Does the fuel pump have to work to engage the starter?

J

JeffK

Hi all,
I have a 2000 outback, 2.5L. For the past month or so its had a
problem getting steadily worse - first thing in the morning when I
turn the key it only makes a "click" - the starter doesn't turn at
all. After about 10 key turns the starter finally engages, it starts
fine, and is usually fine the rest of the day. The battery voltage is
good.

Its in the shop now, and the guy is telling me he thinks it is the
fuel pump. Is that possible? Would a lack of fuel pressure disengage
the starter? My experience with cars is with older volkswagens where
the starter and fuel pump circuits are independent - a bad fuel pump
would still let the starter turn.

Thanks for any help.

cheers,
Jeff
 
JeffK said:
Hi all,
I have a 2000 outback, 2.5L. For the past month or so its had a
problem getting steadily worse - first thing in the morning when I
turn the key it only makes a "click" - the starter doesn't turn at
all. After about 10 key turns the starter finally engages, it starts
fine, and is usually fine the rest of the day. The battery voltage is
good.

Its in the shop now, and the guy is telling me he thinks it is the
fuel pump. Is that possible? Would a lack of fuel pressure disengage
the starter? My experience with cars is with older volkswagens where
the starter and fuel pump circuits are independent - a bad fuel pump
would still let the starter turn.

Thanks for any help.

cheers,
Jeff

My experience with the symtems you describe has be a problem
with a buildup of crud between the battery terminals and the
attachment of the cables. There is enough contact for a
small amount of current to flow but when the higher drain of
a starter is just too much. Cleaning the terminals and
re-tightening the cables solved the problem. If it happens
somewhere inconvenient just attempting to gently twist the
cables on the terminal post is usually enough to get you home.
YMMV
 
Bugalugs said:
My experience with the symtems you describe has be a problem with a
buildup of crud between the battery terminals and the attachment of the
cables. There is enough contact for a small amount of current to flow
but when the higher drain of a starter is just too much. Cleaning the
terminals and re-tightening the cables solved the problem. If it happens
somewhere inconvenient just attempting to gently twist the cables on the
terminal post is usually enough to get you home.
YMMV


PS While it is essential that the fuel pump runs when the
engine is running :>) I don't think there is any circuitry
built in that locks out the starter if the fuel pump does
not run.
 
The starter will work regardless of the condition of the fuel pump. The
fuel pump will stop working a few seconds after the ignition key is
turned to the on position if the starter does not turn the engine (crank
position sensor)

As stated by others, check your battery connections, engine grounds and
your starter motor solenoid. Did you measure the battery voltage when
trying to start the engine? It should be higher than 9V.

Good luck!
 
in message
... first thing in the morning when I
turn the key it only makes a "click" - the starter doesn't turn at
all. After about 10 key turns the starter finally engages, it starts
fine, and is usually fine the rest of the day. The battery voltage is
good.

Its in the shop now, and the guy is telling me he thinks it is the
fuel pump. ...

From the other posts, it should be obvious to you that you need to get
your car out of that shop right now and go somewhere else. You have a
boob working on your car.
 
Bugalugs said:
Cleaning the terminals and re-tightening the cables solved the problem. If it happens
somewhere inconvenient just attempting to gently twist the cables on the terminal post is usually enough to > get you home. YMMV

Hi,

Years ago, a co-worker had a second "night job" driving a tow truck. He
always carried a six pack of Coca Cola in the cab. Purpose: it was the
best "field cleaner" anybody knew of for corroded connections. He said
it's gotta be Coca Cola--apparently that brand has more of the "good
stuff" than others--and gotta be the "real" stuff, not the diet or any
other variants. Yeah, you're gonna have a sticky mess to clean up when
you get home, but if it gets you there, that's a small price to pay, no?

Rick
 
It should be higher than 10.5 or 11 volts.


The starter will work regardless of the condition of the fuel pump. The
fuel pump will stop working a few seconds after the ignition key is
turned to the on position if the starter does not turn the engine (crank
position sensor)

As stated by others, check your battery connections, engine grounds and
your starter motor solenoid. Did you measure the battery voltage when
trying to start the engine? It should be higher than 9V.

Good luck!
 
Hi all,
 I have a 2000 outback, 2.5L. For the past month or so its had a
problem getting steadily worse - first thing in the morning when I
turn the key it only makes a "click" - the starter doesn't turn at
all. After about 10 key turns the starter finally engages, it starts
fine, and is usually fine the rest of the day. The battery voltage is
good.

Its in the shop now, and the guy is telling me he thinks it is the
fuel pump. Is that possible? Would a lack of fuel pressure disengage
the starter? My experience with cars is with older volkswagens where
the starter and fuel pump circuits are independent - a bad fuel pump
would still let the starter turn.

Thanks for any help.

cheers,
 Jeff

fuel pump wouldn't have anything to do with the starter or battery.
start with the simple stuff and work you way up. check your cables for
corrosion and snugness. check the wire(s) on your starter making sure
they are tight and take a volt/ohm meter make sure you have voltage to
the starter. check any secondary grounds. so on and so forth and
hopefully you don't make it to the ingnition. good luck.
 
Thanks everyone. Yep, boobs working on the car - they eventually
wanted to replace the starter - FOR $410!!

With some help from the list archives, I replaced the contacts in the
starter solenoid - One was nearly worn through and they were both
corroded. Cost $10 and took about a half hour. Worked like a charm.

Thanks again,
Jeff
 

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