94 Legacy w/brake, spring problems

[Brownie]

New to this group. Minimal mechanical savvy. I have a 94 Legacy and
was told I had a broken spring by the shop that replaced my muffler.
Took it to a recommended suspension shop and they told me that to
replace both springs and struts it would run me about $1,000. Since
I'm considering a new car, I went for a second opinion to see if this
could be fixed more inexpensively. Took it to a Monroe shop (probably
wrong move). They gave me cost similar to first quote but when I told
them I only planned to have the car for 6 more months, they said I
could live with the springs as they were but they suggested new front
tires (right tire was bald) and replacing left front axle since it was
"about to brake" (cost $450). I reluctantly accepted this advice and
thought I'd save a few bucks and have a workable, safe car for 6 more
months. Driving away after the axle was replaced, the brakes didn't
work (had to press all the way down to floor and pump to get the car to
stop.) Took it back immediately and they said the axle and wheel
replacement had "nothing to do with the brakes" and that the brakes
were "soft" when I came in (they certainly weren't). After
complaining, they took the tires off and ran some tests and said I had
a stuck caliper "someone did a "shoddy" work w/ my brake job". They
fooled around a bit with things and appeared to "unstick" the caliper
for me. I took a test drive and things seemed o.k. but as I was
driving home and had to come to a full stop, the brakes were making
strange pingin noises and felt spongy. Now I'm $750 in the hole with
scarey brake problems (and still need springs). I'm resigned to a new
car at this point, but want to make sure the Monroe shop owns up to the
brake problem. Advice for me?

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

New to this group. Minimal mechanical savvy. I have a 94 Legacy and
was told I had a broken spring by the shop that replaced my muffler.
Took it to a recommended suspension shop and they told me that to
replace both springs and struts it would run me about $1,000. Since
I'm considering a new car, I went for a second opinion to see if this
could be fixed more inexpensively. Took it to a Monroe shop (probably
wrong move). They gave me cost similar to first quote but when I told
them I only planned to have the car for 6 more months, they said I
could live with the springs as they were but they suggested new front
tires (right tire was bald) and replacing left front axle since it was
"about to brake" (cost $450). I reluctantly accepted this advice and
thought I'd save a few bucks and have a workable, safe car for 6 more
months. Driving away after the axle was replaced, the brakes didn't
work (had to press all the way down to floor and pump to get the car to
stop.) Took it back immediately and they said the axle and wheel
replacement had "nothing to do with the brakes" and that the brakes
were "soft" when I came in (they certainly weren't). After
complaining, they took the tires off and ran some tests and said I had
a stuck caliper "someone did a "shoddy" work w/ my brake job". They
fooled around a bit with things and appeared to "unstick" the caliper
for me. I took a test drive and things seemed o.k. but as I was
driving home and had to come to a full stop, the brakes were making
strange pingin noises and felt spongy. Now I'm $750 in the hole with
scarey brake problems (and still need springs). I'm resigned to a new
car at this point, but want to make sure the Monroe shop owns up to the
brake problem. Advice for me?

Why are you selling the car ? It sounds like a competent mechanic could
get it in good running condition for the same cost as - what - 3-4-5 car
loan payments? You may not recoup all the cost - but folks don't want to
buy used cars with broken springs and bad brakes. Get it fixed up, tuned
up, all the maintanence done a nd drive it for 6 months and if the car
still doesn't meet your needs, well - it'l be running well and you'll
have recent service receipts to show the next owner.

cn; fix it and keep it

Carl
1 Lucky Texan

 

[Brownie]

Thanks for the response Carl. Car has 129K miles and certainly has
some miles left to it (especially now w/ new tires and muffler.) I
also had some other work done recently.

Do you think the axle/wheel fix caused the brake problem? If so, what
is needed to fix it? Should I bring it back to the shop that did the
work and see if they can fix it correctly?

Is it ok to drive on a broken spring for 6 more months? I drive about
1.2K miles/months with frequent trips up to VT from Boston. The spring
shop said it shouldn't be driven. Monroe said it was ok for awhile.
Who's correct?

Is the broken spring the cause of the bald tire on that side? I
understand it could be alignment but they said they couldn't align
until springs are fixed.
What should a spring job cost?
Can anyone recommend a competent, honest mechanic near Boston?

Still not sure that I want to sink $1K more on top of the $750 already
put into it. Retail / trade-in value wouldn't be more than $2K and not
sure what the market would be for an old car like this. I'm thinking of
buying from an individual seller so wouldn't be able to trade-in and
thought I'd just donate to charity.

Thanks in advance for more advice.

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

Thanks for the response Carl. Car has 129K miles and certainly has
some miles left to it (especially now w/ new tires and muffler.) I
also had some other work done recently.

Do you think the axle/wheel fix caused the brake problem? If so, what
is needed to fix it? Should I bring it back to the shop that did the
work and see if they can fix it correctly?

Is it ok to drive on a broken spring for 6 more months? I drive about
1.2K miles/months with frequent trips up to VT from Boston. The spring
shop said it shouldn't be driven. Monroe said it was ok for awhile.
Who's correct?

Is the broken spring the cause of the bald tire on that side? I
understand it could be alignment but they said they couldn't align
until springs are fixed.
What should a spring job cost?
Can anyone recommend a competent, honest mechanic near Boston?

Still not sure that I want to sink $1K more on top of the $750 already
put into it. Retail / trade-in value wouldn't be more than $2K and not
sure what the market would be for an old car like this. I'm thinking of
buying from an individual seller so wouldn't be able to trade-in and
thought I'd just donate to charity.

Thanks in advance for more advice.

Someone here or possibly at www.usmb.net could refer you to a mechanic
in the boston area. To answer some of your questions, likely NOT a good
idea to drive the kind of mileage your speak of on a broken spring. It
will eat tires (this could lead to center differential destruction), is
dangerous in emergency maneuvers too. probably put the strut at a less
than desirable spot on the valving - I dunno. Aftermarket springs are
available or junkyard likely OK. I'd advise changing both fronts as a
pair (manadtory for new springs) for certain. If keepin the car, I'd buy
springs AND struts.

As far as the trade value being low - that (to me at least) is less of
an issue than could you get as good a car, with so many new parts and
recent service, for 2k + 1k + 750 ? (The 750 is arguably not part of the
equation.) In other words, what's to prevent the next used car from
costing as much or more in the first year? I suppose swapping in one
spring from a junkyard and getting the brakes and a front end alignment
would be the minimum to safely get you thru 6 months without destroying
your tires and still feel good about trading it selling it or donating
it.(btw - I've donated 2 cars and a boat to charity - I commend you)

Carl

 

[johninKY]

Very good chance when the front axle was replaced whoever did it
disconnected the brake line at the caliper. this introduced air in the
system and you end up with mushy brakes. Is this a FWd or AWD Legacy?
Bad idea to just replace 2 tires if AWD. Did a front or rear coil spring
break? Just about any used Legacy or Outbac or WRX coil spring can be
used to replace what you now have. WRX springs up to around 2004 models
work fairly well. The front end will end up about 1" higher and the rear
about 1" lower but these springs can be purchased for around $50 or less
on a handful of Subaru forums. I have 2 front coil springs from my 95
Legacy just taking up space in the garage you can have for just postage if
you want them.

 

[johninKY]

Do you need front or rear coil springs? Asking because I found a complete
set (struts/coils/top hats) of used rear turbo Legacy struts on another
forum for sale for $80 obo.

 

[Brownie]

Thanks John. It's the front I need. I have AWD. Let me think about
your kind offer. I'd need to replace struts along with the springs
though, right? The ride is pretty rough right now - on front and back
end it seems. I think I'm leaning towards going the new, used car
route to save on the hassle (as it's hard to find the time to deal with
the fixes with my job and living in the city) and also to have a nicer
ride on the long trips I've been taking lately. Looking at Outback or
another Legacy wagon, AWD under 45K miles. Wondering if the LL Bean
series with 3.0 liter engine is that much better over the 2.5 liter?
I've seen a few of them out there similar in price as the non special
series. I read somewhere that there is not much difference in mileage
which is hard to believe. I'm getting quite an education with these
recent repairs which is enlightening. Thanks.

 

[Brownie]

One more thing about my brake problem. Someone told me the problem may
be caused because the axle they used didn't have a tone ring? The car
is back at the Monroe shop to check out. Figure if they get that fixed
with no extra cost, it's only suspension to worry about...

 

[johninKY]

I really think the brakes need bled. The "tone ring" thing sounds like
something found on models with ABS. I don't think you have ABS. The ABS
system does use a ring but it has nothing to do with the CV axle. If you
decide to repair this problem probably should replace both front struts
because the one with the broken coil spring has taken a real beating. Stay
away from 1996 to 2000 Outbacks with the 2.5 engines because that run has a
history of head gasket failures. Really should also post this over on
www.usmb.net. Couple of regulars/honest guys over there in your area
that could easily repair your problems. My offer for the front coils
still stands if you decide you want them.

 

[Brownie]

Yes, I do have ABS actually. The brakes aren't soft now and seem to be
responsive but when I'm at idle with foot on brake, they start
crunching and making strange noises. Would this be an air problem or
ABS? If I decide to fix front suspension, I'll inquire over on
usmb.net for a mechanic and take you up on your front spring offer for
sure. Thanks much for all the valuable advice. And thanks for info on
steering clear of 2000's - there were two that I was considering. Is
there much difference between Legacy's and Outbacks aside from clerance
and trim? In your experience are leased cars more beat on than
privately owned? What's the difference w/Sport models mechanically?
Are they just smaller? Nice to have some knowledge from experienced
people so I can make a smart buying decision!

 

[johninKY]

I don't know beans about ABS but only because you heard noises when the car
is at stand still, my guess is you have an ABS problem. The ABS it would
seem is causing the calipers to pulsate for some reason. The Outback has
a different suspension compared to the Legacy. Stands an inch or so
higher. Bumper and foglights are different. At least up to the year 2000
the Legacy had only the 2.2 engine and the Outback came only with the 2.5.
2.2 is an excellent engine. Not so for the first generation 2.5. Don't
know jack about leased cars or Sport models.