Change other components with timing belt?

D

Dwight Morrow

I have a '97 Legacy wagon with 75K miles. Is there anything else I should
get changed when I get the timing belt changed? Car runs great, though it's
got some rattles here and there.

Thanks, Dwight
'97 Legacy Wagon Brighton
'03 Legacy Sedan GT
 
I have a '97 Legacy wagon with 75K miles. Is there anything else I should
get changed when I get the timing belt changed? Car runs great, though it's
got some rattles here and there.

Thanks, Dwight
'97 Legacy Wagon Brighton
'03 Legacy Sedan GT

Many recommend replacing the water pump: Much of the labor involved
in the belt replacement will be duplicated if the pump goes bad some
time in the near future.
Also, the drive belts (alt, ,a/c, etc.) have to come off anyway, so if
they exhibit any wear or cracks replace them. If the old ones are at
all serviceable, label them and put them in with your spare tire to
use if one of the new ones fails prematurely.
 
I would replace the water pump as well as thermostat. Here is my own
experience: In October 2002, I had the timing belt replaced at 120,000
miles. Water pump was fine and did not leak. In October 2003, I had to have
water pump replaced as the bearing was failing. Mileage was 132,000 miles.
So I got one more year out of the water pump and 12,000 miles but it cost me
about $170.00 in labor. Since I had bought the car used, I should have done
both at the same time as I had no idea how old the water pump was. But from
my experience with Subaru, I think 75,000 miles is probably the limit for
the water pump.

Harold

PS> The mechanic replaced the water pump with an OEM who makes water pumps
for Subaru, I think the name was White but I am not sure. I think what I am
saying is you can order a quality water pump from Subaru's OEM supplier.
 
Dwight said:
I have a '97 Legacy wagon with 75K miles. Is there anything else I should
get changed when I get the timing belt changed?

Hi,

I'd add all the seals on the front of the engine: cam seals, main crank
seal, O-rings on back of oil pump, front oil pump seal. If they're not
already brittle, they're getting that way with the time and miles you've
got, so you'll help prevent leaks in the future.

Rick
 
Many recommend replacing the water pump: Much of the labor involved
in the belt replacement will be duplicated if the pump goes bad some
time in the near future.
Also, the drive belts (alt, ,a/c, etc.) have to come off anyway, so if
they exhibit any wear or cracks replace them. If the old ones are at
all serviceable, label them and put them in with your spare tire to
use if one of the new ones fails prematurely.

Null has the 2nd tier work right. If you want to be *really*
preventative, here's the 3rd tier:

1. Remove oil pump and locktite back plate screws.
You should only have to do this once, not with
each belt change.

2. Replace front crank oil seal.

3. Replace camshaft oil seals.

4. Replace belt tensioner.

Since you'll probably have to drain the coolant
to get this far, it's a good time to change it.

75K miles is a good time to change the plugs too.
 
Jim Stewart said:
Null has the 2nd tier work right. If you want to be *really*
preventative, here's the 3rd tier:

1. Remove oil pump and locktite back plate screws.
You should only have to do this once, not with
each belt change.

2. Replace front crank oil seal.

3. Replace camshaft oil seals.

4. Replace belt tensioner.

Since you'll probably have to drain the coolant
to get this far, it's a good time to change it.

75K miles is a good time to change the plugs too.


try not to pollute while doing all this but
i hear squirrels will eat anything

mk5000


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