Check engine light 1998 legacy brighton (need new plugs/wires/distr. rotor and cap?)

[stugross]

Hi Folks,

Thanks in advance for any help with this. Friday I drove my car car to
a train parking lot to leave if for the weekend. When I started it up,
it ran a higher rpm range than I have noticed it doing before but then
backed off. I figured that it must just be some sort of warming up
thing, I live in SF, so I ignored it. Sunday night, when I picked it
up from the lot, it did the high reving thing again, but then also ran
really roughly once it backed down, the check engine light didn't go
off, and it felt really under powered, like it was only running on 3
cylinders (which would fit with the rough running). This morning when
I got into it, it did the same high rpm start, but when it backed down,
it ran smoothly and was not under powered; however, the check engine
light did stay on. I am thinking, possibly, that it needs new plugs,
wires and distributer rotor and cap. Not really sure though.
Thoughts?

Cheers,

Stu

 

[mulder]

Hi Folks,

Thanks in advance for any help with this. Friday I drove my car car to
a train parking lot to leave if for the weekend. When I started it up,
it ran a higher rpm range than I have noticed it doing before but then
backed off. I figured that it must just be some sort of warming up
thing, I live in SF, so I ignored it. Sunday night, when I picked it
up from the lot, it did the high reving thing again, but then also ran
really roughly once it backed down, the check engine light didn't go
off, and it felt really under powered, like it was only running on 3
cylinders (which would fit with the rough running). This morning when
I got into it, it did the same high rpm start, but when it backed down,
it ran smoothly and was not under powered; however, the check engine
light did stay on. I am thinking, possibly, that it needs new plugs,
wires and distributer rotor and cap. Not really sure though.
Thoughts?

Cheers,

Stu

You need to get the code read which will point you toward the source
of the problem, before you go ahead and blindly start replacing parts.
Autozone will scan it for free in most states, they may not do this in
CA but you can try. They might just let you borrow the scanner and do
it yourself. Alternately you can have a local shop pull the code for
you although they will probably charge you for the diagnostic time. If
it does come down to that you might as well buy a cheap code reader
and do it yourself, and then you will have it for the future as well.

 

[Ed P]

Hi Folks,

Thanks in advance for any help with this. Friday I drove my car car to
a train parking lot to leave if for the weekend. When I started it up,
it ran a higher rpm range than I have noticed it doing before but then
backed off. I figured that it must just be some sort of warming up
thing, I live in SF, so I ignored it. Sunday night, when I picked it
up from the lot, it did the high reving thing again, but then also ran
really roughly once it backed down, the check engine light didn't go
off, and it felt really under powered, like it was only running on 3
cylinders (which would fit with the rough running). This morning when
I got into it, it did the same high rpm start, but when it backed down,
it ran smoothly and was not under powered; however, the check engine
light did stay on. I am thinking, possibly, that it needs new plugs,
wires and distributer rotor and cap. Not really sure though.
Thoughts?

Cheers,

Stu

You might want to look for a cracked or broken vacuum hose. Air leaking
in can cause speed idle speed to increase and/or make the engine run
rough. You should also pull the CEL codes per another response.

Ed P

 

[stugross]

Cheers, guys. Guess I will hunt down a code reader. Appreciate it.
-Stu

 

[stugross]

Little follow-up if i may: now the check engine light is not coming on
at all and it is running fine. Two questions: 1) does this fact lead
anyone to any off the top of the head diagnosises? and will a code
reader still give me any information if the check engine light is not
coming on at the time the read is taken?

Cheers,

Stu

 

[Ed P]

Speaking in general (not specifically Subaru) about CEL problems, if the
light is not coming on and the car runs OK, you can probably conclude
that whatever was bothering the commuter cleared up on its own. The
light comes on when conditions meet criteria that the computer is
programmed to view as a problem. If the problem conditions go away, the
light stays OFF, but depending on the nature of the fault, the computer
may retain fault codes in memory -- at least for a period of time or
number of ignition ON/OFF cycles. If it is convenient, and especially
if you can find someone like Autozone to do it for free, get the system
checked for stored codes and post the results here for comment.

As a case in point of my previous suggestion to check for vacuum leaks,
on my '96 Outback it is all too easy when changing the air filter to
dislodge a hose at the back of the housing. Air leaks cause the engine
to idle faster as the computer just puts in more fuel to compensate, but
a vacuum leak may affect some cylinders more than others and thus cause
the engine to run poorly. Thus, in situations such as yours, it never
hurts to look under the hood for loose or cracked hoses.

Ed P

 

[stugross]

Sounds good, Ed. I'll take a look at the hoses and head down to
autozone tonight to borrow the tester. Results to be posted.

Cheers,
Stu