it.
Last night it started to shake noticably at about 65mph, like the
shaking you get with bad alignment but worse. slowed down and it
seemed to go away. Then tonight it happed again VERY bad shaking and
pulling extremely hard to the right. dident go away when I slowed down
tonight, and I started hearing a loud, mechanical pop or click from
the front left wheel.

Im guessing CV joint or wheel bearing? I do most little stuff on my
car myself but I know very little about the front end/suspension.
There is a boot over the CV joint where the axle meets the left wheel,
the boot is cracked and open, the joint looks ok to me but im not sure
if I would be able to tell if it was bad by looking at it.

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks

 

[johninky]

Ive got a '98 Impreza L wagon with about 200k miles on it. the car has
been bullet proof up to now, havent had a single problem with it.
Last night it started to shake noticably at about 65mph, like the
shaking you get with bad alignment but worse. slowed down and it
seemed to go away. Then tonight it happed again VERY bad shaking and
pulling extremely hard to the right. dident go away when I slowed down
tonight, and I started hearing a loud, mechanical pop or click from
the front left wheel.

Im guessing CV joint or wheel bearing? I do most little stuff on my
car myself but I know very little about the front end/suspension.
There is a boot over the CV joint where the axle meets the left wheel,
the boot is cracked and open, the joint looks ok to me but im not sure
if I would be able to tell if it was bad by looking at it.

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks

Shaking and pulling to the right suggests something is failing on the
right side. I'd suspect that side CV axle. When the inner joint
begins to fail, that can cause a lot of vibration. Don't know if that
failure would cause the car to pull.

 

[S]

Hi Runout!

Im guessing CV joint or wheel bearing? I do most little stuff on my
car myself but I know very little about the front end/suspension.
There is a boot over the CV joint where the axle meets the left wheel,
the boot is cracked and open, the joint looks ok to me but im not sure
if I would be able to tell if it was bad by looking at it.

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks

Check the boots on the axles. Usually a failure here is initiated by a
torn boot. The axles aren't too hard to replace, write back if you
need beta.

Also check your lug nuts.

ByeBye! S.


Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[runout23]

Hi Runout!




Check the boots on the axles. Usually a failure here is initiated by a
torn boot. The axles aren't too hard to replace, write back if you
need beta.

Also check your lug nuts.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[runout23]

Hi Runout!




Check the boots on the axles. Usually a failure here is initiated by a
torn boot. The axles aren't too hard to replace, write back if you
need beta.

Also check your lug nuts.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

Thanks for the input Steve. I did check the lugs, that was my first
thought because by coincidence I had the wheels off the day before to
check the break pads. Since my first post I have been driving the car
a little bit and the problem is very intermittent. Ill drive it for a
whole day and have no problem and then the next day it'll do it
again. the shake only happens under power, as soon as I take my foot
off the gas it gets considerably better.

I also took it to a mechanic, he drove it and the problem dident
happen, he looked at the front end and said he dident see anything
wrong, dont know if I trust this assement though since he dident even
mention the cracked axle boot. he dident charge me though, so no harm
no foul i guess.

The boot on the drivers side CV joint is definitely cracked and pretty
much wide open. If it was the joint would the problem come and go
though? I talked to somone who mentioned a steering damper, any idea
if the imprezza has one? If it has a damper and it is shot it would
explain why the problem is so intermittent, then it would only shake
when the road vibration happend to send it into resonance. any
thoughts on this idea?

 

[S]

Hi Runout!

Thanks for the input Steve. I did check the lugs, that was my first
thought because by coincidence I had the wheels off the day before to
check the break pads. Since my first post I have been driving the car
a little bit and the problem is very intermittent. Ill drive it for a
whole day and have no problem and then the next day it'll do it
again. the shake only happens under power, as soon as I take my foot
off the gas it gets considerably better.

I also took it to a mechanic, he drove it and the problem dident
happen, he looked at the front end and said he dident see anything
wrong, dont know if I trust this assement though since he dident even
mention the cracked axle boot. he dident charge me though, so no harm
no foul i guess.

The boot on the drivers side CV joint is definitely cracked and pretty
much wide open. If it was the joint would the problem come and go
though? I talked to somone who mentioned a steering damper, any idea
if the imprezza has one? If it has a damper and it is shot it would
explain why the problem is so intermittent, then it would only shake
when the road vibration happend to send it into resonance. any
thoughts on this idea?

Well, for sure you need to do something about the torn boot.
Sometimes, if the boot hasn't been bad for long, you can clean and
re-lube the joint, fit a new boot, and go. Since this is probably more
of a pain than simply replacing the axle, I wouldn't recommend it
unless you just like to tinker, or are strapped for cash. A
re-manufactured axle is around $70.
I don't think any of the Subaru's use a steering damper.
Other than that, while your front end is up on jackstands for the axle
work, have a real good look at the linkages, sway-bar bushings and end
links, and ball joints. Check to be sure the steering rack mounting is
tight. Check the strut tops, both the rubber cushion, and the bearing.
Pull the wheels and check the brake calipers, particularly the
"floating" mechanism, and pad springs (whatever you call 'em). Move
the rear wheels to the front, and see if anything changes. Generally,
if everything looks good, and feels tight, it's probably OK. If you
find torn boots, excess grease on the outside, or looseness, replace
the part.
My money would be on the axle at this point, but it really doesn't
take too much extra effort to run thru the check list, and if
everything looks good, you've bought some peace of mind, anyway.

ByeBye! S.


Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[synthius2002]

In my case, the shop that actually repairs things said they thought it
was
"overtightened spindle nut"
which happened right after my tire rotation at one of the other kind
of shop.

Nils

 

[runout23]

Hi Runout!





Well, for sure you need to do something about the torn boot.
Sometimes, if the boot hasn't been bad for long, you can clean and
re-lube the joint, fit a new boot, and go. Since this is probably more
of a pain than simply replacing the axle, I wouldn't recommend it
unless you just like to tinker, or are strapped for cash. A
re-manufactured axle is around $70.
I don't think any of the Subaru's use a steering damper.
Other than that, while your front end is up on jackstands for the axle
work, have a real good look at the linkages, sway-bar bushings and end
links, and ball joints. Check to be sure the steering rack mounting is
tight. Check the strut tops, both the rubber cushion, and the bearing.
Pull the wheels and check the brake calipers, particularly the
"floating" mechanism, and pad springs (whatever you call 'em). Move
the rear wheels to the front, and see if anything changes. Generally,
if everything looks good, and feels tight, it's probably OK. If you
find torn boots, excess grease on the outside, or looseness, replace
the part.
My money would be on the axle at this point, but it really doesn't
take too much extra effort to run thru the check list, and if
everything looks good, you've bought some peace of mind, anyway.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Alright, well, I broke down and took it to a shop to check things out,
they told be the ball joints were bad in addition to the CV boots
being cracked, but they said that the ball joints were likely the
cause of shaking. So, $460 later I have new ball joints, dident have
them replace the axles, And this morning the shaking is back and
worse! guess its axles afterall. Im gonna take a shot at the axles
myself this weekend.

will I need to re-align after replacing the axles? you mentioned
having beta on replacing the axles, that would be great. Thanks for
the help again.

Evan

 

[runout23]

Hi Runout!





Well, for sure you need to do something about the torn boot.
Sometimes, if the boot hasn't been bad for long, you can clean and
re-lube the joint, fit a new boot, and go. Since this is probably more
of a pain than simply replacing the axle, I wouldn't recommend it
unless you just like to tinker, or are strapped for cash. A
re-manufactured axle is around $70.
I don't think any of the Subaru's use a steering damper.
Other than that, while your front end is up on jackstands for the axle
work, have a real good look at the linkages, sway-bar bushings and end
links, and ball joints. Check to be sure the steering rack mounting is
tight. Check the strut tops, both the rubber cushion, and the bearing.
Pull the wheels and check the brake calipers, particularly the
"floating" mechanism, and pad springs (whatever you call 'em). Move
the rear wheels to the front, and see if anything changes. Generally,
if everything looks good, and feels tight, it's probably OK. If you
find torn boots, excess grease on the outside, or looseness, replace
the part.
My money would be on the axle at this point, but it really doesn't
take too much extra effort to run thru the check list, and if
everything looks good, you've bought some peace of mind, anyway.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well, took it to a shop, the said the ball joints were bad and i had
them replace them. $460 later i have new ball joints and the shaking
is back again and worse! guess it was the CV axles after all. Im gonna
takle them this weekend myself.

any beta you have would be awesome, will i need to re-align afterward?
Thanks for all the help,

Evan

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

Alright, well, I broke down and took it to a shop to check things out,
they told be the ball joints were bad in addition to the CV boots
being cracked, but they said that the ball joints were likely the
cause of shaking. So, $460 later I have new ball joints, dident have
them replace the axles, And this morning the shaking is back and
worse! guess its axles afterall.  Im gonna take a shot at the axles
myself this weekend.

will I need to re-align after replacing the axles? you mentioned
having beta on replacing the axles, that would be great. Thanks for
the help again.

Evan

You should try to take it back to the shop and complain, nicely. Take
a guy for a ride and demonstarte the shaking. tell him you expected it
to be fixed, did he test drive it, how would he feel if he were you,
etc. Try to get them to fix the axles labor at no charge if you buy
the parts.

Though honestly, you could have tires that are now bad due to the worn
ball joints. Sucks to have so many issues at once, but unless the
axles are clicking - they can last a long time before failure. The
shaking may be tires, rotors, forzen U-joint or ???

But the shop couls have done better diagnosis I think.

 

[S]

Hi Evan!

will I need to re-align after replacing the axles? you mentioned
having beta on replacing the axles, that would be great. Thanks for
the help again.

Axles are pretty straight forward; nothing will need to be adjusted
afterwards, no special tools required, but a stout 1/2 inch air impact
wrench will be handy. Other than that, you will need a socket that
fits the axle nuts (30mm ?), a 14mm socket, a long pry bar, a pin
punch to drive the pin from the axle inner end; (3/16 inch, or maybe
the next size smaller. You _don't_ want to get the punch stuck in
there, so check against the hole on the new axle before picking up
your hammer.) And a beefy cheater bar if you don't have an impact
wrench.

Put the front end up on jack stands, and remove the wheels.

It's not strictly necessary, but easier if you get the exhaust out of
the way; remove the nuts where the "Y" pipe bolts up to the heads on
each side, and one bolt that secures the pipe to a hanger. Lift the
"Y" pipe off of the hanger and let it drop a bit. You will now have
enough slack to work with, but be careful of the O2 sensor leads. Use
a bungie to support it if necessary so as not to stress the leads.
Alternately, un-do the bolts/springs where the "Y" pipe hits the
muffler pipe, both O2 sensor connectors, and sit the "Y" pipe aside.
This can be a PITA if those bolts are rusty (usually). Don't try w/o
an impact; you'll just lose skin.

Remove the axle nuts. Note that these are staked in place. If you have
an impact, just fit the appropriate socket and impact them off, if
not, use a small chisel to un-do the staking, and a long pry-bar fit
between adjacent lug nuts (put the nuts back on the studs to protect
the threads) and braced against the ground to keep the hub from
turning while you loosen the nut. These are quite tight, probably
120ftlb or better, so eat your Wheaties.

Remove the pinch bolt where the lower ball joint fits into the hub,
and separate the joint from the hub. Use your pry bar, and watch that
you don't get your fingers. Should be easy, as the ball joints have
just been serviced. The hub and strut should now be free to swing
outward.

Drive the pins out of the axle inner ends. Separate the axle from the
transmission output shaft by moving the hub outward to get enough
slack, and then withdraw the axle from the hub. TaDa!

Clean up the area where the hub seals to the axle, and apply some
fresh grease to the seal lip. Put the axle back in just the way it
came out. Note that one side of the pin hole on the axle is chamfered,
and if you look closely, one side of the matching hole in the output
shaft is as well. Align the chamfered sides, and slide the axle onto
the splines of the output shaft. Verify both visually, and with the
pin punch that the pin holes are aligned, and drive in a pin. Usually
a new one is provided with the replacement axle, but it's OK to re-use
the original if not.

Replace the axle nut finger tite, and re-fit the ball joint to the
hub. You might have to give it a wack to get it to seat properly.

Put everything back like you found it, and be sure to torque the s___
outta that axle nut. Use a chisel to re-do the staking.

I can do both sides in a couple hours, but allow about 1/2 day for
your first time thru.

This is a great time to inspect the rest of the steering linkage, and
the brakes as well.

Hope this helps out.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[runout23]

Hi Evan!



Axles are pretty straight forward; nothing will need to be adjusted
afterwards, no special tools required, but a stout 1/2 inch air impact
wrench will be handy. Other than that, you will need a socket that
fits the axle nuts (30mm ?), a 14mm socket, a long pry bar, a pin
punch to drive the pin from the axle inner end; (3/16 inch, or maybe
the next size smaller. You _don't_ want to get the punch stuck in
there, so check against the hole on the new axle before picking up
your hammer.) And a beefy cheater bar if you don't have an impact
wrench.

Put the front end up on jack stands, and remove the wheels.

It's not strictly necessary, but easier if you get the exhaust out of
the way; remove the nuts where the "Y" pipe bolts up to the heads on
each side, and one bolt that secures the pipe to a hanger. Lift the
"Y" pipe off of the hanger and let it drop a bit. You will now have
enough slack to work with, but be careful of the O2 sensor leads. Use
a bungie to support it if necessary so as not to stress the leads.
Alternately, un-do the bolts/springs where the "Y" pipe hits the
muffler pipe, both O2 sensor connectors, and sit the "Y" pipe aside.
This can be a PITA if those bolts are rusty (usually). Don't try w/o
an impact; you'll just lose skin.

Remove the axle nuts. Note that these are staked in place. If you have
an impact, just fit the appropriate socket and impact them off, if
not, use a small chisel to un-do the staking, and a long pry-bar fit
between adjacent lug nuts (put the nuts back on the studs to protect
the threads) and braced against the ground to keep the hub from
turning while you loosen the nut. These are quite tight, probably
120ftlb or better, so eat your Wheaties.

Remove the pinch bolt where the lower ball joint fits into the hub,
and separate the joint from the hub. Use your pry bar, and watch that
you don't get your fingers. Should be easy, as the ball joints have
just been serviced. The hub and strut should now be free to swing
outward.

Drive the pins out of the axle inner ends. Separate the axle from the
transmission output shaft by moving the hub outward to get enough
slack, and then withdraw the axle from the hub. TaDa!

Clean up the area where the hub seals to the axle, and apply some
fresh grease to the seal lip. Put the axle back in just the way it
came out. Note that one side of the pin hole on the axle is chamfered,
and if you look closely, one side of the matching hole in the output
shaft is as well. Align the chamfered sides, and slide the axle onto
the splines of the output shaft. Verify both visually, and with the
pin punch that the pin holes are aligned, and drive in a pin. Usually
a new one is provided with the replacement axle, but it's OK to re-use
the original if not.

Replace the axle nut finger tite, and re-fit the ball joint to the
hub. You might have to give it a wack to get it to seat properly.

Put everything back like you found it, and be sure to torque the s___
outta that axle nut. Use a chisel to re-do the staking.

I can do both sides in a couple hours, but allow about 1/2 day for
your first time thru.

This is a great time to inspect the rest of the steering linkage, and
the brakes as well.

Hope this helps out.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

Steve,

Thanks for all the help! I replaced both axles on saturday morning, no
problems. you description was acurate and helpful, and they are
working great so far.