92 Loyal wagon i have had it with it

[Marty Mcfly]

I have a loyal wagon the front passenger side hub has been replaced 4
times aready with the same problem the splines are chewed out anyone have
any use for parts from this vehicle or want to purchase it as is reply in
group i will email you back

 

[johninKY]

Just curious but was the axle nut torqued to something like 150 pounds
everytime the hub was replaced?

 

[Marty Mcfly]

Just curious but was the axle nut torqued to something like 150 pounds
everytime the hub was replaced?

i did not have a torque gauge so i can not answer how much it had on it.
it was as tight as i gould get it.the bolts had jumped threads and loosened
one flew off while driving I bought extra cone, and flat washers as well
as bolt because it chewed them pretty bad the bolts would jump threads.

 

[schema]

On the axle nut there is a flange that you need to indent with a hammer and
chisel to keep the axle nut secure. Did you do that. A properly secured
axle nut will not jump the theads..

 

[Rick Courtright]

On the axle nut there is a flange that you need to indent with a hammer and
chisel to keep the axle nut secure. Did you do that. A properly secured
axle nut will not jump the theads..

And, if it's the style that uses the indented flange nut, that nut
should be replaced each time one takes it off for best results (yeah, I
know, a lot of people skimp and don't do it!) My '90 Loyale uses a
castellated nut with cotter pin (the pin should be replaced each time,
too) so I don't know what style's on the '92.

Another possibility is the actual threads on the stub axle were damaged
(partially stripped, rusted, worn cuz someone DIDN'T torque the nut
properly at one time?) which makes it impossible for the nut to hold
torque. And a torque wrench isn't THAT expensive compared to damaged
parts, and safety problems, from inadequate torque. 147 ft/lbs, which is
the minimum my book calls for, is a pretty fair amount of torque,
applied easily only with a goodly sized breaker bar or torque wrench. I
seriously doubt I could come close with a regular sized ratchet or
wrench.

Sounds to me like a rather minor problem to diagnose and cure, worth
investigating, rather than getting rid of the car.

Rick

 

[johninKY]

Those axle nuts are a bear to remove. 1/2" drive stuff just won't do as
the breaker bar and/or socket will break before the nut loosens. (Wonder
how I know this?) I use a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar and 5 feet of
pipe as a cheater bar to remove/torque that nut. An impact wrench will
alos do the job. Point is it takes a lot of torque to keep everything in
place. You're eating those hubs because the axle nut is loose enough that
the axle walks in the hub.

 

[Marty Mcfly]

Those axle nuts are a bear to remove. 1/2" drive stuff just won't do
as the breaker bar and/or socket will break before the nut loosens.
(Wonder how I know this?) I use a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar
and 5 feet of pipe as a cheater bar to remove/torque that nut. An
impact wrench will alos do the job. Point is it takes a lot of torque
to keep everything in place. You're eating those hubs because the
axle nut is loose enough that the axle walks in the hub.

thank you all for your comments and advice though i have done much of
what was said save a few things. it has to be replaced again the first
time i did it i followed the book instructions. I used a big cresent
wrench and a 4 foot bar with all 300 pounds of me torqing on it. I
constantly checked it for play and any noies i heard i check it
completely the cotter pin in place and not any disernable play in the
wheel yet still it chewed the hub 3 mothes later it needed to be
replaced again the second time i was more scrutinizing i put lock tight
on the thread greased the hub and put my self on top of the cheater bar
and agian in 3 months needed to be replaced.

i do not want to fix it again. it is repairable but i dont want
to do it .