brake changing tip for 01 Outback wagon

T

Todd H.

Just did the rear pads on my 01 Outback at 65k miles. They're cute
little pads back there in contrast the beefier ones I changed out in
the front around 58k. This car must be heavy because my original
front pads on my Mazda 626 lasted till 90k, and I didn't have to
change the rears until 120k!

The job was very easy, 5 lugnuts, a caliper bolt, compress the piston,
clean up the shims, clean some dust out the hardware, pop on the shims
on the new pads, slap em in, close the caliper, replace the bolt,
remount the tire and wee! Didn't bother bleeding as the 60k service I
had Subaru do included that that, so everything in there was fresh,
and they were kind enough to leave enough space in the reservoir that
I didn't evn have any siphoning to do when compressing the little
pistons on the rear.

The tip I wanna share though is about the aftermarket pads I got at
Autozone. These things all looked the same shape, size, outline, but
there WERE inner and outer pads. I found (later of course) that you
could install two outer pads on one wheel just fine. But then you
were screwed on the other wheel because the inner pads have two raised
bumps that prevent the caliper from completely closing if installed on
the outer side. So, I got to change one wheel twice. :)

So, look for those bumps on the top of the new pads and stick those
babies on the inner side.

Best Regards,
 
One additional thing I always do Todd is to sand the rotors with a sanding
disk in an electric drill to remove any rust and glaze from the rotor. This
helps the new pads seat and helps eliminate any chance of squealing. ed
 
Edward Hayes said:
One additional thing I always do Todd is to sand the rotors with a sanding
disk in an electric drill to remove any rust and glaze from the rotor. This
helps the new pads seat and helps eliminate any chance of
squealing. ed

I'll keep it in mind for next time...nifty. What grit do you use?
 
Any grit that will give me a swirl pattern. Probably a 60 grit or there
about. Most any rough enough to scuff the surface good.
 
Shame on you, ALWAYS loosen the bleed screw when you compress the piston.
This prevents the nastiest most overheated fluid from being forced upstream
where it remains.
Also it prevents damage to the anti-lock system in some vehicles...never
bothered to check into Subaru's because I would never consider doing this.
Also don't forget grease in all the proper places. TG
 
TG said:
Shame on you, ALWAYS loosen the bleed screw when you compress the
piston. This prevents the nastiest most overheated fluid from being
forced upstream where it remains.

Hee hee--I knew i'd take heat for this, but let's say it was a
calculated risk.

When you loosed the bleed screw though, aren't there then things you
have to do to ensure you don't get air in the system?
Also it prevents damage to the anti-lock system in some
vehicles...never bothered to check into Subaru's because I would
never consider doing this. Also don't forget grease in all the
proper places. TG

As in grease fittings with a grease gun?

Best Regards,
 
I wouldn't call it "taking heat" just trying to help you out a bit. You can
attach a short piece of hose with a one-way valve ...NAPA sells them as a
one man brake bleeder for about $7 but as long as you tighten the bleed
valve right away and nothing causes the piston to move out or fluid to be
sucked in (gravity, pumping the brake pedal) no air can enter. TG
 

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