2001 Forester CV Axle Repair / Replacement

[DoctorZoch]

I have a 2001 Forester and noticed that the front, passenger side, inboard
CV joint boot is leaking. Grease from inside the boot has been flung onto
the nearby exhaust components. The burning grease odor prompted me to
investigate.

With my research so far, it seems replacement of the entire CV drive axle
might be the way to go rather than trying to replace the boot with a 'clam
shell' replacement boot. I've found a schematic of the CV axle and it
appears the ends are splined onto the transmission stub and at the wheel
hub. I'm looking for shop procedures for removal/replacement or
first-hand experience. Can anybody help?

 

[Edward Hayes]

I changed out both of my inner boots on my 2000 Forester. The cost of
2 inner boots, new axel nuts, new roll pins, oem grease packs and
metal straps was about 120 bucks. The metal straps are a pita without
a strap tool however. I think I used a very excellent procedure I
found on the www.endwrench.com site. The procedure is complete with
pictures. Not to bad a job IF you review the article careful to be
certain you have the correct size roll pin punche, #150 lb torque
wrench for the axel nuts etc. ed

 

[S]

Hi Doc!

I have a 2001 Forester and noticed that the front, passenger side, inboard
CV joint boot is leaking.

Unless there are a lot of miles on the car, or the axle is making
noise, I'd be tempted to just replace the boot. Use an OEM boot rather
than the "split" aftermarket item, they never seem to last. Probably a
good idea to replace both boots while you're at it.

You will need:
1/2 inch impact wrench with 32mm (? whatever fits the axle nut), 19mm,
and 14mm sockets, a 3/16 pin punch and hammer, a "hook" tool or a
small standard screwdriver, a large pry bar, a medium-sized external
snap-ring tool, new boots (or a new axle), and a buncha grease.

Put front end on jack stands, remove wheel, remove "Y" exhaust pipe
(Necessary for access on R. side, unnecessary for L. side. Watch that
you don't damage the O2 sensor wires), and drive the retaining pin
from the axle. Use the impact to remove the axle nut, and the castle
nut from the tie-rod end. Re-install the castle nut til the top of the
nut is flush with the stud and give it a sharp wack with a hammer to
loosen the end. Remove the tie-rod end. Remove the bolt that clamps
the bottom of the hub to the lower ball joint, and use the pry bar to
separate the hub from the ball joint.

At this point, you should be able to remove the axle easily by
separating it from the transmission stub, and then sliding the outer
end out of the hub. Reassembly is the reverse of the above. Note that
the stub axle, and the DOJ housing have one side of the pin hole
chamfered. Align these parts so that the chamfered sides are in the
same orientation, and insert the pin from that side as well. Torque
the axle nut to 125-150ftlb, and the remaining fasteners to a
reasonable level. Re-do the "staking" on the axle nut (shoulder of nut
driven into slot on axle).

Either install a new (reman) axle, or replace the boot(s). To replace
a boot, you must disassemble the axle. Loosen the clamps on the inner
joint (Double Offset Joint, DOJ), slide the boot back, and use the
hook tool to remove the retaining ring just inside the lip of the DOJ.
Slide the shaft with the "spider" assy. attached free of the DOJ
housing. Remove the snap-ring holding the spider to the shaft, and
remove the spider (note orientation). From here, boot replacement is
pretty straight forward. pack the joint(s) with plenty of grease
before re-assembly.

Hope this is helpful.

ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101