clutch pedal not completely popping out

[Yousuf Khan]

Yesterday I noticed that my clutch pedal was not popping out completely.
It seemed like maybe a spring was getting stuck part way, and wouldn't
pop all of the way out. I could get it to pop all of the way out by
putting the back of my foot behind the back of the pedal and pulling on
it. Today that problem went away, so it seems to be a random occurrence.

Now a bit of background on the clutch. I had it replaced earlier this
year, in March. So I took it back to the shop where I had it done, and
the shop suggests that maybe the hydraulics need replacement. He
suggested that the not popping all of the way out was due to humidity
yesterday. What does everyone else think?

Yousuf Khan

 

[Bob Noble]

I don't buy it. The springs, both the one on the pedal and the one on the
clutch fork return the pedal. I think they are plenty strong to overcome any
fluid problems.

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

Yesterday I noticed that my clutch pedal was not popping out completely.
It seemed like maybe a spring was getting stuck part way, and wouldn't
pop all of the way out. I could get it to pop all of the way out by
putting the back of my foot behind the back of the pedal and pulling on
it. Today that problem went away, so it seems to be a random occurrence.

Now a bit of background on the clutch. I had it replaced earlier this
year, in March. So I took it back to the shop where I had it done, and
the shop suggests that maybe the hydraulics need replacement. He
suggested that the not popping all of the way out was due to humidity
yesterday. What does everyone else think?

Yousuf Khan

on two of my Toyotas, a bad slave cylinder has caused this to happen, but
usually (on Toyotas, anyway) the pedal stays on the floor...

 

[Yousuf Khan]

on two of my Toyotas, a bad slave cylinder has caused this to happen, but
usually (on Toyotas, anyway) the pedal stays on the floor...

Yeah, that's what I think too. If it was a fluid problem, then it would
stay completely on the ground.

Also, I don't think if the peddle even if it is partly in, is causing
the clutch to slide as I am not smelling anything burning or hearing any
squealing.

Yousuf Khan

 

[Yousuf Khan]

I don't buy it. The springs, both the one on the pedal and the one on
the clutch fork return the pedal. I think they are plenty strong to
overcome any fluid problems.

So you think maybe one of the springs in the clutch pedal is getting shot?

Yousuf Khan

 

[Mike]

So you think maybe one of the springs in the clutch pedal is getting shot?

        Yousuf Khan

Had the same problem with my '01 Forrester, took it in and found out
there was a TSB and it was fixed under warrenty. It worked fine when
cold but would begin to stick after driving for a while and things
heated up. Don't know if this is related to your problem, but maybe
worth checking out? I found the following from a search...

Clutch Slave Cylinder TSB

NUMBER: 03-52-03R
DATE: 07/15/03

APPLICABILITY:
1995-2002MY Legacy;
1997-2003MY 2.5L Impreza; and
1998-2003MY Forester Vehicles.
All models have Manual Transmission.

 

[Bob Noble]

No, I don't think that can happen and start working ok again, as far as
springs go.
After reading some of the other posts, it might be a messed up slave
cylinder, but I don't think just changing the fluid will help this condition
and a humid day should have nothing to do with the fluid as humidity doesn't
get into the fluid system.
It could also be the same of he master cylinder and thinking more on this I
suppose if you wanted you could change the fluid, but still don't feel it is
necessary and more likely a waste of money. It might just be a thing where
one of the pistons hung up for a bit, maybe because of some scoring.
I think I would put a wait and see on it and see if the problem happens any
more.

Otherwise, since you don't really know what caused it, you'd likely have to
replace the master and slave cylinders to be sure you got it. It doesn't
seem like the type of problem that would just fail and let you down, so
myself, I'd be inclined to watch and see for a bit.

 

[Yousuf Khan]

Had the same problem with my '01 Forrester, took it in and found out
there was a TSB and it was fixed under warrenty. It worked fine when
cold but would begin to stick after driving for a while and things
heated up. Don't know if this is related to your problem, but maybe
worth checking out? I found the following from a search...

Thanks, it sounds the same.

Clutch Slave Cylinder TSB

NUMBER: 03-52-03R
DATE: 07/15/03

APPLICABILITY:
1995-2002MY Legacy;
1997-2003MY 2.5L Impreza; and
1998-2003MY Forester Vehicles.
All models have Manual Transmission.

Would the Outback be included among the Legacy?

Yousuf Khan

 

[S]

Hi Yousuf!

What does everyone else think?

I've never seen this on a hydraulic clutch; usually if something goes
wrong, the clutch pedal goes to the floor, and stays there. I'm trying
to imagine how a sticky TO bearing might cause this, but I can't see
it happening; once it gets the clutch pedal up past the effect of the
"helper" spring, the "return" portion of the pedal spring ought to pop
it on up against the stop.

Check for possibly some of the wiring harness or ??? interfering with
the pedal motion, and spray some WD-40 on the pivot points while
you're under there.

Removing/replacing the pedal cage is a PITA, but might be worthwhile
if the problem becomes persistent.

Keep us posted.

ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[Yousuf Khan]

Check for possibly some of the wiring harness or ??? interfering with
the pedal motion, and spray some WD-40 on the pivot points while
you're under there.

Yeah, that was my next idea. Good ole WD-40.

Yousuf Khan

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

Yeah, that was my next idea. Good ole WD-40.

Yousuf Khan

That stuff sucks. Go over to your local GM dealer (yeah, I know, just hold
yer nose and charge through the door!) and pick up a can or two of Rust
Penetrant and Heat Riser Libricant. It is the one real good thing GM
dealers have, and it runs rings around anything else for lubricating,
freeing stuck bolts and removing rust from nuts and bolts.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

That stuff sucks. Go over to your local GM dealer (yeah, I know, just hold
yer nose and charge through the door!) and pick up a can or two of Rust
Penetrant and Heat Riser Libricant. It is the one real good thing GM
dealers have, and it runs rings around anything else for lubricating,
freeing stuck bolts and removing rust from nuts and bolts.

I wouldn't say WD-40 sucks as a general statement. It primarily is a
solvent (a lubricant is in there, folks speculate it might be a
silicone, probably why the can says shake before use) called Stoddard
Solvent, a 'deodorized' kerosene. It's quite good at flushing gunk out
but it is not a long lasting lube. I suppose following up with some
kinda lithium grease or the Heat Riser lube as mentioned would be a
good idea. Just know the limits of WD-40. I keep some around, but I
never expect it to be a durable lubricant.

 

[bugalugs]

I wouldn't say WD-40 sucks as a general statement. It primarily is a
solvent (a lubricant is in there, folks speculate it might be a
silicone, probably why the can says shake before use) called Stoddard
Solvent, a 'deodorized' kerosene. It's quite good at flushing gunk out
but it is not a long lasting lube. I suppose following up with some
kinda lithium grease or the Heat Riser lube as mentioned would be a
good idea. Just know the limits of WD-40. I keep some around, but I
never expect it to be a durable lubricant.

The WD stands for Water Dispersant which is what it was designed for,
and it does it well. Anything else that it is used for will be a bonus
but there may be other products that will do those other tasks better.

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

The WD stands for Water Dispersant which is what it was designed for,
and it does it well. Anything else that it is used for will be a bonus
but there may be other products that will do those other tasks better.

Yup. It was deeveloped to keep the missles in underground silos from
rusting!

I have actually found that if sprayed as a 'lubricant', it will actually
remove and grease from whatever, and I found this out by 'lubricating' a
hood cable with it.

At least Toyota hood cables are easy to replace...