DIY Timing Belt Replacement

[phatirejunky]

Hi,
I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem I
had was removing crank pulley. I tried conventional methods (strap
wrench/breaker bar), but could not budge bolt. I searched NG and
learned about the bumping starter method. I was very leary of this
method to say the least. I decided to consult my local imports
mechanic, he said he used the starter method whenever conventional
methods fail. He loaned me a breaker bar, mine was not long enough to
reach frame. I carefully positioned breaker bar, one end resting on
drivers side frame, making sure to keep bar parallel to crank pulley. I
removed plug wires from plugs, bumped starter once and bolt was loose.
Rest of job was fairly easy. I used OEM belt and water pump, as many
in this NG suggest. The belt has three marks that are aligned to crank
and cam sprocket marks. I used a T handle breaker bar in conjunction
with a hammer to tighten crank bolt during assembly. Got every thing
assembled, hit starter, and was a happy camper, car started and no leak
at new water pump gasket. Very productive day, I had to take out a
front axle and replace both CV boots before I started on timimg belt
job. Thanks to folks in this NG, both jobs went better than expected!

 

[Michael Pardee]

Hi,
I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem I
had was removing crank pulley. I tried conventional methods (strap
wrench/breaker bar), but could not budge bolt. I searched NG and
learned about the bumping starter method. I was very leary of this
method to say the least. I decided to consult my local imports
mechanic, he said he used the starter method whenever conventional
methods fail.

I only did it once, on my daughter's first car, an old Toyota. It worked
fine but was scary - the front of the car rose several inches.

It's worth mentioning even here in a Subie forum that the starter method
can't be used on Honda products - those engines turn counterclockwise.

Mike

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

Hi,
I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem I
had was removing crank pulley. I tried conventional methods (strap
wrench/breaker bar), but could not budge bolt. I searched NG and
learned about the bumping starter method. I was very leary of this
method to say the least. I decided to consult my local imports
mechanic, he said he used the starter method whenever conventional
methods fail. He loaned me a breaker bar, mine was not long enough to
reach frame. I carefully positioned breaker bar, one end resting on
drivers side frame, making sure to keep bar parallel to crank pulley. I
removed plug wires from plugs, bumped starter once and bolt was loose.
Rest of job was fairly easy. I used OEM belt and water pump, as many
in this NG suggest. The belt has three marks that are aligned to crank
and cam sprocket marks. I used a T handle breaker bar in conjunction
with a hammer to tighten crank bolt during assembly. Got every thing
assembled, hit starter, and was a happy camper, car started and no leak
at new water pump gasket. Very productive day, I had to take out a
front axle and replace both CV boots before I started on timimg belt
job. Thanks to folks in this NG, both jobs went better than expected!

You, Sir, are to be congratulated.
One point - what torque value did you use to replace the crank pulley?
Some say some of the books have a torque too low and it should be higher
(120f/lbs IIRC - anyone?)

Regardless, sounds like a very satisfying experience.


Carl

 

[Edward Hayes]

Crank pulley torque values I've seen in writing 120 & 130 foot/pounds
so I picked 125. If you set the torque too low the pulley will slowly
loosen and probably wreck the key, keyway and crankshaft nose. Use a
torque wrench to be sure. Ed

 

[phatirejunky]

You, Sir, are to be congratulated.
One point - what torque value did you use to replace the crank pulley?
Some say some of the books have a torque too low and it should be higher
(120f/lbs IIRC - anyone?)

Regardless, sounds like a very satisfying experience.


Carl

The service manual spec. is 130.2(within 3.6 either way). I had to
SWAG, no torque wrench. I followed my mechanics advice of using breaker
bar as a slugging wrench. After about 20 miles, still tight.

 

[Remco]

Hi,
I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem I
had was removing crank pulley. I tried conventional methods (strap
wrench/breaker bar), but could not budge bolt. I searched NG and
learned about the bumping starter method. I was very leary of this
method to say the least. I decided to consult my local imports
mechanic, he said he used the starter method whenever conventional
methods fail. He loaned me a breaker bar, mine was not long enough to
reach frame. I carefully positioned breaker bar, one end resting on
drivers side frame, making sure to keep bar parallel to crank pulley. I
removed plug wires from plugs, bumped starter once and bolt was loose.
Rest of job was fairly easy. I used OEM belt and water pump, as many
in this NG suggest. The belt has three marks that are aligned to crank
and cam sprocket marks. I used a T handle breaker bar in conjunction
with a hammer to tighten crank bolt during assembly. Got every thing
assembled, hit starter, and was a happy camper, car started and no leak
at new water pump gasket. Very productive day, I had to take out a
front axle and replace both CV boots before I started on timimg belt
job. Thanks to folks in this NG, both jobs went better than expected!

On an automatic, you can lock the drive plate by jamming a breaker bar
through the inspection holes into the plate. It is still a bear to get
off, though.

Remco