2002 WRX - engine sounds like a diesel one

D

dundo

Just recently I started to notice loud ticking sound from the engine and
it doesn't stop for the first 10 minutes of driving. Add additional
couple of minutes on it because I never start to drive before the engine
is slightly warmed-up. It's hard to describe this sound as 'ticking' only
because it's really loud, almost like a diesel engine. Car's with about
19000 miles on it. Regular services were always done on schedule. Last
service and oil check was done at 17500 miles. Can't tell there's any
change in performance when driving.

Anything to be worried about?
 
Just recently I started to notice loud ticking sound from the engine and
it doesn't stop for the first 10 minutes of driving. Add additional
couple of minutes on it because I never start to drive before the engine
is slightly warmed-up. It's hard to describe this sound as 'ticking' only
because it's really loud, almost like a diesel engine. Car's with about
19000 miles on it. Regular services were always done on schedule. Last
service and oil check was done at 17500 miles. Can't tell there's any
change in performance when driving.

Anything to be worried about?

A coupe of thoughts here: It could be an exhaust leak. These often
quiet down considerably after the engine gets hot. It's easy enough
to put the car on ramps and crawl underneath and tighten the nuts
which hold the header pipes to the heads. If an exhaust leak has a
ticking sound, it's usually an individual exhaust port that's
leaking. It could also be a cracked pipe.
It could also be a valve that's somehow gotten loose. I think these
are the removeable shim type adjusters, though not sure. Is this
still under warranty??

An additional OT comment: I read about a study a long time ago, I
think it was done by Ford, that indicated that ring wear was about
800% greater during cold engine operation than during hot operation.
This was due to 1) The extra fuel being delivered during cold running
would wash the oil off of the cylinder walls. 2) The cylinder walls,
when hot would cause any fuel landing on them to instantly flash into
vapor. When cold, condition #1 would be made that much worse.
In the days fo carburators, most chokes would open even though the
engine wasn't warming up properly and the engine would run crappy
and/or stall out. But nowadays the coolant temp sensor will cause the
"correct" amount of fuel to be injected for any given engine temp.
I had a cousin who used to start his car and go back inside to have a
last cup of coffee. The car sat and idled for 5 - 10 minutes 5 days a
week (this was in mild San Diego). At 60k miles his rings were shot
and the Nissan was burning a lot of oil. My personal strategy is to
let oil pressure build (10 seconds) then put it into gear and gently
drive until I see the temp guage start to move. Even under a light
load the engine will warm up much faster.
 
There was a group of the early 2002's that had questionable timing belt
tensioners, your local service department may know more.
 

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