97 outback wagon w/ electrical problem/engine stalling- adviceneeded!

L

leftoverair

hello good people-

after 30mi of highway driving the gages ceased to work, followed by
the engine hesitating/bucking then stalling. 20mins later she started
up & i made it home. the next day this happened three other times
while only driving several miles.

here's the low down:
-old battery was tested at 12v during idle w/ no load. (haven't tested
new battery)
-alternator tested at 15v at local auto parts store.
-fusible link is still flexible. (not sure what reading i should be
getting with volt meter)

aside from checking/cleaning ground wire on the engine, i'm not sure
what else to do.

i would really appreciate input from the gurus out there.

thanks!
 
leftoverair said:
hello good people-

after 30mi of highway driving the gages ceased to work, followed by
the engine hesitating/bucking then stalling. 20mins later she started
up & i made it home. the next day this happened three other times
while only driving several miles.

here's the low down:
-old battery was tested at 12v during idle w/ no load. (haven't tested
new battery)
-alternator tested at 15v at local auto parts store.
-fusible link is still flexible. (not sure what reading i should be
getting with volt meter)

aside from checking/cleaning ground wire on the engine, i'm not sure
what else to do.

i would really appreciate input from the gurus out there.

thanks!

Battery should test at least 14 volts at idle. If you read 12V at idle,
your alternator is shot, despite it testing good at the local parts store.

My alternator failed in August, the first replacement was bad, too.
The 2nd replacement was ok. Both the original and the 1st replacement
tested just fine at the local Auto Zone, and the guy followed the test
procedure precisely.

When the system voltage drops below 11.5 volts, everything starts
acting weird, starting with the instrument cluster & radio. The best
thing to is to shut off everything electrical, including the headlights
if possible, and limp home fast as possible. With a strong enough
battery, there's enough reserve to restart a warm engine after a short
recovery period.

Clean the battery posts and cables, making sure to check for crap
under the plastic shields. The ends are easily replaceable if they're
badly corroded. Also check the B+ connection on the back of the
alternator for a good connection.

If, after cleaning, the voltage measured at idle at the battery is still
less than 14V, replace the alternator.

Bob
 
leftoverair said:
after 30mi of highway driving the gages ceased to work, followed by
the engine hesitating/bucking then stalling. 20mins later she started
up & i made it home. the next day this happened three other times
while only driving several miles.

Similar things happened to my 1997 Outback in the Spring of 2000, on I-5 in
Northern California. The first time it happened I didn't notice the gauge
misbehavior, though I'm sure it must have occurred. What I noticed was that
the radio stopped working. I'm sure that soon thereafter I glanced at the
speedometer, something I normally do very frequently, so by the time I
looked, it must have been working. A half hour later with the radio turned
off I noticed that despite the fact that I was more or less keeping up with
the speeding I-5 traffic my speedometer read 0 km/h when I glanced at it.
The tachometer read 0 also. The engine was running as I could accelerate,
and hear the engine. Then the speedometer came back up to 120 km/ or so. The
car ran nicely for another hour or two. Then, the third time it misbehaved,
the engine quit running and fortunately I was in the slow lane and was able
to get the car off the road to the right. I couldn't get the car started and
AAA hauled it in to a Subaru dealer. They mis-diagnosed the problem as just
a failed battery. The battery had indeed failed. The alternator had taken it
out, likely by having one of its diodes short out. They replaced the
battery. I specifically asked about the alternator and was told it was fine.
They were wrong about that.
here's the low down:
-old battery was tested at 12v during idle w/ no load.

Before or after this misbehavior?
(haven't tested
new battery)
-alternator tested at 15v at local auto parts store.

When it was working correctly, yes. And when it next misbehaves?
-fusible link is still flexible. (not sure what reading i should be
getting with volt meter)

aside from checking/cleaning ground wire on the engine, i'm not sure
what else to do.

Replace that alternator before it takes out your new battery (if it hasn't
already damaged it).

The day after the battery was replaced in Chico, California, the same
misbehavior occurred on US 395 in the middle of nowhere (but fortunately not
somewhere in the backcountry where we had been earlier that morning). I was
able to nurse the car a mile or two further south into a small town where,
with the engine left running, I checked with the US Forest Service rabger
station to see if they could recommend a competent local mechanic. They did
so (recommending a guy who maintained their vehicles), the mechanic was
indeed competent, and he diagnosed the alternator misbehavior. Four hours
later, with an alternator ordered in from 60 miles away, the car was running
again.

Subarus of that era were known to have alternator problems, as later
acknowledged by Subaru USA. Mine was a Canadian Subaru (built on the same
assembly line in Indiana as the US ones) but Subaru Canada didn't
acknowledge this alternator problem. They finally acknowledged the problem
about a year and a half after Subaru USA did. Subaru Canada then compensated
me for the alternator, but not for the ruined battery. The second battery
died seven years later, so it probably hadn't been significantly damaged by
the more brief misbehavior on the second day the way the first battery had
been damaged.

One of the symptoms that the mechanic along US 395 observed was that
although the alternator output voltage was reading only a bit lower than
normal at idle speeds, making the engine run at maybe 1500 or 2000 rpm
caused the voltage to *drop* rather than increase. The faster the engine
ran, the lower the voltage became. This apparently can happen when one or
more diodes are failing. The new alternator had a normal output voltage at
idle, increasing as the engine speed was increased. Pushing a lot of
un-rectified AC into a battery is a good way to kill it fast.

Replace the alternator before it wrecks the battery.

David
 
Bob Bailin said:
Battery should test at least 14 volts at idle. If you read 12V at idle,
your alternator is shot, despite it testing good at the local parts
store.

If the battery that's installed has a shorted cell or two, that could
certainly explain a 12V measurment with a perfectly good alternator.
 
hello good people-

after 30mi of highway driving the gages ceased to work, followed by
the engine hesitating/bucking then stalling. 20mins later she started
up & i made it home. the next day this happened three other times
while only driving several miles....



hello all!

thanks for the valuable info, i really appreciate it.

ordered a replacement alternator from advance auto yesterday & p/u
this afternoon. will install it with a new v-belt as well. i will
report back with hopefully positive results.

thanks again,
tyler
 
***UPDATE***

hi folks!

here's the latest:

installed rebuilt alternator (129.99 w/ limited lifetime replacement +
85.00 refundable core charge) and new dayco serpentine belt (14.99 w/
1yr replacement) from advance auto. belt tension falls between the
3/8"-1/2" general rule deflection. i would appreciate it if anyone
could enlighten me on the sube specs for proper belt tension.

after install i broke out the volt meter and recorded the following:

(with engine running @ 2000rpm, head/fog lights on & heater fan
blowing)
battery (+) to battery (-) = 13.37v
battery (-) to alternator (housing) = .112 & .124v
battery (+) to alternator (output terminal) = .411 & .451v

the following specs are according to the troubleshooting section in
the alternator's installation guide:

battery (+) to battery (-) between 13.0 and 15.3 volts
battery (-) to alternator (housing) reading higher than .25 volts
indicates a problem w/ the negative battery cable or connections to
frame/chassis and engine block.
battery (+) to alternator (output terminal) reading higher than 0.35
volts indicates a problem with the positive battery terminal to
alternator or fuse block connections. if the reading is higher than
0.75 volts, look for blown fuses, swollen or disconnected fusible
links, or an open wire.

so, according to their specs i'm low but ok with the battery's
readings. i've got good readings between the battery and housing, but
ungood between the battery and alternator's output terminal. i'm
curious to know how much of a difference can 0.101v really make? guess
i should have cleaned the engine ground after i cleaned the other
contact points huh? lol!

as always, any input is appreciated.

thanks and have a good evening people!
tyler
 
Bob said:
Battery should test at least 14 volts at idle. If you read 12V at idle,
your alternator is shot, despite it testing good at the local parts store.

My alternator failed in August, the first replacement was bad, too.
The 2nd replacement was ok. Both the original and the 1st replacement
tested just fine at the local Auto Zone, and the guy followed the test
procedure precisely.

When the system voltage drops below 11.5 volts, everything starts
acting weird, starting with the instrument cluster & radio. The best
thing to is to shut off everything electrical, including the headlights
if possible, and limp home fast as possible. With a strong enough
battery, there's enough reserve to restart a warm engine after a short
recovery period.

Clean the battery posts and cables, making sure to check for crap
under the plastic shields. The ends are easily replaceable if they're
badly corroded. Also check the B+ connection on the back of the
alternator for a good connection.

If, after cleaning, the voltage measured at idle at the battery is still
less than 14V, replace the alternator.

Bob
Hi,
Tests fine when cold. Goes bad when gewtting hot. Typical heat related
problem. Sounds like alternator is going South, alright!
 
leftoverair said:
***UPDATE***

hi folks!

here's the latest:

installed rebuilt alternator (129.99 w/ limited lifetime replacement +
85.00 refundable core charge) and new dayco serpentine belt (14.99 w/
1yr replacement) from advance auto. belt tension falls between the
3/8"-1/2" general rule deflection. i would appreciate it if anyone
could enlighten me on the sube specs for proper belt tension.

after install i broke out the volt meter and recorded the following:

(with engine running @ 2000rpm, head/fog lights on & heater fan
blowing)
battery (+) to battery (-) = 13.37v
battery (-) to alternator (housing) = .112 & .124v
battery (+) to alternator (output terminal) = .411 & .451v

the following specs are according to the troubleshooting section in
the alternator's installation guide:

battery (+) to battery (-) between 13.0 and 15.3 volts
battery (-) to alternator (housing) reading higher than .25 volts
indicates a problem w/ the negative battery cable or connections to
frame/chassis and engine block.
battery (+) to alternator (output terminal) reading higher than 0.35
volts indicates a problem with the positive battery terminal to
alternator or fuse block connections. if the reading is higher than
0.75 volts, look for blown fuses, swollen or disconnected fusible
links, or an open wire.

so, according to their specs i'm low but ok with the battery's
readings. i've got good readings between the battery and housing, but
ungood between the battery and alternator's output terminal. i'm
curious to know how much of a difference can 0.101v really make? guess
i should have cleaned the engine ground after i cleaned the other
contact points huh? lol!

as always, any input is appreciated.

thanks and have a good evening people!
tyler
Hi,
Real measurement of battery state is via hydrometer. Also ambient temp
is a factor. Sounds alright to me.
 
leftoverair said:
***UPDATE***

hi folks!

here's the latest:

installed rebuilt alternator (129.99 w/ limited lifetime replacement +
85.00 refundable core charge) and new dayco serpentine belt (14.99 w/
1yr replacement) from advance auto. belt tension falls between the
3/8"-1/2" general rule deflection. i would appreciate it if anyone
could enlighten me on the sube specs for proper belt tension.

after install i broke out the volt meter and recorded the following:

(with engine running @ 2000rpm, head/fog lights on & heater fan
blowing)
battery (+) to battery (-) = 13.37v
battery (-) to alternator (housing) = .112 & .124v
battery (+) to alternator (output terminal) = .411 & .451v

the following specs are according to the troubleshooting section in
the alternator's installation guide:

battery (+) to battery (-) between 13.0 and 15.3 volts
battery (-) to alternator (housing) reading higher than .25 volts
indicates a problem w/ the negative battery cable or connections to
frame/chassis and engine block.
battery (+) to alternator (output terminal) reading higher than 0.35
volts indicates a problem with the positive battery terminal to
alternator or fuse block connections. if the reading is higher than
0.75 volts, look for blown fuses, swollen or disconnected fusible
links, or an open wire.

so, according to their specs i'm low but ok with the battery's
readings. i've got good readings between the battery and housing, but
ungood between the battery and alternator's output terminal. i'm
curious to know how much of a difference can 0.101v really make? guess
i should have cleaned the engine ground after i cleaned the other
contact points huh? lol!

as always, any input is appreciated.

thanks and have a good evening people!
tyler

As another poster mentioned, check the output voltage at the
battery at 2000 rpms. It should be at least 14.5V with all those
accessories turned on. If not, I would consider trying another
alternator from advance auto. One quick check to make is
whether the alternator is getting hot to the touch as it runs
(not from engine heat).

Also check the voltage between the alternator output terminal
and the battery (-) terminal. If it's significantly higher than
the reading across the battery posts, you have significant
resistance between the alternator and the battery that needs to
be cleaned up.
 
I think you guys are off base chasing the alternator.
Cars run fine off batteries. They don't need an alternator, until the
battery loses it's charge.

If your gages cease to work, the battery would have to be dead and the
alternator would have to be dead, if you are going to chase the alternator.
She restarted after twenty minutes, which some batteries will do, but none
would last long enough to get home without the alternator helping out.
Especially with all those accessories.
I haven't messed with these newer Subs, so can't be much help on the real
problem, but I really don't think it's the alternator, which the new one
they just put in, also sorta indicates, don't it?


Bob Noble
http://www.sonic.net/bnoble
 
hello good people-

after 30mi of highway driving the gages ceased to work, followed by
the engine hesitating/bucking then stalling. 20mins later she started
up & i made it home. the next day this happened three other times
while only driving several miles.

here's the low down:
-old battery was tested at 12v during idle w/ no load. (haven't tested
new battery)
-alternator tested at 15v at local auto parts store.
-fusible link is still flexible. (not sure what reading i should be
getting with volt meter)

aside from checking/cleaning ground wire on the engine, i'm not sure
what else to do.

i would really appreciate input from the gurus out there.

thanks!



hello all!

just to follow up:

everything is as it should be with "ole reliable"- the alternator took
care of the problem, now she's good as new.
thanks again for the insight, it is appreciated!

tyler
97 subaru legacy outback 154,351 (quiet & strong!)
 

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