Can I drive my car with this problem?

[FreddyPooPoo]

I've recently (about a week or so) started to smell burning rubber
whenever I come to a stop in my 2001 Forester. I think I found the
problem. The shaft that goes to the RF wheel has a black rubber
covering thats ripped and all around it is grease or something that has
sprayed all out. Should I park this until I get it to a mechanic on
Monday?

 

[Michael Pardee]

I've recently (about a week or so) started to smell burning rubber
whenever I come to a stop in my 2001 Forester. I think I found the
problem. The shaft that goes to the RF wheel has a black rubber
covering thats ripped and all around it is grease or something that has
sprayed all out. Should I park this until I get it to a mechanic on
Monday?

You're okay to drive it. That is the boot over the constant velocity joint
(known as a CV joint boot). There are two on each side of the front, one
inner and one outer. Normally the outer boots fail first because they flex
so much in steering. It is a very common failure, as they have a life
expectancy of 5-10 years... hot climates are worse.

You will want to avoid splashing through puddles or stirring up a lot of
dust, but on ordinary roads you're fine. The remaining grease is effective
until it is contaminated with dirt or water. If the grease gets contaminated
and the joint wears it isn't the end of the world, it just decides how the
failure is repaired.

There are two ways to repair it. It is possible to replace the boot itself
if the joint is okay, but most often the whole drive axle is replaced - it
is usually more cost effective. The old one is rebuilt for resale. A typical
aftermarket price for a drive axle over-the-counter is around $100 US, and
the labor usually adds another $200 or so. Labor costs vary rather widely.
It is desirable to replace both sides at the same time if you can afford it,
since the other side is as old and has been subjected to the same conditions
(unless the exhaust is near the bad one). However, there is really no cost
saving to doing both together, just convenience.

Mike

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

You're okay to drive it. That is the boot over the constant velocity joint
(known as a CV joint boot). There are two on each side of the front, one
inner and one outer. Normally the outer boots fail first because they flex
so much in steering. It is a very common failure, as they have a life
expectancy of 5-10 years... hot climates are worse.

You will want to avoid splashing through puddles or stirring up a lot of
dust, but on ordinary roads you're fine. The remaining grease is effective
until it is contaminated with dirt or water. If the grease gets contaminated
and the joint wears it isn't the end of the world, it just decides how the
failure is repaired.

There are two ways to repair it. It is possible to replace the boot itself
if the joint is okay, but most often the whole drive axle is replaced - it
is usually more cost effective. The old one is rebuilt for resale. A typical
aftermarket price for a drive axle over-the-counter is around $100 US, and
the labor usually adds another $200 or so. Labor costs vary rather widely.
It is desirable to replace both sides at the same time if you can afford it,
since the other side is as old and has been subjected to the same conditions
(unless the exhaust is near the bad one). However, there is really no cost
saving to doing both together, just convenience.

Mike

excellent post!
yeah, even if the grease gets washed out and the joint begins clicking
when you turn, you probably would have weeks before it actually failed.
Start shopping and saving your money - but there's no rush.

Carl

 

[Bradley Walker]

Thanks for this post because it's directly affecting mine and my mom's
Subaru's. Her's is a `95 Legacy L wagon while mine is a `01 Outback Limited
Wagon. She was told last time at the dealership that it was of high
importance to replace the CV boots because they were starting to seep and
leak, but were no cracking or shredded as this posters was. When I had my
oil changed the dealership also told me that mine were in the same condition
with small seepage and leakage in that I needed to get them replaced for a
cost of around $250.

I didn't realize what a CV boot was or how the vehicle would be affected
without it. Thanks for this very insightful information.

Brad

 

[AS]

The right hand side inner (closer to the transmission) boots fail
unnecessarily often on this vehicles, due to the location of the exhaust
components and lack of proper ventilation. Poor design, no excuses,
just as the noisy lifters, etc. etc.

In my wifes 03 (60K miles) and my friend's 01 (72k miles) the same boot
failed.

My 94 Nissan Maxima had a wind deflector to route air to the inner boot
that was close to the exhaust pipe. It never failed as long as i had
the car.

 

[Edward Hayes]

If you repair before joint damage is done you can buy a boot kit and
lube kit from Subaru for 25 dollars? and do it yourself if you are
able. If you must take it to dealer shop then the labor to remove &
replace axle suggest to get a rebuilt unit. Be very careful about
"rebuilt" as many have had problems after short mileage. Maybe someone
will chime in on where to purchase good replacements. Last time I
checked my Suby dealer wanted ~$185 for a factory "remanufactured"
unit and this is what I would get. JMO

 

[AS]

A nice online Subaru dealer: www.1stsubaruparts.com. They are in
Washington State.

 

[FreddyPooPoo]

Thank you all for the input. I am bringing it to a mechanic on Tuesday.
He will clean up and inspect the axle and joint to see if its good. If
its ok, he'll replace the boot. If its not, he'll do the axle too.