CV joint clicking part II

[Robin Henderson]

Thanks for all the good advice on replacing my bad CV joint. I have called
the local parts stores and found one for as low as $56.99. I did not ask if
they were factory rebuilt or aftermarket but will. Here is my net two
questions...

I have a Haynes manual and basic mechanical ability. The manual says that
the steering knuckle is pressed onto the axle and will need to be removed by
someone with a special tool. My cousin who is has worked in a transmission
shop says back off the nut on the end of the axle until the threads are
protected and carefully knock it out with a hammer. Do any of you have
experience here and willing to make a recommendation?

I inspected the other CV boot and it is still intact but is starting to show
some cracks. Any ideas on prolonging the life of the boot and should I
bother replacing the boot on a good CV joint or just put two new axles in?

The reason why I am screwing with it is because I am one of the many who
find themselves unemployed right now and have the time but not the money...

Thanks for your help!

Robin

 

[Anthony]

My cousin who is has worked in a transmission
shop says back off the nut on the end of the axle until the threads are
protected and carefully knock it out with a hammer. Do any of you have
experience here and willing to make a recommendation?

I've done things like that, I back it off a turn or 2 then give it a whack
then a couple more turns and hit it again. It you back it off too far on
the first whack you can still damaged the threads. You want as many threads
as possible transferring the impact.

Use a brass hammer if you can lay your hands on one and be prepared to
replace the nut. About half the time the nut is damaged beyond the point
where a socket will go back on.

Tony

 

[someone]

Thanks for all the good advice on replacing my bad CV joint. I have called
the local parts stores and found one for as low as $56.99. I did not ask if
they were factory rebuilt or aftermarket but will. Here is my net two
questions...

I have a Haynes manual and basic mechanical ability. The manual says that
the steering knuckle is pressed onto the axle and will need to be removed by
someone with a special tool. My cousin who is has worked in a transmission
shop says back off the nut on the end of the axle until the threads are
protected and carefully knock it out with a hammer. Do any of you have
experience here and willing to make a recommendation?

I inspected the other CV boot and it is still intact but is starting to show
some cracks. Any ideas on prolonging the life of the boot and should I
bother replacing the boot on a good CV joint or just put two new axles in?

The reason why I am screwing with it is because I am one of the many who
find themselves unemployed right now and have the time but not the money...

Thanks for your help!

Robin

It's been a little while since I've done one (oin my own vehicles, I just
replace the axle, an recommend others do as well) but I think to properly
(no worthless split-boots) replace the outer boot, you have to remove the
inner joint, so replace that boot as well, if you're going that route.
Personally, I don't think boots are worth the extra time it takes to do
them, and I spend the little bit of extra money and go with a lifetime
warrented axle shaft.

 

[S]

Hi Robin!

Do any of you have
experience here and willing to make a recommendation?

Don't get enthusiastic with that hammer, or you'll be replacing the
wheel bearings too; a large gear puller will get it out if it's gonna
come out. If not you will almost certainly be better off to remove the
offending assembly and get a used hub from a junkyard. Do both boots;
no good reason not to once you've gotten that far.
I'm a lazy cuss, and so this is text borrowed from a couple earlier
posts on the subject, hope it's helpful.

**********************************
If all you want to do is replace the boots, you do not need to remove
the axle. Put the front end up on jackstands (as high as possible) and
remove the wheel. Remove the roll pin holding the axle to the stub
shaft on the tranny. Separate the hub from the lower ball joint by
removing the pinch bolt, spreading the socket a bit, and prying with a
large pry-bar. Separate the tie rod end from the hub by loosening the
nut and giving a sharp rap with a hammer. Pull the hub away from the
tranny to separate the axle from the stub shaft. Remove the clamps
from the inner boot, and slide it back from the joint. Using a small
screwdriver, remove the retaining ring from the inside of the outer
housing of the joint, (you'll see what I'm talking about when you get
that far) and slide the shell off of the bearing "spider". Remove the
snap ring holding the spider to the axle shaft, and remove the spider.
You can now replace the boots. Clean everything, and pack in as much
fresh grease as you have patience for. Reassembly is the reverse.
Should you want to pull the axle, before you do any of the above,
relieve the nut staking, and remove the axle nut. Thread lug nuts on a
couple adjacent lugs and use your pry-bar with one end wedged between
the lug nuts and the other end braced against the floor to hold the
axle still, and an appropriate socket (30mm ?) on a large breaker bar
with a piece of pipe for an extension to accomplish this. On older
Soobies there is a split conical washer to provide additional
challenges. Be warned; removal of the axle from the hub/bearings can
be very difficult to nearly impossible if there is significant rust
and/or corrosion present, and you mite find yourself reworking the
whole hub. After you separate the axle from the tranny as per the
procedure above, you will be able to slide the axle inwards and out of
the hub and bearings. Maybe. In all likelihood, you will need to use a
large gear puller. Newer cars have the shaft splines arranged
differently, which allows you to place the puller jaws on the brake
rotor and push the axle without loading the bearings. Older cars will
require that you remove the brake caliper and rotor, and put the jaws
on the hub. This results in side loading the bearings when you attempt
to push. Gentle pressure is acceptable here, but resist the temptation
to exert significant force or hammer on the axle end unless you want
to replace the bearings as well. If gentle persuasion fails, resign
yourself to rebuilding the hub. Disconnect the hub from the bottom of
the strut, and toss the whole assembly up on your workbench to make
life with the puller a little easier. If the hub/axle spline area has
significant rust/corrosion you will probably save yourself a good deal
of effort and frustration by making a trip to your friendly
neighborhood junkyard for a complete assembly; I have seen them
absolutely refuse to come apart due to corrosion, and have mangled
pullers, knuckles, temper, and any chances of passing thru the Pearly
Gates while trying ;-)
********************************

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[Mike Allegretto]

I have done this several times on two Legacys. I assume that it is
the same. It is very easy. I just used a crow bar to pry the
steering knuckle off. The only problem that I had on one, was
getting the axle out of the hub. I pounded with a hammer and it would
not come lose until a heated it it with a torch. The others all came
out easy. The aftermarket axles have not lasted very long. I only
got 25K to 30K miles before the boots ripped again. The axles are
lifetime warranty and once you have done it the job takes only about
30 minutes so I will just keep getting free axles. Mine came with
new nuts. These last ones have actually gone over 30K miles. One is
clicking but the boot is still ok so I am waiting.

Have fun.

 

[Ed Rachner]

You don't mention which model Subaru you have, but consider re-posting and
searching at http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.net/. They have a good write up on
the Loyale series and I suspect the Legacy is not much different. I've done
dozens of axles with the hammer and never damaged a wheel bearing. Also,
it's not necessary to disconnect the steering knuckle (what you don't take
apart, won't be damaged and doesn't need to be put together again later).
Good luck. ---Ed---