1995 1997 rear diff compatibility

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by In2hoppn, Aug 2, 2011.

  1. In2hoppn

    In2hoppn Guest

    Wondering if anyone knows... will the rear differential from 1997 Legacy
    wagon LS be the same as 1995 wagon LS? Both are automatic transmission.
    I'm hoping to get the opportunity to find number on each of them, but was
    hoping someone might just know if they are the same or different, including
    gear ratios.
    In2hoppn, Aug 2, 2011
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  2. In2hoppn

    AS Guest

    Check the part numbers here:

    opposedforces dot com / parts/ of course, no spaces.

    Good luck,

    AS, Aug 6, 2011
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  3. In2hoppn

    In2hoppn Guest

    Thanks tin_man
    Haven't had chance to get any numbers, but drilling through the site seems
    to show no difference.
    Nice website! Was able to look at many parts that may be different through
    those few years.
    Very helpful.
    Now, to hijack my own thread...
    This 97 was a great running car with 300K miles on her. Sold it to a woman
    for less than I had into it, a few days later the small bypass hose off the
    waterpump sprung a pee hole leak. (should have replaced that hose when I did
    waterpump and timing belt! but it looked ok). It was a record hot day. The
    woman said it started running strange and she saw the temp pinned on H.
    Kept going (including up a long steep hill) for about 2 miles, then calls me
    (while still driving) complaining of it knocking. Finally decided to try to
    pull into the next gas station, didn't quite make it because it just
    wouldn't run any longer. Totally COOKED or what??? I should have just
    stabbed it with a fork, but I replaced the hose and thermostat, filled the
    coolant, and did an oil change (because it did start and run fine by the
    time I got to it with truck and trailer to haul it). Then it ran and drove
    fine for 2 days. Then started intermittently overheating / blowing the head
    gasket now of course. Would anyone trust doing headgaskets on a motor that
    was run THAT hot??? Just wondering, as the body on car is pretty beat. But
    it ran and drove so nice and all the suspension, drive train, wheel
    bearings, automatic trans., brakes, steering,... all excellent condition!
    Still drove and rode like new. I've never done headgaskets on one, so it
    could be good experience. But I have to wonder about everything else from
    valves to rings getting so hot! Yet it still runs fine. But is sure got as
    hot as any engine could possibly ever get, period. Think I can convert it
    to an aircooled ATV 4 wheeler rig? I have torch, plasma cutter, sawzall,
    mig welder,... if I remove the radiator and condenser (ice cold ac by the
    way), will the fans blow enough air on the motor to keep it cool? : ) Maybe
    reverse the AC compressor so the condenser becomes the evaporator. Then it
    will blow ice cold air on the engine??? : ) ... oh yeah, among my other
    tools... I have plenty of duct tape. Or, just run it without any cooling
    system. HOW HOT CAN AN ENGINE ACTUALLY GET??? Not any hotter than it's
    been : ).
    In2hoppn, Aug 6, 2011
  4. In2hoppn

    AS Guest

    Sorry to hear about that. It is not your fault that the hose ruptured.
    Unless you offered a warranty, buyers of used cars are buying a "used

    As far as your question, I would probably fix the head gaskets. If you
    have a straight edge as long as the heads in the car, you can check
    using it and a feeler gauge, to see if the head needs resurfacing, once
    it is down and clean. To resurface a head here in FL, you should expect
    to pay something like $100. The subbie has two. I would expect many
    seals in the engine to be cooked too.

    Good luck,

    AS, Aug 8, 2011
  5. In2hoppn

    In2hoppn Guest

    Yeah, I've made it abundantly clear that she should have pulled over right
    away! She knows it. Yet, I'm a part-time mechanic self employed and NOT a
    car dealer. And I have to kick myself in the ass for not replacing old
    hoses. It was a $3 item that lead to disaster! I looked into the "fix and
    flip" business years ago, only to learn you can't fix them and sell them and
    make money. And I was never willing to unload junk onto people because...
    well... people are ignorant. I always have a small fleet of my own vehicle
    on the road and when someone needs something and I'm ready to part with
    something, I just try to get out what I have into it. And it's almost
    always to a friend or friend of a friend. Now I've been trying desperately
    to get her into something else and can't come up with anything. LOL, she
    just needs something cheap and dependable (and non-smoker interior). Double
    LOL. That's what EVERYONE needs, and that's exactly what NOBODY sells,
    trades, or lets get impounded! With so many now not buying new and next
    level replacing good used with the new buyer's trade, as it always used to
    be... and it's been bad for so long... there's nothing out there cheap
    private sale (scrap prices going way up didn't help, nor the clunker
    program) that doesn't need time and money sunk into it. And the dealers???
    Last time I went to a dealer auction in my area they were bidding way higher
    on risky stuff then I would have ever dreamed. Then most the stuff on the
    lots have serious problems. The warrantees they offer are a joke. Covers
    the bizarre stuff maybe, but not the typical stuff... with a payment more
    expensive per month than "I" would ever pay... I really don't want to see
    her signed into something she than can't afford to fix!

    Anyway, back to "skubi" : ) The body is dented with rust holes shabbily
    patched over and more rust about to become holes. Over 300k on the clock.
    Also, it has the classic torque bind in turns via the transmission. Not a
    real problem there, since I wired a switch on the dashboard from the
    diagnostic fuse under the hood. Switch is labeled FWD in the normal
    position, and 4 LOCK in the up position. Loved it that way! Front wheel
    drive is fine all the time, and when I flip the switch, it will plow the
    front bumper through over a foot of snow! But technically, it's not right.
    It was an $800 car (what I had into it all total), and until it got cooked,
    was a much better car than what's out there for sale for twice to three
    times that amount for sure. But now, it sounds like a lot of work to do all
    the seals, too. Then I would wonder about valve springs, rings, and
    whatever else may have just gotten way too hot. On the other hand, I've
    seen a write-up online showing head gaskets being done while engine still in
    the car... I could just do those and the front seals, and hope it doesn't
    start puking oil out the rear main next. For now, at least it yard drives
    until I rob any part off it. I suppose I should put a pressure test on the
    radiator and confirm it's headgasket. Right now, it acts like the waterpump
    isn't pumping at all. Which I suspect is because it can't pump exhaust
    gasses! A LOT of stuff on it I can use on my 95, including the rear struts.
    But to keep it on wheels means needing a second work area (out in the sun
    probably) to do the swap so it ends up with my old struts back in it.
    Double the work vs buyng new struts. Hmmmm... maybe I'll advertise some
    parts. I think the rear propeller shaft would sell for 300 at a bone yard.
    Any idea how many different years and models THAT fits?? : ) If I can sell
    that or the rear diff... then I can yank the rear struts and whatever else
    and have a ramp truck "drag" it onboard and take it away! Yaaaaaaaaaaay!!
    In2hoppn, Aug 8, 2011
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