'99 OB - Clutch Pedal Doesn't Return

[Peter Hays]

I have a 99 OB Wagon, Manual TX, 100K miles, Green. Over the last few months I have developed a problem with the clutch and clutch pedal. The clutch linkage is hydraullic (not cable).

1. After maybe an hour of normal operation, the clutch pedal develops a reluctance to return to the un-depressed (engaged) position. At first it 'pops' back to the un-depressed position, but eventually it only returns to a position 1 or 2 inches from the full-travel (desengaged) position. The clutch does appear to operate ovr this short stroke. I can pop the pedal back up with my foot, but the initial 6" of stroke no longer feels the same as when cold.

2. If I continue to operate the car, it reaches a point where I can not fully disengage the clutch even when the pedal is at full travel. First can be rough. Reverse can be painful. Eventually, I must resort to killing the engine, finding reverse, and starting up again.

3. The vehicle never behaves this way cold, and the conditoin has never gone away once it has started.

The '98 manual suggests checking the clutch plate, but I doubt the clutch mechanism itself would be so temperature dependent (1 hour warm up). I suspect the hydraullic linkage, particularly because my abilty to fully disengage the clutch deteriorates over time.

Anyone have any advice or a similar experience? Any problems with the hydraullic linkage?

Thanks.

 

[Edward Hayes]

I would first flush the clutches hydraulic fluid and not just bleed. You may
have picked up some water or air in the fluid. Eddie

I have a 99 OB Wagon, Manual TX, 100K miles, Green. Over the last few

months I have developed a problem with the clutch and clutch pedal. The
clutch linkage is hydraullic (not cable).

1. After maybe an hour of normal operation, the clutch pedal develops a

reluctance to return to the un-depressed (engaged) position. At first it
'pops' back to the un-depressed position, but eventually it only returns to
a position 1 or 2 inches from the full-travel (desengaged) position. The
clutch does appear to operate ovr this short stroke. I can pop the pedal
back up with my foot, but the initial 6" of stroke no longer feels the same
as when cold.

2. If I continue to operate the car, it reaches a point where I can not

fully disengage the clutch even when the pedal is at full travel. First can
be rough. Reverse can be painful. Eventually, I must resort to killing the
engine, finding reverse, and starting up again.

3. The vehicle never behaves this way cold, and the conditoin has never gone away once it has started.

The '98 manual suggests checking the clutch plate, but I doubt the clutch

mechanism itself would be so temperature dependent (1 hour warm up). I
suspect the hydraullic linkage, particularly because my abilty to fully
disengage the clutch deteriorates over time.

 

[snowone]

It's most likely the slave cylinder... bleeding will help temporariliy, but
is fixed best by replacing slave, master, and line.

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=2041

114130151- gasket(you need 2 of them)
30620AA042- cylinder
37251AC001- hose

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=397751

I have a 99 OB Wagon, Manual TX, 100K miles, Green. Over the last few

months I have developed a problem with the clutch and clutch pedal. The
clutch linkage is hydraullic (not cable).

1. After maybe an hour of normal operation, the clutch pedal develops a

reluctance to return to the un-depressed (engaged) position. At first it
'pops' back to the un-depressed position, but eventually it only returns to
a position 1 or 2 inches from the full-travel (desengaged) position. The
clutch does appear to operate ovr this short stroke. I can pop the pedal
back up with my foot, but the initial 6" of stroke no longer feels the same
as when cold.

2. If I continue to operate the car, it reaches a point where I can not

fully disengage the clutch even when the pedal is at full travel. First can
be rough. Reverse can be painful. Eventually, I must resort to killing the
engine, finding reverse, and starting up again.

3. The vehicle never behaves this way cold, and the conditoin has never gone away once it has started.

The '98 manual suggests checking the clutch plate, but I doubt the clutch

mechanism itself would be so temperature dependent (1 hour warm up). I
suspect the hydraullic linkage, particularly because my abilty to fully
disengage the clutch deteriorates over time.