97 Subaru Troublecode P0325 (Knock Sensor 1)-What to Do

[kaplan3jiim]

The check engine light came on today in my 97 Subuaru (2.2L) engine
and according to Autozone printout...

"Troublecode OBDII (Alpha) P Code

The PCM has determined that a malfunction exists in the electrical
circuit for knock sensor 1. (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)( Bank 1
identifies the location of cylinder #1, While bank 2 identifies the
cylinders on the opposite bank)."

The mechanic who moonlights in Auto Zone's parts dept says there may
be a wire shorting out and that the sensors(s) can be found somewhere
on the block. He described it as round and a couple inches in
diameter (generic knock sensor, since he said he didn't much work on
Soobies)

Where might I find this sensor, what does it look like and on which
side, facing the engine from the front is cylinder #1?

If no loose wire externally, should I replace the part, or ignore the
message (I hear no knocking)? (OF course then if something else
triggers the light I won't know about it)

I'm really not a mechanic of any great inclination, but would
appreciate at least the help to try and see if what the mechanic said
might be the problem is the problem.

Also...can this code ever be triggered by something else?

TUVMIA

Jim

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

The check engine light came on today in my 97 Subuaru (2.2L) engine
and according to Autozone printout...

"Troublecode OBDII (Alpha) P Code

The PCM has determined that a malfunction exists in the electrical
circuit for knock sensor 1. (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)( Bank 1
identifies the location of cylinder #1, While bank 2 identifies the
cylinders on the opposite bank)."

The mechanic who moonlights in Auto Zone's parts dept says there may
be a wire shorting out and that the sensors(s) can be found somewhere
on the block. He described it as round and a couple inches in
diameter (generic knock sensor, since he said he didn't much work on
Soobies)

Where might I find this sensor, what does it look like and on which
side, facing the engine from the front is cylinder #1?

If no loose wire externally, should I replace the part, or ignore the
message (I hear no knocking)? (OF course then if something else
triggers the light I won't know about it)

I'm really not a mechanic of any great inclination, but would
appreciate at least the help to try and see if what the mechanic said
might be the problem is the problem.

Also...can this code ever be triggered by something else?

TUVMIA

Jim

Clear the code and see if it comes back immediately. If it doesn't, you
may have had some bad gas or some carbon buildup in the cylinders or
something. It is not uncommon to need to replace the knock sensor
however. It MAY be worthwhile to use a bottle of Techron in the tank or
do a Sea Foam treatment.

hard to say unless it is a 'hard' recurring failure.

(if AZ did not clear the code, try disconnecting the neg. batt. cable,
step on the brake pedal, wait 20-30 minutes, reconn. batt. )

a GOOD independent mechanic can easily change a soobs knock sensor if it
appears to be bad.


Carl

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

Clear the code and see if it comes back immediately. If it doesn't, you
may have had some bad gas or some carbon buildup in the cylinders or
something. It is not uncommon to need to replace the knock sensor
however. It MAY be worthwhile to use a bottle of Techron in the tank or
do a Sea Foam treatment.

hard to say unless it is a 'hard' recurring failure.

(if AZ did not clear the code, try disconnecting the neg. batt. cable,
step on the brake pedal, wait 20-30 minutes, reconn. batt. )

a GOOD independent mechanic can easily change a soobs knock sensor if it
appears to be bad.


Carl

also - read this;
http://www.ultimatesubaru.net/forum/showthread.php?t=62310


Carl

 

[kaplan3jiim]

also - read this;
http://www.ultimatesubaru.net/forum/showthread.php?t=62310


Carl

They did clear the code. Will see if it returns and act accordingly.
TUVM.

 

[S]

Hi Jim!

Where might I find this sensor, what does it look like and on which
side, facing the engine from the front is cylinder #1?

Fairly common to have one fail. Easy to replace, but the part is kinda
pricy.
It's round, black, about 1 1/4 inch in diameter X 1 inch tall,
retained by one 8mm (??? . . . 12mm head) bolt thru the center. Find
it on top of the block, toward the back, just to the left (drivers
side) and below the throttle body. '97s still had a wiring pigtail, I
think; newer models have a connector right on the sensor. You'll
probably have to push/pull/otherwise move assorted hoses and cables to
get to it.
To replace, find where the pigtail connects into the vehicle harness
and unplug the old one (this can be the hardest part; try using a
small screwdriver or ice pick to release the lock). Use a 12mm socket
with appropriate extension to remove the bolt and lift everything out.
Put the bolt thru the new sensor and carefully thread it back into the
tapped hole. Tighten securely; 15-20ftlb I'd guess, re-route the
wires, and plug it in.

ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[kaplan3jiim]

Hi Jim!



Fairly common to have one fail. Easy to replace, but the part is kinda
pricy.
It's round, black, about 1 1/4 inch in diameter X 1 inch tall,
retained by one 8mm (??? . . . 12mm head) bolt thru the center. Find
it on top of the block, toward the back, just to the left (drivers
side) and below the throttle body. '97s still had a wiring pigtail, I
think; newer models have a connector right on the sensor. You'll
probably have to push/pull/otherwise move assorted hoses and cables to
get to it.
To replace, find where the pigtail connects into the vehicle harness
and unplug the old one (this can be the hardest part; try using a
small screwdriver or ice pick to release the lock). Use a 12mm socket
with appropriate extension to remove the bolt and lift everything out.
Put the bolt thru the new sensor and carefully thread it back into the
tapped hole. Tighten securely; 15-20ftlb I'd guess, re-route the
wires, and plug it in.

ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

Thanks for the detail. Interestingly enougt, the code was cleared and
did not recur until, as iit was triggered last time I was in stop and
go expressway traffic.

Jim

 

[kaplan3jiim]

Thanks for the detail. Interestingly enougt, the code was cleared and
did not recur until, as iit was triggered last time I was in stop and
go expressway traffic.

Jim

And this time it cleared itself overnight.

 

[Svein O]

Hi Jim!
I have replaced the knocksensor on both of my cars, 90 and 99 mod. Both came
up with troublecode indicated knocksensor failure. After replacing and
resetting OBD everything was back to normal.
Read this for details:
http://www.car-stuff.com/subaruknocksensor.htm
http://www.geocities.com/subman2001nz/
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/mod.html#engine
http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/
http://www.obdii.com/

Svein Olav
Norway

The check engine light came on today in my 97 Subuaru (2.2L) engine and

according to Autozone > printout... "Troublecode OBDII (Alpha) P Code

 

[kaplan3jiim]

Hi Jim!
I have replaced the knocksensor on both of my cars, 90 and 99 mod. Both came
up with troublecode indicated knocksensor failure. After replacing and
resetting OBD everything was back to normal.
Read this for details:
http://www.car-stuff.com/subaruknocksensor.htm
http://www.geocities.com/subman2001nz/
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/mod.html#engine
http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/
http://www.obdii.com/

Svein Olav
Norway


according to Autozone > printout... "Troublecode OBDII (Alpha) P Code

The check engine light came on again, went off after an engine
restart, came on again at another restart. Suggests that what the
original Auto Zone guy and Subaru service guy told me might be wrong -
corrosion or frayed wiring - could very well be the case. The Sooby
Service guy said, I thought, it was down near the oil pan.

Will try and find it and take a look.