97 Legacy Wagon. Cant open rear hatch!!!

S

slakka

Dear N-G

In re above header, got a feeling this is answerable from someone
here please?

Any suggestions guys?



Thanks in advance!!
 
slakka said:
Dear N-G

In re above header, got a feeling this is answerable from someone
here please?

Any suggestions guys?



Thanks in advance!!

You've got corrosion in the latch parts...
you'll have to remove the plastic panel to *really* fix it.
Unfortunately, it's awfully hard to do that if you can't get the hatch
open...

Catch 22

What works most of the time:
(don't spray any lubestuff in yet)
If the latch handle is stuck in the "pulled" position, carefully (but
forcefully) whack the hatch with your forearm a few times to try to free
it up and back to the rest position. Sometimes you can "drop-sit" it
with your butt and get better results.

If that doesn't do it, proceed to spraying the latch handle hingepin and
the holes sparingly with some spray lube. WD40 may work, but I've had
better luck with Tri-Flow (or similar Teflon stuff) or PbBlaster.

Let it sit for a couple of hours.

Wiggle the latch handle back and forth a few times. You may get lucky
and it freed up and the hatch opens. If not, repeat the arm/butt
smacking, try the latch handle, wiggle the latch handle again.

"Rinse/repeat/lather". It may take a few tries and shots of lube.

If that doesn't work, take it to a body shop. They'll probably go at it
thru the inside panel from inside the car, so be prepared to unload the
"junk in the trunk" the hard way. They'll probably fix it as well while
they are inside there. They probably won't have to to replace anything
unless the parts are actually rusting away.

If you do get it open, remove the plastic panel and lube all the latch
pieces. Get some rags and hand cleaner, coz it's gonna get greasy!

Don't use the "thin" spray lubes from above, those were intended to soak
in and free things up. Use (sparingly) a spray lithium grease, or most
any thicker motorcycle spray chain lube like BelRay or "chain wax"

A small can of that should be less than $10.


Work the latch pieces back and forth repeatedly to spread the lube. Be
sure to push the "claws" of the latch closed as well and lube them.
Wipe off the excess.


"Been dere, dun dat"
 
You've got corrosion in the latch parts...
you'll have to remove the plastic panel to *really* fix it.
Unfortunately, it's awfully hard to do that if you can't get the hatch
open...

Catch 22

What works most of the time:
(don't spray any lubestuff in yet)
If the latch handle is stuck in the "pulled" position, carefully (but
forcefully) whack the hatch with your forearm a few times to try to free
it up and back to the rest position. Sometimes you can "drop-sit" it
with your butt and get better results.

If that doesn't do it, proceed to spraying the latch handle hingepin and
the holes sparingly with some spray lube. WD40 may work, but I've had
better luck with Tri-Flow (or similar Teflon stuff) or PbBlaster.

Let it sit for a couple of hours.

Wiggle the latch handle back and forth a few times. You may get lucky
and it freed up and the hatch opens. If not, repeat the arm/butt
smacking, try the latch handle, wiggle the latch handle again.

"Rinse/repeat/lather". It may take a few tries and shots of lube.

If that doesn't work, take it to a body shop. They'll probably go at it
thru the inside panel from inside the car, so be prepared to unload the
"junk in the trunk" the hard way. They'll probably fix it as well while
they are inside there. They probably won't have to to replace anything
unless the parts are actually rusting away.

If you do get it open, remove the plastic panel and lube all the latch
pieces. Get some rags and hand cleaner, coz it's gonna get greasy!

Don't use the "thin" spray lubes from above, those were intended to soak
in and free things up. Use (sparingly) a spray lithium grease, or most
any thicker motorcycle spray chain lube like BelRay or "chain wax"

A small can of that should be less than $10.

Work the latch pieces back and forth repeatedly to spread the lube. Be
sure to push the "claws" of the latch closed as well and lube them.
Wipe off the excess.

"Been dere, dun dat"

I just whaled on it with the wd-40

Thank you and keep u posted
 
I just whaled on it with the wd-40

Thank you and keep u posted

One other tip that always works for me is to turn the key all the way
back to the locked position while pressing the latch handle toward the
car, then move back to the unlock position and it will unlock. Instead
of whacking the hatch.
 
One other tip that always works for me is to turn the key all the way
back to the locked position while pressing the latch handle toward the
car, then move back to the unlock position and it will unlock. Instead
of whacking the hatch.

Your trick works on my wife's '97 Outback Sport (Impreza). Her problem
is the link between the lock and the latch. I lubed hers, but that
problem creeps up every so often.

It didn't work on my '00 Outback Limited (Legacy). The problem was just
surface corrosion on all the latch pieces and lack of lube. Relubing
fixed mine.

PS... I didn't whack the latch, I was whacking the whole hatch. You
can't really whack the latch on the Legacy body (unless the latch on the
'98 is different). It's behind the panel above the license plate.

The reason for the arm whack or the butt drop was to spread the impact
out so as not to dent the sheetmetal.
 
Your trick works on my wife's '97 Outback Sport (Impreza). Her problem
is the link between the lock and the latch. I lubed hers, but that
problem creeps up every so often.

It didn't work on my '00 Outback Limited (Legacy). The problem was just
surface corrosion on all the latch pieces and lack of lube. Relubing
fixed mine.

PS... I didn't whack the latch, I was whacking the whole hatch. You
can't really whack the latch on the Legacy body (unless the latch on the
'98 is different). It's behind the panel above the license plate.

The reason for the arm whack or the butt drop was to spread the impact
out so as not to dent the sheetmetal.

Wow it worked, the wd40 coating. Thanks!!!
 
slakka said:
Wow it worked, the wd40 coating. Thanks!!!

Now you get to tear the hatch apart to *really* fix it <g>

You'll be re-doing the WD40 about every 3-6 months the way it is now.

FWIW, this is a fairly common problem on older Soobs.
 
Wow it worked, the wd40 coating. Thanks!!!

WD40 is mostly Stoddard Solvent. It does have a lubricant in it but
will not last long. After cleaning/freeing the mechanism, try to
follow-up with a more durable lubricant.
 
Dear N-G

 In re above header, got a feeling this is answerable from someone
here please?

 Any suggestions guys?

 Thanks in advance!!

I just noticed this post after fixing my own 1999 with a new part.
Learn from my experience.

When the easy lubrication trick finally fails, see my post of today.
I took out the mechanism, whereupon I saw where I might have lubed it
at a deeper place. Unfortunately, I had already bought a replacement
part. Replacement worked, but it cost me
$202.

Uncle Ben
 

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