EA81 -- opening the case

A

aiiadict

I have all the bolts out...

the case is coming open, stops at about 1"....

Is there a trick to get these things open?

Rich
 
Don't know for sure if this applies to the EA 81 but you first have to
remove the pistons to split an EA 82 case.
 
johninKY said:
Don't know for sure if this applies to the EA 81 but you first have to
remove the pistons to split an EA 82 case.

OK this must be the problem I'm having....

How to remove pistons?

Rich
 
OK this must be the problem I'm having....

How to remove pistons?

Rich
There are wrist pin removal ports on the cylinder 'sides' IIRC.

You might ask/search at www.usmb.net .

that's all I've got-sorry

Carl
 
Carl said:
There are wrist pin removal ports on the cylinder 'sides' IIRC.

ughhh... I was hoping this wasn't the answer.. I saw the ports and
thought to myself "you could get to the wrist pins from there"...
this is gonna be a pain to get back together.

Rich
 
It can be a challenge. Once the circlip per piston is removed, you still
have to pull the wrist pin. Get a long carriage bolt and grind most of
the head off, leaving something that looks like a hook. Works like a
champ removing the pins.
 
I got the wrist pins removed from the front of the engine...

now for unscrewing the access ports... Those suckers are
TIGHT

Rich
 
Got a 14mm allen wrench, unscrewed the access port plugs...

I made a remover tool, but the pins won't come out.. Maybe
"varnish" is stopping them. I'll spray with some cleaner and
report back if it helps.

Rich
 
Hi Rich!

Is there a trick to get these things open?

They can be a real bear. I see you are struggling with the wrist pins
.. . . try making a tool to fit the end of a slide hammer by grinding
down a bolt head such that you can slide it thru the wrist pin and
then catch the far side. If you have to exert more than moderate force
(_should_ come out with only gentle taps with the slide), you are
probably going to damage the piston/wrist pin/rod/cylinder/???.

I haven't had much success rebuilding these engines; once they have
accumulated enough time to _need_ the rebuild, the cam bearing
surfaces and lifters are usually shot as well. (Plus you can't get the
damned things apart as you have noticed.) I'd suggest trying to find a
serviceable used motor; perhaps even buy a complete car to get one, as
the costs will be pretty similar. The ones with hydraulic lifters
(sticker on the valve cover sez "Do Not Adjust" or somesuch) are
probably more desirable, but really _any_ EA81 will work; you may have
to swap intake manifolds, and possibly the "Y" pipe as some have
different exhaust port hardware. Run a quick compression check before
you drag one home; 120 is good, 140 is great, 90-100 isn't.
Absolutely the best way to go is to convert to the 4WD configuration;
this engine setup doesn't use the POS O2 sensor/electronic carb as
found in many early-mid 80's cars.
I have the factory manuals for at least some of these years. Don't
hesitate to contact me directly if you need info; always happy to help
keep the old DL/GLs rolling along :)

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101
 
I got the engine open, replaced rings, main bearings,
rod bearings,

On hand turning the reassembled engine, I get bad
knock from front (flywheel) side of engine, and
very low compression..

I took left head off, noise is reduced...

what are the specs for valve adjustment? I pulled
the valves for one cylinder, and everything still looks
fine.. valves are seating correctly...

camshaft was correctly aligned to crank.

Rich
 
The cam followers were making most of the noise, I
removed the pushrods and turned the engine... there
is still a small knock.

Rich
 

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