Anyone get a GTP letter from subaru?

B

Bryan Lee

I just got a letter Subaru talking about their GTP( guaranteed trade-in
price) If I get a 2006 Subaru by feb 28,2006 they will give me a min of
$15,750 sight unseen for my '04 WRX Wagon as long as it's at or under 24k
mi. I call a dealer and asked about my car, because I have 25k miles and he
said that they would just take off $.15 a mile over 25. They will also give
you more if they feel your car is worth more. Plus $500 for Subarubucks,
L.L. Bean, or toward your first loan or least payment. I only owe about
$14k and I'm think about Leasing a '06 STI. If they have the right price I
will get this then, I can get the EVO X or the New STI that will be out
about '07. When my lease is up then they will have better price on thoose
cars and I will junp to one of them. Anyone try to use this yet?
 
I got the same thing and thought about it until I saw the mileage
limit. I have 60k in two years.
 
Bryan Lee said:
I just got a letter Subaru talking about their GTP( guaranteed trade-in
price) If I get a 2006 Subaru by feb 28,2006 they will give me a min of
$15,750 sight unseen for my '04 WRX Wagon as long as it's at or under 24k
mi. I call a dealer and asked about my car, because I have 25k miles and he
said that they would just take off $.15 a mile over 25. They will also give
you more if they feel your car is worth more. Plus $500 for Subarubucks,
L.L. Bean, or toward your first loan or least payment. I only owe about
$14k and I'm think about Leasing a '06 STI. If they have the right price I
will get this then, I can get the EVO X or the New STI that will be out
about '07. When my lease is up then they will have better price on thoose
cars and I will junp to one of them. Anyone try to use this yet?

Why do you want to be perpetually in debt? I pay cash for mine and run
the wheels off of them. I have an '03 Outback and a '91 Jeep. I have no
idea when the Jeep will die.

Al
 
Well, I have a 1964 Pontiac Grand Prix with 389 and Tri-power(3 X 2bbl
carbs) that I'm restoring.I built the motor(custom cam, MSD, roller
rockers, custom sway bar F&R, all -new supension($5000), disc brakes,
balanced, etc) and a 1956 Ford F-100 Pick up with a Chevy 327 I built to
shift at 7000 rpm, gear drive, dart heads, '69 GTO rear end, etc. I have
had the truck since I was 16yrs(I'm 34 now) and I'm going to get back to
finish soon. Theese cars, I have I feel are the one you put money into to
keep running over time. I have a 2 1/2 car garage at my house and the ford
and pontiac are in there and they don't even run and my '04 WRX and my wifes
'05 Buick Terazza sit outside(and her '03 mazda MPV before that.) I feel
now that new cars for just for fun and to get rid of when something else
catches your eye. New thing aways come out and say I would like that and if
you lease you will never be upside down, never have to pay to get it fixed
and then move to the next one in 3 yrs. I love cars and driving and want to
try them all. As good as my WRX is, What is it going to be in 10yrs? I
don't need the cars I just want them . So I have no pressure I can afford
them and my wife always says it's your car get what you want so, that's why.
 
We probably all got the letter. I always think that convenience for us
means more profit to the dealer. Otherwise why is he always pestering
me with warranty offers and letters such as this.

I believe in separating the deal, i.e get the best price I can on the
car and do any financing, trade in, etc. external to the deal. I'm
also one of those that pays cash and keeps the car forever.
 
John said:
Must be nice, some of us don't have the luxury

Leasing can be GOOD......
leasing can be BAD.......
Depends on what you want to do at the end of the lease. If you walk away
from it, the money spent is a total loss.
The GOOD part is when the car turns out to be a piece of shit, you are rid
of it without paying all the money for it.
The GOOD part is when you lease it for 36 months and make your payments
"heavy". If you operate a home based company
you simply "write off" the heavy payments.I have done this a few times.I put
next to nothing down on it, make my payments close to $400 a month and write
it off. The residual on my 2002 Fully loaded Ford Explorer with less than
30,000 miles on it was $11,500.Where can you buy a fully loaded,like new SUV
for $11,500???
BE CAREFUL on buyouts! You ***MUST*** get ready to buy it out BEFORE the
lease runs out! If you do want to buy it off, arrange with a lender about 2
months before it ends (or pay cash).If the lease terminates the Lease holder
can (and will) want to charge you the "CURRENT VALUE" on the vehicle or
demand it back!!! At the 2 month time YOU are still in control and have the
right to buy it off for the "buy out" amount.
The BAD part of a lease......
Break down the costs involved, if you can not write it off a lease is not
for you.Be aware! DO NOT lease a car that is a known piece of shit.
Cars that do not hold their value well, WILL put you "upside down". You will
pay more than it's worth in the end or be forced to walk away from it in the
end.
You can turn that in your favor if you are careful. DO THE MATH before you
even step foot in the place.
Example 1... You lease a piece of shit Kia. You put close to nothing down on
it.The lease is $199 a month.You lease it for 3 years. You are allowed
12,000 miles a year.
For the 36,000 miles you are allowed you have a full warrenty.In 3 years you
will shell out around $7200. At this time you can walk or buy it.You might
want to walk.
Example 2... You lease a nice car, put a few thousand down on it. You get a
payment schedule thats comfortable for you. YOU WRITE IT OFF for 3 years. In
36 months you still like the car you buy it out for way under the market
value.The lower amount you will pay off is NOT a write off.
Leasing is NOT for everyone. Buying a car that is a lease return is a
crapshoot, why did they walk away from it? Some want a *NEW* car every 3
years, some HATE the car and want to dump it.
Restrictions on lease vehicles.....
You cant/wont do ANY modifications to "leased" vehicles period.NO engine
mods,No exhaust system mods,No body mods,No painting it. You do not own it,
its not yours (yet).At the time you turn it in they will check
EVERYTHING.Every scratch,ding,nick,tear,glass,carpeting, tire wear and of
course miles.It MUST be exactly like you got it(except for miles and normal
wear).
Insurance claims can be a real *BITCH* on leased cars. God help you if it's
totalled. Your insurance company and the lease holder will NEVER agree on
the amount on the value of the dead car and the lease holder will come after
*YOU* for the differance.
Some companies will demand you have THEM service the vehicle. You WILL bring
it to them for oil changes, for ANY service and if its not agreed upon in
writing that THEY pay for it..you will! OH YEAH.
Give that lease a lot of thought, the cards are stacked against you.
 
Mortimer Schnurd said:
God help you if it's totalled. Your insurance company and the lease
holder will NEVER agree on the amount on the value of the dead car and
the lease holder will come after *YOU* for the differance.

FWIW, I don't know if it's ever a good idea or what it's called, but it
is possible to buy insurance that covers the difference.

-- Mark
 
Yes, it's called "gap insurance."

Mark T.B. Carroll said:
FWIW, I don't know if it's ever a good idea or what it's called, but it
is possible to buy insurance that covers the difference.

-- Mark
 
back in 1990 i paid cash for new honda civic and sold it with profit
after 12 months :)
 
Those old Pontiac heads didn't breath too well.

Bryan Lee said:
Well, I have a 1964 Pontiac Grand Prix with 389 and Tri-power(3 X 2bbl
carbs) that I'm restoring.I built the motor(custom cam, MSD, roller
rockers, custom sway bar F&R, all -new supension($5000), disc brakes,
balanced, etc) and a 1956 Ford F-100 Pick up with a Chevy 327 I built to
shift at 7000 rpm, gear drive, dart heads, '69 GTO rear end, etc. I have
had the truck since I was 16yrs(I'm 34 now) and I'm going to get back to
finish soon. Theese cars, I have I feel are the one you put money into to
keep running over time. I have a 2 1/2 car garage at my house and the
ford and pontiac are in there and they don't even run and my '04 WRX and
my wifes '05 Buick Terazza sit outside(and her '03 mazda MPV before that.)
I feel now that new cars for just for fun and to get rid of when something
else catches your eye. New thing aways come out and say I would like that
and if you lease you will never be upside down, never have to pay to get
it fixed and then move to the next one in 3 yrs. I love cars and driving
and want to try them all. As good as my WRX is, What is it going to be in
10yrs? I don't need the cars I just want them . So I have no pressure I
can afford them and my wife always says it's your car get what you want
so, that's why.
 
Al said:
Why do you want to be perpetually in debt? I pay cash for mine and run
the wheels off of them. I have an '03 Outback and a '91 Jeep. I have no
idea when the Jeep will die.

What he said. I have 117,000 miles on mine
and it's just starting to get real comfortable.
 
Hal said:
Yes, it's called "gap insurance."

And just to show you how much Mortimer who knows all about leasing
really does know, just about all leases come with built in "gap
insurance." It of course is more to protect the banks than the
consumer.
 
Mortimer said:
Leasing can be GOOD......
leasing can be BAD.......

That is true. But not for the reasons this poster says. If you put
substantially less miles on a car than the lease calls for you should
buy. As the car will depreciate less and why give that benefit to a
dealer. If you drive substantially more miles than the lease calls for
you should buy. At anywhere from .15 to .30 cents an extra mile it can
get very expensive. If you figure on keeping your car at least seven
years you should buy. Other wise leasing makes better financial sense.
Depends on what you want to do at the end of the lease. If you walk away
from it, the money spent is a total loss.

That is just stupid. If you are paying 400 a month for 36 months on a
$32,000 (about the right numbers) car and did not put anything down,
you paid 14,400. You don't think that your $32,000 car depreciated by
more than $14,400. Not to mention you paid the whole sales tax when you
bought and only paid tax on 14,400 when you leased. You had the use of
the car for three years and now you get to walk away before the tires,
battery, muffler, etc., walk away.

The GOOD part is when the car turns out to be a piece of shit, you are rid
of it without paying all the money for it.

Well, that is obvious.
The GOOD part is when you lease it for 36 months and make your payments
"heavy". If you operate a home based company
you simply "write off" the heavy payments.I have done this a few times.I put
next to nothing down on it, make my payments close to $400 a month and write
it off. The residual on my 2002 Fully loaded Ford Explorer with less than
30,000 miles on it was $11,500.Where can you buy a fully loaded,like new SUV
for $11,500???

Unless the car has very low mileage or you need it for your wife or kid
it really makes no sense to buy it. The way residual value works you
will be paying more than market and if you finance the residual, you
probably could get a brand new lease for the same payment. The only
difference is that you now own a high mileage six or seven year old car
that is probably going to need some serious repair bucks soon.

BE CAREFUL on buyouts! You ***MUST*** get ready to buy it out BEFORE the
lease runs out! If you do want to buy it off, arrange with a lender about 2
months before it ends (or pay cash).

Most people can arrange a car loan in a day.

If the lease terminates the Lease holder
can (and will) want to charge you the "CURRENT VALUE" on the vehicle or
Demand it back!

On just about every lease the lessor will extend your lease on a
monthly basis as long as you want. Why would he not? You are now paying
the same 400 a month on a three year old car.


At the 2 month time YOU are still in control and have the
right to buy it off for the "buy out" amount.

You can buy it for the residual right up until the end of the lease.
The BAD part of a lease......
Break down the costs involved, if you can not write it off a lease is not
for you.

Just about any financial advisor including Consumer Reports recommends
leasing given the caveats mentioned above.

Be aware! DO NOT lease a car that is a known piece of shit.
Cars that do not hold their value well, WILL put you "upside down".

It is impossible to be upside down in a lease and why would anyone sane
buy or lease a "known piece of shit"?

You will
pay more than it's worth in the end or be forced to walk away from it in the
end.

Considering you are paying about 40% of the car's price when you lease,
how can you be forced to pay more than its worth?
You can turn that in your favor if you are careful. DO THE MATH before you
even step foot in the place.

Good advice whether you lease or buy or intend to negotiate anything.
Example 1... You lease a piece of shit Kia. You put close to nothing down on
it.The lease is $199 a month.You lease it for 3 years. You are allowed
12,000 miles a year.
For the 36,000 miles you are allowed you have a full warrenty.In 3 years you
will shell out around $7200. At this time you can walk or buy it.You might
want to walk.

Does any of this have a point?
Example 2... You lease a nice car, put a few thousand down on it. You get a
payment schedule thats comfortable for you. YOU WRITE IT OFF for 3 years. In
36 months you still like the car you buy it out for way under the market
value.

Never put down anything on a lease. Take the higher payments. If you
cannot afford the payment the car is too expensive for you. You don't
put down money because there is no reason to have the lessor have the
use of that money instead of you.


Insurance claims can be a real *BITCH* on leased cars.

This of course is not true. What difference does it make to the
insurance co. if the bank owns it or the leasing company. You do not
have a clue.


God help you if it's
totalled. Your insurance company and the lease holder will NEVER agree on
the amount on the value of the dead car and the lease holder will come after
*YOU* for the differance.

Gap insurance is provided free on every lease I have heard of in the
last 20 years.
Some companies will demand you have THEM service the vehicle.

No, they won't. You made this up.

You WILL bring
it to them for oil changes, for ANY service and if its not agreed upon in
writing that THEY pay for it..you will! OH YEAH.

What the hell are you talking about?
Give that lease a lot of thought, the cards are stacked against you.

No, they aren't. As I said, given the caveats in my first graph almost
every financial advisor recommends leasing. You of course are talking
right out of your ass.
 
Yes the '64 pontiac heads(my motor was rated at 303hp and 435 tq) don't flow
as will as the 65+ heads. But, I boutght a '64 tri-power setup a few years
ago and wont fit 65+ heads. I will take the 3 carb cool factor over more
hp. Before I pulled the motor that was stock the car would chirp it's tires
when it would shift the rebuilt roto-hydramatic(4 spd auto with lock-up).
So with the new mods it sould really be fun. Anyway, thank you everyone for
your input. Well I was able to find one of the last new 2005 5sp manual
Legacy GT limited wagon for $25k(it's night and day in the way it pulls
between auto and manual and I love manuals ). '05 can't be leased and I
will pay only about $30 month more for a 60 month buy over a 48 month lease
on a '06. Plus I can do whatever I want to the car and not worry about
returning it.
 

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